Medicine Peak, Mount Henry, 

Mount Ellsworth, Appistoki Peak 

Described in J. Gordon Edwards’ A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park as “remarkably scenic”, this long loop route was just what I needed to start making up for my most sedentary Winter and Spring since the year 2000 (the year before I started going to the mountains) – lots of exercise with great views. I was also immensely looking forward to a well overdue return to Montana’s finest treasure, Glacier National Park, after an almost 11 month absence. And finally, this trip would be an opportunity for the Medicine Lake area to redeem itself after my first and somewhat disappointing trip in the area up Mount Sinopah, a year earlier (more accurately, a chance for me to stop being a big whiner when the weather doesn’t cooperate!).

Like many GNP trips this one began with a pleasant hike on a well-maintained and very popular trail – Scenic Point Ridge. Within 30 minutes of embarking, I (and everyone else on the trail) was treated to terrific views of Rising Wolf Mountain, Medicine Lake, and the northeast face of Appistoki Peak.

Another consistent feature of the park seems to be when the trail stops so does the human traffic. Not one of the fifteen odd people I saw on the trail continued the day beyond Scenic Point. Of course I had other objectives in mind and continued on towards Medicine Peak; basically a small bump at the east end of Mount Henry and hardly deserving of an official title. That opinion changed very quickly upon arriving at the summit. The ascent was very foreshortened and each time I thought I was almost there, another section of tedious terrain would appear. In truth, the terrain was not tedious at all when compared to what I ascended and descended a few days earlier on Mount Cornwall. I’ll take the flat and stable scree of GNP over the jagged and loose rubble in Kananaskis any day! So, after deciding that Medicine Peak was well-deserving of official recognition I continued on to the highest point of the day, Mount Henry.

Henry was not without its challenges. All started well, as the wide and easy ridge gave me plenty of time to absorb more exceptional views in perfect weather. Matterhorn-like Flinsch Peak and massive Mount Stimson were suddenly quite prominent. Also, it was to my sheer delight to discover that Henry is comprised almost entirely of red argillite. A few resilient snow patches and other rock colours added to the spectacle.

The challenge arose at the base of the summit block. All of a sudden the mountain seemed to drop away on both sides with a series of pinnacles leading to the summit. I should have checked it out thoroughly, as there probably was a route up or around the pinnacles. However, I immediately went with Edwards’ alternative route which involves losing a little elevation and then ascending a gully to the summit. The gully was choked with snow and rose up at a steep angle of 45 degrees. Thankfully I had brought my crampons and ice axe. The lower section of gully was straightforward, but the upper section far more intense, as I had one foot on a rock wall and the other in the snow. The snow was not as stable here, making a few moves particularly exhilarating.  Atop the gully the summit was only a few scrambling moves away.

At this point the length of the trip was starting to take its toll on me physically and the steep snow gully had mentally depleted me. Good thing a cure for both awaited at the summit. For my mental state all I needed was a good summit view and Henry supplied that in spades. The sea of peaks in almost every direction was thoroughly engrossing; all with different levels of snow cover. For my physical condition, enter year 2 of a new and somewhat unhealthy ritual: a summer, summit, soda pop (I just like the alliteration!). Chugging down an Orange Crush, while sitting on the red argillite summit was as engrossing as the view!

With renewed energy I left the summit, descending and then reascending to a highpoint along the ridge. Then began the internal debate. The suggested route continues along the ridge in a northeast direction, over to Appistoki Peak and then back to the Scenic Point Trail. However, I had Mount Ellsworth on the brain. It required a 2.4 km diversion in the opposite direction (away from the car). The elevation loss between the highpoint and Ellsworth appeared to be fairly tame and so I decided that it was now or never for Ellsworth and went for it.

Reaching the next intervening highpoint was awesome, thanks to an enormous blanket of snow clinging to the south slope of the ridge. Unfortunately I wrong about the elevation loss. It turned out to be far more significant than perceived, though at least the terrain was easy to walk on. I made in to Ellsworth in about an hour and took an extended summit break to soak in more outstanding views (Grizzly Mountain was the highlight here) and decide on my next course of action.  

This decision was a dousy and the internal debate far more engaging – much like the classic debate of what’s better: the original Star Trek or Star Trek, The Next Generation (personally I Iove them both and would never pick one over the other – like going for ice cream: chocolate or vanilla – you can’t lose with either!). Back to the mountains. Two viable options existed:

1.         1.  Return to the highpoints and then onto Appistoki and out. This was my original intention, but it required backtracking, with several big elevation gains         along the way.

2          2.  Follow the ridge down to Never Laughs Mountain and then find the Aster Park Trail back down to Medicine Lake. This was the more logical and                 appealing route. It would make the day a true circuit, with no backtracking, and the elevation gain to the summit of Never Laughs would be very small.         The big deterrent here was the large amount of snow in the valley I would have to contend with. 90% chance that the snow would be very supportive             and I could just stroll across it and find the trail.

Apparently the other 10% was just enough to let my conservative side take over and I chose the more known route, over to Appistoki. Were I to repeat the trip I would definitely go for Never Laughs instead.

As it turned out, the addition of Appistoki at day’s end was a wash – literally! Through most of the long ups and downs of the trip over, the weather was clear and stable. However, as I approached the ascent slopes of the objective, so were dark clouds from the west. I arrived at the summit in dreary conditions, reminiscent of the Sinopah ascent.  And then it started to rain.     

I left the summit almost immediately. The descent from Appistoki, back to the Scenic point Trail was not exactly easy. Avoiding the 4^th class cliffs down below took some route-finding and a few very unwelcome regains in elevation. I was quite relieved to get back to the trail and then stumble back to the car, about 11 hours after leaving.

Besides the disappointing deterioration of the weather near the end, an absolutely outstanding day of scenic ridgewalking. A highly recommended trip. 

Appistoki Peak is the first mountain you'll see up close

Two Medicine Lake with Rising Wolf Mountain towering above it

Snowy Mount Stimson and snow-free Flinsch Peak next to Rising Wolf

The view from the lower summit of Medicine Peak; Mount Henry is left of centre

To the south sit Summit Mountain (left) and Little Dog Mountain 

The other half of the loop route; Appistoki blends in at the right

View from the highest point of Medicine Peak, with most of the loop route visible

The wide ridge leading to the summit block of Mount Henry

Looking back to Medicine Peak

Modern art!

Getting closer

The summit block of Henry

The 45 degree gully leading to the summit; much steeper than it appears

At the summit of Henry

Same as above

Looking towards Mount Ellsworth (foreground, left of centre)

The two highpoints in the foreground must be reached to go to Ellsworth

Same as above; the snowfield between them really made this part of trip scenic and thoroughly enjoyable

Looking back to Henry

Looking over to Appistoki

The impressive form of Rising Wolf was a constant throughout 

At the first highpoint 

At the second highpoint, looking back to the first and Henry

The pointed mountain in the distant centre is Mount Saint Nicholas

The barren, but beautiful landscape between the second highpoint and Ellsworth

Same as above

Mount Rockwell (left) and Sinopah Mountain (the right end of Rockwell)

The summit block of Ellsworth

Part of Bearhead Mountain to the southeast

Some pinnacles near the col

Ellsworth's summit view to the northeast; Henry near the left 

The other option: Never Laughs Mountain is the low mountain at the left; 
the descent route traverses below the north face of Never Laughs

Impressive Grizzly Mountain

Saint Nicholas

Heading back the way I came

Same as above

Couldn't get enough of this scene (hence the enormous amount of photos of it!)

Back at the first highpoint

Here comes the bad weather

Appistoki

The weather was still pretty decent as I approached the summit

The end of my luck with the good weather

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