Mount Oberlin

Mount Clements



July 24, 2018

 
Mountain heights:       2670 m, 2494 m
Total elevation gain:   approx. 1200 m

Roundtrip time:           approx 9.5 hours
 
Scrambling with Raff.
 
Searching for clear skies anywhere (forest fire smoke free, as well as cloud free) Raff and I headed south, for a long overdue trip in Glacier National Park, Montana. We didn’t have an objective in mind but settled on one of the few mountains in the Logan Pass area that neither of us had attempted – Mount Clements.
 
Like trips around Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, Alberta, the crux of an attempt of any peak around Logan Pass, Montana is finding a parking spot. We ended up parking some distance down the road, requiring a short uphill hike along the busy road to make it to Logan Pass. The second hiccup of the day (a far more significant one) was arriving at the trailhead to find that the trail beyond Hidden Lake overlook was closed. That ruled out an attempt of Mount Clements via its west ridge – or did it?
 
Talking to a park official we found out that Mount Oberlin was still open for business and when we proposed a route going to the Clements/Oberlin col and then around the north side of Clements to the Clements/Canon col, he simply replied “give it a go” – game on!
 
The short hike to the col, passing the east side of Clements was Wonderful, with a capital “W”! Clements, as I’ve alluded to many times over the years, is simply one of the most photogenic and strikingly beautiful mountains in the Rockies. It is impossible to take a bad photo of this peak from any angle. We arrived at the Clements/Oberlin col in short order, hoping to spot an easy route to the Clements/Canon col that didn’t involve a huge elevation loss – one of those classic Glacier National Park goat trails straight across the north face would have been awesome!
 
The bad news was that no goat trail existed (at least no trail that a human would go near!) and the elevation loss to the valley below looked to be fairly severe. The good news – at least that route appeared to be straightforward. We decided to go for it, but not before running up Oberlin first.    
 
Mount Oberlin is described by Gordon Edwards as the shortest and easiest ascent in the park. Luckily that doesn’t mean boring or not worthwhile. In fact I found the ascent of Oberlin from the col to be thoroughly engaging and very scenic. We didn’t stay at the summit long – with a big elevation loss ahead of us and then having to regain that elevation on return, time was of the essence.   
 
The elevation loss down to the valley turned out to be about 350 vertical metres – not awful, but not great either! We then traversed the very interesting north side of Clements, a small glacier still clinging on to dear life at its base. Easy snow slopes led to the Clements/Canon col and the expected magnificent view of Hidden Lake and surrounding mountains. 

The fun then begins! Although the west ridge is the easiest way up Clements, the route is not without its challenges. Travel on the actual ridge is minimal. Most of it occurs on either side on the mountain (both equally precipitous) and there are definitely a few exposed sections. Thankfully the magnificent goats of Glaciers have graciously made the most difficult parts doable. The famous traverse along the north side of the ridge was particularly spicy but quite manageable (unless you slipped and plummeted to your death!)

Needless to say, the summit panorama did not disappoint in the least – nothing in the Logan Pass ever does! After a long summit stay we retraced our route back to the Clements/Cannon col, the exposed traverse feeling much easier. We were now faced with a dilemma – add another 350 m of elevation gain by returning the way we came, or use the regular return route that would involve crossing about 1 km of closed trail with minimal elevation gain. Now, I’m a very strict “rule follower” so I’ll let you decide which route we took!

Glacier National Park continues to offer superb trips up superb mountains – a totally awesome day out!       



Mount Clements. As stated, one of the most photogenic mountains in the Rockies.



The great trail to the Clements/Oberlin col



Typical colourful and pleasant scenery characteristic in all parts of GNP



No shortage of red argillite here:)



Snow remains well in July at this high elevation



Perhaps one of the builders of the Clements goat trail?!



He/she didn't seem at all fazed by our presence and did not budge as we passed by



Raff checks out Oberlin, from the Clements/Oberlin col



Trying to spot a goat trail across the north face of Clements. Couldn't see one.



Looking down the to valley we would soon descend to. Cannon Mountain at the left -
Cannon has arguably the best summit view of any mountain in the area 
C



More red rock and Raff, as we head up Oberlin



Easy but fun terrain



Summit view of Pollock, Siyeh, Piegan, and Going To The Sun Mountain. The very popular Highline Trail below.



Cannon Mountain (left) and Heaven's Peak (right)



Mount Gould (left) and Bishop's Cap (right)



Raff descends to valley



Checking out the glacier on the north side of Clements and the route to the col. 
The snow was very supportive and made for easy travel




Looking back at the glacier. A few crevasses are visible.



Raff leads the way



And up we go. Permanent snowfield or glacier? Very hard to tell here



The view that awaits at the Clements/Cannon col



The beginning of the west ridge route starts of the south side of the ridge



Raff on the ridge, looking at the continuation of the route



A more comprehensive view of the stunning area



The best view is always in the direction of Hidden Lake



The trail on the south side



Looking back at the trail. Mild exposure here, but nothing compared to what's to come



Raff starts the exposed traverse on the north side of the mountain



Raff is at a point where a slip would be very bad!



Raff is all smiles now that we are onto easier terrain



Another traverse of the south side is required



Raff takes the final few steps to the summit



Summit view to the east...



...to Hidden Lake



Gunsight Mountain and the Sperry Glacier



Bishop's Cap



Logan Pass, far below



Going To The Sun Mountain



Pollack and Piegan



Raff approaches the exposed north side traverse on return



Easy does it



Spot Raff on the trail



Raff finishes the north side traverse in brilliant sunshine!



And back to the south side



Here come the plethora of photos of Hidden Lake - there are Simply Irresistible!!



Red argillite, Raff and Reynolds (add Raff's red helmet for more unwarranted alliteration!)









Bearhat Mountain started our love affair with GNP, back in 2008



One more look at the glorious sight



Mount Reynolds - now that's a goat trail!



Same as above, with my favourite type of rock!



One more look at Reynolds

The End
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