Mill Creek Peak
and Mill Creek Mountain
 
November 18, 2018
 
Mountain heights:  2165 m and 2250 m
Elevation gain:       approximately 1000 m 
Ascent time:          3:55 to Mill Creek Peak
Traverse time:       0:50 to Mill Creek Mountain
Descent time:        3:00
 
Scrambling with Dave McMurray.

Click here and here to see Dave's excellent reports.
 
To my delight, Dave and I were able to coordinate our schedules for another trip together. The plan for the day was to finish the job that Dave, Lance and Brad had started on Gladstone’s Toe, a month and a half earlier. However, upon arriving at the parking area and stepping out of Dave’s vehicle into another classic Southern Alberta, biting-cold wind, we decided that trying a route that involved a long, steep hike up an open ridge was going to be unpleasant at best. Dave suggested Mill Creek Peak and I was more than happy to oblige. Dave had ascended the lower peak of the double summit massif back in 2015 (Mill Creek Peak) and so the slightly higher summit to the southwest would be our primary objective. We both surmised that the wind (coming from the south) would not be an issue at all until we reached the summit or at worst the upper part of the mountain.
 
Following Mill Creek, we made quick progress to the turn off and started up the Mount Gladstone/Mill Creek Mountain valley. Our pace slowed a little here, negotiating the varying challenges of the creek. 
 
Eventually we spotted a good looking drainage and started up, hoping to reach the hanging valley between the two summits of the massif. The drainage was initially easy, Dave leading the way and making good elevation gains in a short amount of time. Higher up, however, the drainage became increasingly steep and icy – a bailout route was needed.  With a little searching across some alarmingly steep terrain, we found ourselves on the less steep (but still steep!) slopes of Mill Creek Peak. The decision was made here to ascend Mill Creek Peak and then attempt a high-level ridgewalk to the higher summit.
 
This plan generally went without a hitch. The big surprise was the wind – a wind we were expecting to avoid completely. Instead it was strong, viciously cold, and relentless. Even hugging the side of rock wall that for sure appeared to offer shelter provided none whatsoever. Nevertheless, that wasn’t about to stop us. Dave continued to lead the way, now along and up the terrific north ridge of the mountain.
 
Just before the summit, Dave scaled a very steep rock band with some pretty serious exposure on one side. I took a couple of steps up it and said “No thanks!” – good thing there was an easy route around it. Dave’s a braver man than I! After that, a short but superb ridgewalk completed the ascent to the summit of Mill Creek Peak.
 
We didn’t stay long – the higher peak calling us with a vengeance. The traverse to that summit (unofficially named “Mill Creek Mountain” by Dave) was definitely the highlight of the trip. Now afforded some reprieve from the wind, clearer skies and warmer temperatures, we were able to enjoy the scenic and easy traverse. Seeing a ton of needle-less larches in the bowl to the north definitely provided motivation to return during larch season. The snow scenery and red slopes underfoot were also a pleasant surprise.
 
Improving weather granted us an extended summit stay to take in the terrific view. Although Mill Creek Mountain is surrounded by much higher peaks, it stands in the middle of everything. In addition to great views of Victoria Peak, Prairie Bluff, Castle Peak, Windsor Mountain, and Mount Gladstone, we were also able to pick out more distant peaks such as Darrah, Loaf, Haig, and a few personal favourites of mine: Barnaby Ridge, Lys Ridge, and Frankie Peak.
 
A variety of alternate descent routes presented themselves from the top. We chose to follow the ridge back for a short distance, veer left onto the north ridge of Mill Creek Mountain, descend into the hanging valley, and follow the major drainage out.  There was still of decent amount of very steep terrain to negotiate in the drainage, but this route was generally excellent and very scenic. Dave managed to impress me again with a one-hiking pole self arrest, when he slipped down a very steep snow slope - excellent reaction time, Dave! Our only “frustration” occurred as we tried to find the once pronounced trail on the other side of the tributary – lots of ups and downs, but no trail. Eventually we conceded defeat and descended back to the tributary and then easily back to the start, once Mill Creek was reached.
 
This trip far exceeded my expectations – great scenery, interesting and varied terrain, a wonderful ridgewalk between the two summits, and excellent views from both peaks. A big thank to Dave, not only for picking the objective and his “mad” trail-breaking skills, but as always for his enthusiasm, wit, humor, engaging conversation, and genuine passion for the mountains.


Scenic approach along Mill Creek. Mill Creek Peak (MCP) straight ahead;
the peak on the right is the north ridge of Mill Creek Mountain (MCM) (photo by Dave)



A couple of potential drainages to ascend, we took the right one (photo by Dave)



Here comes winter!



Dave descends very tricky and slippery slopes to get back to the tributary



Ascending the upper section of the drainage before things got very steep (photo by Dave)



About this steep! (photo by Dave)



Dave traverses more steep slopes to get onto gentler terrain



Hooray for gentler terrain and lone, dead trees



MCP on the left and the north ridge on MCM on the right (photo by Dave)



Dave powers up the less steep (but still steep!) slopes of MCP



Another lone tree and Dave



Even here there was no reprieve from the wind (photo by Dave)



On the beautiful north ridge of MCP (photo by Dave)



Lots of cool terrain to ascend on the ridge (photo by Dave)



Dave leads the way



Approaching the crux of the ridge (photo by Dave)



Dave expertly climbs a very steep, exposed step along the ridge



I took couple of steps up, chickened out, backed down and went around.
(But at least my yellow jacket, red neck gaiter, and blue helmet look cool!) (photo by Dave)



The easier route really is easy! (photo by Dave)



Best photo of the day is by Dave, as I celebrate on the summit of MCP (photo by Dave)

 

Dave is fully layered up and ready to join me at the summit



Summit of MCP and Mount Gladstone. My hands were so cold at point I couldn't even put my sunglasses on (photo by Dave)



Dave is toasty warm. That man has great circulation!



Starting the awesome ridgewalk to MCM (right).
Windsor Mountain and Castle Peak are constant companions (photo by Dave)



Dave descends MCP



Here is where the wind was thankfully almost non-existent



Looking back at the ridge and MCP



Victoria Peak



Nicely corniced ridge and MCP



Same as above, but with Gladstone



Dave reaches a minor highpoint before the final ridgewalk to the summit



If nothing else, the wind is responsible for beautiful patterns in the snow such as these ones



Dave tackles the summit block. From afar it looked quite serious, but was in fact just a walk-up (with a little exposure)



My turn (photo by Dave)



Mount Gladstone has an amazing scree run, down red argillite slopes, when descending it



Dave gives two thumbs up at the summit. Had he been a mutant with eight thumbs, I'm sure all eight would be up!



Larry Mountain (left) and distant Mount Darrah



Close-up of Castle Peak



A couple of my Castle favourites: Loaf Mountain (flat peak near the left) and Victoria Ridge (pointy one at the right)



Colourful rock, Victoria Peak (right) and sweet Prairie Bluff! (the insignificant bump at the left)



Dave carefully descends snow slopes below the summit



The return ridgewalk was as gratifying as the ascent



Looking back at the summit of MCM



Dave reaches the highpoint. We turned north here.



I was a little behind (pretty much all day!) (photo by Dave)



Descending into the valley between the two peaks (photo by Dave)



The snow was super deep in the middle of the drainage, so we walked along the side



Dave negotiates a trickier section of the drainage. Surprisingly, there was running water here.



Dave is far below, making good progress. This was just before the "amazing one pole arrest"!



Pleasant plunge stepping (photo by Dave)



Dave admires more frozen waterfalls



Great sunset to end a great day!

The End
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