Cougar Peak III – November 18, 2007

Mountain height:           2643 m
Elevation gain:              1281 m
Ascent time:                  5:50
Descent time:                4:20

Scrambling with Mark.

It appeared that we would spend a third straight weekend in brutally cold conditions due to high winds and so we chose to make a third attempt at Bob Spirko’s Cougar Peak. The long approach up Cougar Creek would keep us out of the winds for the beginning and end of the trip and we were hoping to be shielded from the wind by a ridge throughout most of the actual ascent. The first part of the plan worked out very well, but as soon as we got above the tree line, the wind unleashed its fury on us. Actually it was not half as bad as it could have been, had we tried the west ridge of any other mountain, but the wind was still bitterly cold.

Also, in my absent-mindedness I neglected to bring Bob’s route description and we had trouble picking out the suggested line of ascent. We ended up taking an ascent to the left of the recommended line and found the terrain to be fairly challenging. The minimal snow cover was far more of a hindrance than help. No snow at all or way more snow would have been the preference. We even took out the rope for one section, though in retrospect it was unnecessary.

As mentioned, the temperature was pretty darn cold and grew continually colder with increased elevation. Ascending the steep gully wearing thick winter mitts was not fun at times. Our summit stay was far too short. It was a little frustrating to not be able to enjoy the interesting summit view, however, getting out of the cold as quickly as possible was the primary order a business.

For descent, we took the other gully. This was not easy either, with a thin layer of snow hiding smooth and steep slabs. Lower down the snow did help and thankfully the wind died down.

While it was nice to finally reach the summit after two failed attempts, the brutally cold conditions did detract a little from the outing.   

Looking up the ascent slopes

Higher up

An interesting unnamed peak to the northeast

Mark comes up the gully

Not enough snow

Looking northwest to the snow-covered summit of Charles Stewart and an unnamed peak
 in the foreground; the left end of the unnamed peak is the one we called "Suicide Peak"

At the col

Looking west

Mark slogs up the final few metres to the ridge

Same as above

Approaching the summit cairn

Trying to look warm

The precipitous east side of the mountain; Mount Fable at the distant left

On descent

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