Mount Shanks attempt

February 5, 2012

 
Mountain height:      2850 m (we made it to 1550 m!)
Elevation gain:         1600 m (we came up 1300 m short!)
Roundtrip time:        8:20

 
Snowshoeing with Raff (skiing).
 
Pretty crazy stats for an 8+ hour trip!
 
As one of the most statuesque peaks in the area, Raff and I surmised the view from the summit of Mount Shanks would be spectacular, especially in winter. The only thing standing between us and that view was 6 horizontal km of travel, 1600 m of elevation gain, and a tree or two….well maybe a few more than two!
 
We arrived at the trailhead to the disillusioning view of nothing – ie. we couldn’t see the objective at all due to low clouds caused by a weather inversion. Weather-wise this was hardly an issue, as we knew that completely clear skies were sitting above the clouds. Being on the summit right then and there would have being utterly surreal. But we were still at the parking lot, 1600 vertical metres below that apex – bummer!
 
Since we couldn’t see what kind of snow conditions we would be dealing with above treeline, a direct route to the summit, up west facing slopes, was out of the question. Instead we would take a very long, but gentler route via the south ridge. That entailed a roundtrip horizontal distance of approximately 32 km. Combined with significant elevation gain along the 16 km one way distance, a daunting task was suddenly upon us. Admittedly, this change of plans had my “Spider-sense” tingling already, recalling a brutally exhausting attempt of Cone Mountain, several years ago that required less horizontal and vertical gain.  
 
In retrospect, perhaps the most unfavourable turn of events occurred as we left the trailhead to discover the trail leading to the south end of the mountain had been well-broken. Had it been unbroken I’m sure the strenuous effort of forging a new trail would have turned us around within 30 minutes and we would be found something quite a bit shorter. Instead, we embarked on an easy, but long (10 km) trek around the south end of the mountain.  
 
About 3 hours in, we arrived at the far end of the south ridge and considered ascent options. The trees and deadfall looked pretty horrendous from every angle and so our only real option was to take a direct route to the nearest tree-free slope. That slope looked relatively close from our vantage point. As such, we started up with a glimmer of hope about making the summit.
 
That glimmer quickly turned into a black hole of complete and utter hopelessness! Negotiating the diabolical deadfall, covered in deep, unconsolidated snow was beyond futile. We tried every possible route and strategy to make any kind of progress towards the summit and each attempt was met with an unqualified “DENIED”!
 
About 1.5 hours after leaving the trail, I checked my GPS to see how much actual progress we had made. The good news was that we had made progress; the bad news – that progress amounted to 300 m of horizontal gain and about 100 vertical. 300 m in an hour and a half – the hair on my knuckles grows faster than that!
 
A rough calculation revealed that at our present rate we would reach the summit at 9:30 am, the next day – a total ascent time of 26 hours – no thanks!! We stopped, had a little chuckle about our present situation, and then mercifully turned around.
 
Due to clear skies, the return trip was far more scenic than I thought it would be and made our defeat bitter a tad more palatable (but just a tad!).
 
On many of my failures, I’ve experienced a strong urge to try again within a day or two of the trip. The same, unfortunately, cannot be said of Shanks – certainly a winter ascent is out of the question. Perhaps I’ll return to Shanks in my next life!



Morning cloud obliterate the view of Mount Shanks


Raff skies along the Simpson River


Still no view of the objective - it IS there!


Raff negotiates the narrow trail


The sky has cleared, but we are still very low on the mountain


Refreshing winter scenery


We travelled too far along the river, at one point, and had to backtrack a short distance


Looking up the south ridge; the highest bump is the first false summit


Raff battles his way through deep snow, deadfall, and new growth


The end of the line; Raff had just spent several minutes climbing
out of a deep tree well and we were going nowhere fast!


At least we still got to look up at the trees


Raff descends the last section of the nightmare that is the south ridge of Mount Shanks


On return, stopping to enjoy the scenery


Decent views of Shanks, through the burned trees


The moon


Colourful tree scenery


Same as above


Mount Wardle to the west


The summit of Shanks


Wardle again


Shanks again






A summit for another life

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