The Wall of Jericho
(attempt for me, success for Doug)





 
August 11, 2023
 
Mountain height: 2848 m (my summit at the northeast end of The Wall)
Elevation gain:    approximately 1950  m for me, much more for Doug
Round-trip time:  15:30
 
Scrambling with Doug.
 
The Wall of Jericho is one of the most visually captivating and unique mountains in the Canadian Rockies, standing as a huge, narrow, and castellated fin of rock above the stunning Skoki Lakes (Zigadenus and Myosotis). The two summits (SW and NE) appear impenetrable from all sides by non-technical means. Rick Collier and J.A. Owens had muscled their way up to the SW summit, a very exposed 5.8 climbing route with significant challenges. However, there was very little (if any) information about the NE summit, until Erik Nilsson posted a non-technical route on the Scrambling in the Canadian Rockies Facebook page.  
 
Intrigued by the possibility of reaching the summit of this beast of a mountain, Doug and I set forth to give it a go. After biking the road and hiking to Packer’s Pass, Doug took a run up Packer’s Pass Peak – a lowly but more than worthwhile objective, boasting a summit view typical of far loftier peaks. I agreed to meet Doug on the northwest ridge of the peak and started traversing that way. I had visited the summit of Packer’s about a year earlier and wanted to save energy.
 
Doug thoroughly enjoyed Packer’s and after reuniting on the ridge we continued down to the lakes, around the east end of Jericho and then up to a point close to Merlin Lake, where we could begin the ascent of Jericho.  
 
Almost right off the bat we could tell this was going to be a challenging ascent. The terrain was loose, rubbly, unstable, and steeper than it looked. Still, Doug led the way, expertly picking the easiest line over the unpleasantries underfoot. Eventually we arrived at the weakness that leads up the upper ramp and the summit block. Doug went first and it didn’t look easy – loose rock, atop hard steep dirt with lots of rockfall. He got by the tricky section, announcing the next part looked easier, but I was already in retreat mode. This terrain was at the high end of my comfortable level, and I suspected it would get worse before it got better. I told Doug I was not going up and would wait for him at the bottom of the slope I was presently on. We wished each other well and off we went.
 
I tried to find a spot down below where I could monitor Doug’s progress, but to no avail. For quite a while he was nowhere to be seen. Then I saw and heard him, right by the summit block. This was great news and I hollered back so he knew I had heard him. Given the amount of time required for Doug to summit and then return, I decided to run up to the highpoint of the Jericho ridge at the far northeast end. The ascent appeared to be straightforward, and the summit would probably grant me a pretty decent view. Also, I was sure I could be back to the waiting spot before Doug returned.
 
 
Two errors on my part were made here: 1. I severely underestimated how much time it would take me to ascend the route; 2. I assumed that Doug could hear me when I was hollering back at him.

Reaching the summit took twice as long as predicted, due to the incredibly tedious terrain (the views were fantastic, mind you). And perhaps because of Doug’s high position compared to mine and the physics of sound, I could hear him but he could not hear me. As such, whenever I heard him yell, I would yell back assuming he would know I was somewhere close by, if not at the meeting place. By the time Doug had descended most of his route neither of us could hear each other at all. Doug assumed I had started the return trip to the parking lot and he started doing the same, somewhat perplexed in my decision to leave without him. As luck would have it our respective descent routes met up not too far from the meeting place. Phew! In retrospect, we should have formulated a contingency plan in case I decided to explore – definitely an unforced error on my part!
 
Once reunited, the remainder of the return trip went well, and we were able to share our respective ascent stories – Doug’s was far more interesting and intense than mine! I was exhausted by the time we reached Deception Pass, but Doug seemed to be ready to run a marathon! Doug’s boundless energy is equaled only by his amazing scrambling prowess. We arrived back at the parking lot around 10 pm.

As always it was a joy to spend the day with Doug – an individual whose humility and positive energy are wonderful sources of inspiration for me. I would have liked to get to the summit of Jericho, but it was not meant to be. I have never regretted a decision to “turn tail and run” and this day was no exception. A huge congratulations to Doug for achieving the summit of this rarely ascended mountain and also a thank you to Erik for his invaluable route information.



Doug bikes the approach



The obligatory photo of the first good view of Richardson, Pika, and Ptarmigan



Speaking of Pikas - Doug gets a great shot of this little guy (photo by Doug)



Pointing out the route Mark and I took up Ptarmigan in 2022 (photo by Doug)



The obligatory shot of Ptarmigan Lake



Heading up to Packer's Pass (photo by Doug)



Good view of Ptarmigan Lake, Heather Ridge (just left of centre), and Redoubt Mountain



The southeast side of Ptarmigan always commands some attention



Doug powers up the trail



Almost at the pass. Packer's Pass Peak in front.



Doug's view of the Ptarmigan Lake, Redoubt Lake, and Redoubt Mountain from the southwest ridge of Packer's (photo by Doug)



My view of Doug's as he ascends the ridge



Close-up (with some light refraction)



Doug's summit view to the east (photo by Doug)



Doug's summit view to the west (photo by Doug)



Doug's summit selfie, with The Wall of Jericho in full view  (photo by Doug)



Doug identifies the two summits of The Wall (photo by Doug)



My view of the area from the northwest ridge



Ptarmigan's east face



There's Doug



He makes his way down the ridge



The Wall and the Skoki Lakes (Zigadenus left and Myosotis right) are spectacular from this ridge (photo by Doug)



Close-up of Myosotis (photo by Doug)



The terrain underfoot is very nice; a sharp contrast to what's ahead! (photo by Doug)



Doug spots a massive boulder that's been cleaved in two and it must be climbed!



"Mind the gap" Doug!



Success!



Doug looks like Samson here, pushing the two boulders apart



Continuing down to the lakes







Myosotis, with Skoki Mountain in the background



At the shores of Myosotis (photo by Doug)



My turn to climb a boulder (though it was hardly a metre tall!) (photo by Doug)



Disappearing into the cool, passage that grants easy access to the valley below Myosotis Lake (photo by Doug)



Hard to believe the passage goes right through this rock band (photo by Doug)



The waterfall that drains Myosotis



The Fork (photo by Doug)



This marmot was not shy at all (photo by Doug)



The long traverse across the north east side of Jericho



Castilleja Lake below the massive Merlin Peak massif



Above the headwall, Jericho, Richardson, Merlin Lake, and Merlin Peak makes their appearances (photo by Doug)



Doug starts the long journey to the base of the route up Jericho



Doug approaches a significant and striking boulder;  musta' bin one helluva crash-boom-bang when that came down!



The boulder from a different angle



Typical terrain en route to the base of the scramble (photo by Doug)



Same as above (photo by Doug)



Doug heads for a weakness in the first rock band that lines to north face



There it is



Views of the Merlin Lake area improve dramatically. The highest point seen is Merlin Peak at the far left.



Traversing to get around the next rock band



The route ahead is straightforward but on gnarly terrain



Doug approaches the tricky section to get to the ramp



I follow, with an increased level fear! (photo by Doug)



The last I would see of Doug for a while


Doug's journey to the summit of The Wall of Jericho (all photos by Doug)


The upper ramp



Zigadenus Lake



The daunting summit block. Doug tried the southeast side first.



The glaciers of Ptarmigan Peak



Scary looking things on the southeast ridge!



And the scary looking terrain of the summit block - not scrambling!



Doug did make significant progress on the southeast side before backing down



Fantastic views of Merlin Lake



Selfie from the end of progress on the southeast side



Great view of the Skoki Lakes; Packer's Pass Peak looks insignificant from here.



Success!! After backing down Doug found the easiest route on the northwest side of the summit block.



The dramatic view to the east includes the less than dramatic highpoint I reached near the centre



Great pano southwest, west, and northwest



Same to the east



Myosotis Lake looks great from here



Heading down


My journey to the summit of the northeast end of the Wall, that I'm going to call, "The Broken Fence of Jericho"


There's Doug, dwarfed by the awesome block of Jericho's highest point



Cool peak to the northeast - not sure what it is



The glaciated east side of Mount Richardson



View of the valley below from my waiting spot



The clouds lifted briefly to reveal the some of the route up Jericho



Taking one of innumerable breaks to catch my breath while grinding my way up the tedious slopes



After an inordinate amount of time ascending and side-sloping steep, unstable scree, the terrain became a little more friendly (but barely!)



The east ridge of Jericho looks challenging from here but gets even more dramatic upon reaching the ridge



Fossil Mountain to the east



On the ridge with the summit ahead



There's the dramatic view!



Glimpse of Myosotis Lake



Back to dramatic



Dramatic and a little glimpse of Zigadenus Lake



Easy terrain to the false summit



The Skoki Lakes at the left, Merlin Lake at the right, and a whole lotta' scariness in between!



Full view of the Skoki Lakes







True summit ahead



Last look at the lakes



Summit. There was a small cairn nearby.



Jericho and Richardson



Mount Balfour



Mount Hector



Molar Mountain



Looking down on the summit of Skoki Mountain



Mount Douglas



Mount St. Bride - now that's a scary mountain - the easiest route is a 5.10b climb



Part of the Ptarmigan Glacier



Views on descent



Doug!!! "Reunited and it feels so good"



Emptying my shoes of rock after a blissful reunion with Doug (photo by Doug)



Back above Castilleja Lake



Skoki Lodge (photo by Doug)



Packer's Pass Peak (blended into Ptarmaigan Peak), Ptarmigan Peak, and The Wall of Jericho



Doug takes the last fews steps to Deception Pass



Same for me (photo by Doug)



Descending from Deception Pass



Back at the west side of Ptarmigan Lake (photo by Doug)



Nothing but merciful downhill hiking and biking from here

The End

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