Mount Gloria


July 29, 2018
 
Mountain height:  2908 m
Elevation gain:     1400 m
Roundtrip time:    9:50
 
Scrambling with Matt Hobbs, Doug Lutz, and Roland Roesler.
 
An invitation from Matthew Hobbs to attempt an ascent of Mount Gloria was simply an opportunity I could not pass up on. Matt and I had tried to plan a trip for some time, but our schedules had failed to align. Finally those schedules did match up and Matt proposed a number of tasty objectives. Given its proximity to Mount Assiniboine, the most appealing to both of us was Mount Gloria. To add to the appeal, this would also be a chance to do a trip with famed scrambler Doug Lutz, whom I’d also been in contact with for some time. Completing our “Fearsome Foursome” was Matt’s colleague, Dr. Roland Roesler.
 
Matt very graciously offered to drive – not a short jaunt, at four hours one way. Matt had also planned the entire route, based on the views he and Matt Clay saw from Mount Alcantara, 2 years earlier. This route would take us directly to the highest point of the Mount Gloria, as opposed to the lower summit to the east that Rick Collier had reached – Collier’s trip report being the only resource anyone could find on the somewhat obscure and elusive mountain.   
 
We decided a long but direct bushwhack to the ascent valley would be preferable a more circuitous hike along the Marvel Pass trail and then a potentially long bushwhack to that same location. Doug led this part of the trip and did so with impressive ferocity! We could barely keep up with him.      
 
A steep but straightforward ascent alongside a wide gully then ensued. Throughout, the stunning form of Eon Mountain towered over us, keeping the group thoroughly engrossed. A minor section of scrambling followed, up some of the most interesting rock I’d ever seen. Flecks of a shiny rock (maybe calcite, quartz, or mica) gave the appearance that the rock was full of shards of glass. The rock was also very solid and wonderful to scramble up.
 
We finally arrived in the upper valley and were all thrilled to see this beautifully barren and awe-inspiring landscape. Eon continued to impress – in fact, the northeast profile of the mountain is about as aesthetically pleasing as any mountain I’ve ever seen. Also pleasing was more gently graded trek towards Mount Gloria.
 
Much discussion followed, as we tried to reconcile the route up. A potential route directly to the ridge appeared to be too steep and chossy and so we stuck with Matt’s original line, which also appeared steep and chossy, but perhaps a little less so.
 
Further up the valley Doug and I decided to forge on ahead – I am far more the tortoise than the hare these days! We went directly to the ascent gully, which didn’t look too bad at this point, and started up. I was very wrong about the “not too bad” – it was perhaps the steepest, loosest, and nastiest gully I’ve ever ascended. We ascended on opposite sides of the gully to minimize danger from potentially deadly rockslides. We also noticed that Matt and Roland had decided to go directly to the Collier summit – a very wise choice given what Doug and I were struggling up.
 
Nearing the top of the gully and in order to get out of the “death-trap”, Doug veered off to the left, onto 4th class rock. I stayed in the gully and topped out to a wonderful, but somewhat hazy view of the glacier on the north side of the mountain. A little route-finding and slightly exposed scrambling and Doug and I were reunited for the final few steps to the summit. And what amazing steps those were! Definitely a case of déjà vu for me, fondly recalling the sudden and shockingly amazing view of Mount Assiniboine, upon gaining the ridge, on a most memorable trip up Eon Mountain with Mark in 2005 (the trip report for which has sadly been lost forever).  Gloria provided exactly the same experience. With two steps up, Assiniboine (speaking of aesthetically pleasing mountains!) magically appears right in front of you. Doug had the same spontaneous reaction of awe!
 
After gawking at the stupendous view of Assiniboine, Aye, and Eon for what seemed like an eternity we settled down for a long and super interesting summit stay. Doug searched the summit cairn for a register and pulled out a very old and rusted sardine tin - inside a plastic bag containing a small folded piece of paper:  “Sept, 2nd 1934 Lillian Gest, Christian Hasler, from camp at Marvel Pass”. This certainly felt like a slice of history in Canadian Rockies mountaineering. There was no evidence of any subsequent ascents, but days following the trip, Doug’s research revealed that the sort of plastic bag the note may not have been available to the public in 1934. He therefore surmised that it was possible that another ascent party had moved the note into the bag. Certainly feasible, but strange that they would then leave no evidence that they were there. The mystery continues and may never be resolved!
 
Although somewhat marred by hazy forest fire smoke, the rest of the view was remarkable, hosting a sea of familiar peaks in almost all directions – of course the aforementioned trio of peaks blocked the view to the west and northwest. Matt and Roland had made their summit. Unfortunately the 400 odd metres that separated the two groups appeared to be quite technical, demanding a variety of climbing equipment. Instead, we just enjoyed our respective summit views and then started down.   
 
The descent was generally easy and entertaining, as we shared our Gloria summit stories, between feeble attempts to sing Laura Branigan’s version of “Gloria”. Once down to the valley, we opted to cross Aurora Creek and then bushwhack to Marvel Pass Trail and out. In the end it took no less time than the morning bushwhack, but personally this tortoise likes a good trail!
 
A truly wonderful day, in a stunning area and with three super cool guys I would scramble with any day. A huge thank you to Matt for planning the day and to Matt, Doug, and Roland for their awesome company!

Roland careful negotiates a tricky log crossing, while Doug and I place bets on if he'll make it...... he did!  (photo by Matt Hobbs)



Emerging from the thick bush (photo by Doug Lutz)



Matt weaves his way through a very interesting boulder field



Roland and I checking out the route ahead (photo by Doug Lutz)



Doug and Matt grind their way up the steep lower slopes.
Eon Mountain, above them, would become the main attraction for the next few hours
 


Doug's colourful outfit was the other attraction!
 


Speaking of colourful!



Roland takes a break by some of the super interesting rock in the upper valley
 


Onward and upward



Some pleasant scrambling on awesome rock (photo by Doug Lutz)



And there is Mount Gloria. East summit is right of centre and west summit is left of centre



Roland and the ridge that connects Gloria to Eon



Matt and I discuss ascent options (or maybe we were discussing our favourite cereal) (photo by Doug Lutz)



Still a good layer of snow in this stunning valley (photo by Doug Lutz)



The three of us take advantage of the easy travel on the hard snow (photo by Doug Lutz)



Despite the apparant scowl, I was elated to be at this point (photo by Doug Lutz)



The two main attractions



Roland rests up before he and Matt slog up to the east summit (photo by Matt Hobbs)



Another amazing view of Eon and the upper valley. Mount Alcantara at the left (photo by Matt Hobbs)



The route goes up the gully with the snow patch higher up and then left to the summit



Doug plods up the snow



Doug ascends 4th class terrain near the summit



At the top of the gully (photo by Doug Lutz)



Doug takes the final few steps to the top



Searching for the register



Here is what Doug found



And here is what was inside the ancient sardine can



Doug examines the register



The view of Eon, Aye and Assiniboine was just average!!




The new register placed by Doug (photo by Doug Lutz)



And what he wrote (photo by Doug Lutz)



I get to model a pop and sardine can, while Doug models the new register container (photo by Doug Lutz)



Looking over to the east summit, where Matt and Roland are hanging out



Meanwhile, on the east summit, Matt and Roland are looking over to us (photo by Matt Hobbs)



The Boys at the summit (photo by Matt Hobbs)



Spectacular view to the northwest from the east summit (photo by Matt Hobbs)



Equally amazing view to the northeast (photo by Matt Hobbs)



Meanwhile, back at the west summit, Doug shows off the new register



Mighty Assiniboine



A little chunk a glacier on Assiniboine



Matt and Roland are now clearly visible on the east summit



Mounts Byng and Birdwood and Matt and Roland at the lower right



Now we get to descend one of the nastiest gullies I've ever been in, so I'm all similes! (photo by Doug Lutz)



Doug comes around the corner. The gully is much steeper than it looks from here



Roland relaxing in the Sun



Matt does the same



Doug and Matt with their respective summits above



The Fearsome Foursome are reunited (photo by Doug Lutz)



Back across the snow



Matt captures the immensity of the area (photo by Matt Hobbs)



Roland is taking another break!! That's because he was significantly faster than the rest of us and had to wait for the slow-pokes!



Descending steep terrain back to Aurora Creek (photo by Doug Lutz)



The bushbash to the Marvel Pass Trail (photo by Matt Hobbs)



A tortoise on the trail (photo by Matt Hobbs)



Matt's vehicle was a welcome sight. What a day! (photo by Doug Lutz)

The End
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