Mount Alderson attempt, Mount Carthew III



January 1, 2016
 
Mountain height:  2630 m
Elevation gain:     Who knows?
Roundtrip time:    Loooooong!!

Solo snowshoe/scramble.
 
Mounts Alderson and Carthew have always been special to me, as they were my first ascents in Waterton; the start of a deep and continuing love affair with the southern Canadian and northern American Rockies - Waterton, The Castle and eventually Glacier National Park in Montana. Back in 2004, I distinctly remember my wide-eyed, open-mouthed reaction when I crested Carthew Summit to the outrageously stunning view of Mount Alderson. The colours were unlike anything I had seen in the more northern sections of the Rockies. 
 
So what’s the point in doing a repeat ascent when all those phenomenal colours are covered thoroughly in a blanket of snow? I’ll let the photos of the trip explain that and then each can make their own decision as to whether they feel it’s a worthwhile winter/spring ascent.
 
Almost needless to say, I was alone throughout this trip (New Year’s Day is NOT primetime for Alderson/Carthew ascents!) and broke trail from beginning to end. Fortunately the snowpack was firm and postholing not an issue for the most part. What could have been an issue was potential avalanche conditions when ascending the steep slopes to reach the Carthew/Alderson col (Carthew Summit). Again I lucked out here and enjoyed stable snow conditions all day. 

My luck ran out on Mount Alderson. I didn’t expect to run into any problems on this easy summer scramble, but as a winter trip it proved to be considerably more challenging and dangerous. A few hundred vertical metres from the summit, I backed down and returned to the Carthew/Alderson col.
 
Thankfully, Carthew more than made up for the disappointment of failing to reach the summit of Alderson. The ascent was easy and the views stupendous, the shapely form of Mount Alderson adding considerably to the aesthetic beauty of this part of the day.
 
My summit stay wasn’t overly long, due to the shortness of the day. A long section of the descent would be done by headlamp, but I wanted to make sure I was back on my snowshoe trail before the Sun set. Therefore, once back at the false summit of Mount Carthew I headed towards Carthew Minor and then descended steep slopes back to the trail. The remainder of the descent was long but easy.
 
A wonderful and very memorable day out, to say the least!    


The obligatory stop and photo of Summit Lake



The summer trail was relatively easy to pick out in places and impossible in others



The route ahead. Carthew Minor at the far left and the false summit of Mount Carthew at the right



Looking up to Carthew Minor, one of my favourite trips in Waterton, summer or winter



Looking back along my route



Looking forward to the route ahead



Mounts Kintla (left) and Kinnerly in GNP





Finishing the steepest section of the ascent to the col



Long Knife, King Edward and Starvation in the distance



One of my favourite views contrasts the gentle curves of Akamina Ridge with the the striking form of Long Knife Peak.
Forum Peak (far left) and Carthew Minor (right) are also visible



A closer look at King Edward (left) and Starvation



View from the col






View from the summit south of the col (Carthew Summit). Mount Carthew (left) and Mount Alderson (right)



Heading up Alderson



Kintla and Kinnerly again






At the bottom of the only obstacle that I thought could be an issue









Getting closer to the summit of Alderson



Don't walk on cornices!



The end of the line. The terrain ahead was pretty dicey due to cornices and steep slopes to the right



Looking back at Alderson from the slopes of Carthew







View from the false summit of Carthew



View of Alderson from the summit of Carthew



View to the north. Waterton enthusiasts will be able to pick out Rowe, the Blakiston Horseshoe route,
Glendowan, Cloudy Ridge, Dungarvan "Rogan" ("Dunwey" /"The Horn"), Galwey, and Buchanan Ridge



The view to the southeast into Glacier National Park



Mount Cleveland


  
A winter/summer comparison. The terrific photo on the right was graciously shared with me by Steve Patitas



The last rays of light, as I head towards Carthew Minor, before descending slopes to the left - very steep!!

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