Mountain height:         3155 m
Elevation gain:            1630 m
Ascent time:                8:10
Descent time:              5:40

Scrambling with Mark.

Still reeling from our 24+ hour day on Mount Murchison, 24 hours earlier, we downgraded a possible alpine climb to the scramble route up Mount Sarbach. Perhaps in our haste, we neglected to consider that Sarbach is a pretty lengthy trip in itself, and far from a pushover or an easy day.

Even the 5 km approach on the excellent Sarbach Lookout Trail was arduous for us in our present condition and we actually considered bailing on the trip. However, a break and some food was enough to get us going again. As Kane sates, the ascent is extremely scenic, though the hot, mid-August haze detracted a little from the awesome views.

We had a rope and decided to rappel the 10 m chimney – better safe than dead! The remainder of the ascent was pretty straightforward, save for the last 15 m. Throughout, views of the Sarbach Glacier were spectacular, but not as spectacular as those of the Kaufmann Glacier. With the Kaufmann Peaks, Epaulette, Chephren, White Pyramid, and Howse as a backdrop, this was by far the best view of the day, out shining the view towards Glacier Lake and the Lyells by a long shot (in my opinion, of course).  The last 15 m of the summit ridge was as exposed as Kane describes (“the exposure is unforgiving”) and we were quite happy to have a rope.

Our descent was far more interesting than the ascent. The weather had generally been good all day, except for the aforementioned haziness. As we made out way down, a major storm system moved in from the south. It was very entertaining watching the weather change so rapidly until we realized we appeared to be right in the path of the oncoming storm. We did get pounded by high winds and hail, but fortunately the lightning stayed to the east (lucky we weren’t still on Mount Murchison!)

An awesome scramble with breath-taking views – just don’t go up Mount Murchison the day before.

Mount Sarbach, as seen from the bridge across Mistaya Canyon

Mark gains the north ridge; Mount Cline in the background

The view to the northwest; Mount Outram is the peak at the left, Glacier Lake in the middle; Mount Amery to the right

Approaching the notches

Getting ready to rappel to second notch

Mark prepares to rappel

Looking back at the second notch

Mark trudges up the slopes, with massive Mount Murchison behind

White Pyramid

The Sarbach Glacier

The Kaufmann Glacier

Walking the ridge (right) to the summit block

Approaching the summit block

At the summit

Looking back across the traverse

Chephren, White Pyramid, Howse

A cloud and sun  rays

A cloud and the sun

Heading back

Same as above

Same as a bove, with a weather system approaching from the south

The five Lyells

Suddenly Chephren, White Pyramid, and Howse are enveloped by the storm

A rainbow and Murchison

Light rays on Murchison

Chephren and White Pyramid reappear

Interesting lighting conditions after the storm

Murchison in the evening light

Glacier Lake and the sky to the west

Same as above

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