Elpoca Mountain attempt – July 14, 2007           

Round trip time: 11:30

Scrambling and alpine climbing with Mark.

Mark and I spent much of this trip beating ourselves over the head for taking everything with us except for the one item we really needed – crampons. The rest of the time we simply took in some of the best mountain scenery we’ve seen in a while. Elpoca is a beautifully striking mountain from every angle.

Armed with an excellent route description by Orvel Miskiw, we hiked past Elbow Lake and then up towards the wonderful form of Elpoca Tower . We could already see that the ascent gully was choked with snow. Therefore, the plan was to kick-step up the snow until it became too steep or too hard to kick-step into and then move to the left side of the gully where hopefully we could scramble up bare rock to the ridge. Kick-stepping didn’t take us too far, as the snow was hard and the grade steep. The rock was definitely a better choice and provided a steep, but enjoyable scramble to the ridge. 

The view from the ridge was outstanding: a bunch of 11,000er’s and The Kananaskis Lakes to the west, peaks of the Elbow area to the northeast, the serrated Opal Range to the north, and the shapely forms of Tombstone Mountain (North) and Mount Rae nearby. Looking down on lowly Gap and Mountain and Wintour was also enjoyable.

Unfortunately, our route had taken us to the south side of a significant pinnacle when the gully would have taken us to the north side. We tried several routes to circumvent the pinnacle, but to no avail. Happy to see all the amazing scenery and views, but bitterly disappointed to be denied the summit, we retreated.          

The northern section of Mount Rae reflected in the northern section of Elbow Lake

Mark attempts to jump across a washed out section of the trail......he didn't make it

The west side of Elpoca Mountain; the pinnacle on the right is called Elpoca Tower; 
the summit is to the left of the Tower

Same as above

Approaching the snowy ascent gully

Same as above

In the ascent gully 

Off the snow and onto the rock; mostly moderate to difficult scrambling

Searching for a route around a steep rockband

More of the ascent; the correct gully is the one to my right 

Mark takes a look at Mount Rae and the Rae Glacier

At the ridge, with the pinnacle that stopped us to the right

Looking west to Mount King George

The summit; we should have been down on the brown scree 

Another view to the west; if you look carefully, you can pick out King George, Sir Douglas, and Assiniboine

Looking northeast into the Elbow Valley area; Banded Peak is left of centre

Searching for a route around the pinnacle

......but not that way!

Mark rests on our highpoint of the day to the south

Gap Mountain and the Kananaskis Lakes

The jagged south ridge of Elpoca

Same as above and Mount Rae to the left

Searching for an alternate route down

Preparing to descend the way we came         

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