Pinnacle Mountain attempt – July 21, 2004

Mountain height: 3,067 m (10,060 feet)
Roundtrip time:   10:25

Climbing with Mark.

Following our dismal Aster Lake trip, we desperately wanted to redeem ourselves and the Grade II, 5.5 route up Pinnacle Mountain seemed like a reasonable objective….and it was….until we actually had to start the climbing part!

Upon reaching Larch Valley, we started up the deceivingly long and grueling scree slope to the Eiffel/Pinnacle col. Stunning views of the colourful and rugged walls of Eiffel and Pinnacle above us, helped to make the slog more enjoyable. At a moderate pace, it took us 2.5 hours to reach the col from the parking lot. The description's suggestion of 1.5-2 hours is a little optimistic.

At the col, we met up with Ruth and Graham, who were also heading for the summit. We ended up taking different routes – both would turn out to be the wrong way. Actually, Mark and I started up the correct ascent gully right away, but then backed down when I felt it was a little more than easy 5^th class climbing. After wasting another 45 minutes, looking for another route and then watching Graham ascent a steep rockband to the left, we decided to ascend the gully to the right of the original one. In the gully we could see a couple of rappel stations and so at least we knew we could get down easily if it was the wrong way. It took us forever to work our way to the top of the gully. The gully combined moderate scrambling with some considerably more difficult climbing sections. They were all short, but required a great deal of time and energy to ascend.

At the top of the gully, we encountered a major rappel station, where it was obvious that many people had given up and rappelled down. We ascended a scree slope, and started up another steep gully before we came to an impasse. I thought that we should have been in the next gully to the left, but after several failed attempts to find a way over there, we had to give up and rappel all the way down.

It was disappointing to have made some good progress and then to have been forced to turn around, however, it was a good experience in a wonderful area and the trip gave us some good motivation to return and try again.