Mount Silverhorn

Silverhorn Mountain attempt – December 17, 2005

Mountain height:       2,911 m (9,550 ft)
Elevation gain:           approx.1,200 m (we came up 190 vertical metres short)
Roundtrip time:         7:15

Scrambling and a little mountaineering with Mark and Kevin.

Silverhorn Mountain sits between higher Mount Weed and Observation Peak , along the Icefields Parkway . Unable to find any information regarding the peak, we assumed its relative obscurity was due to the fact that it is lower than those immediately north and south. Thus, we basically decided to drive to the mountain and look a possible ascent route. After a little reconnaissance drive, a line from the highway directly to the summit appeared to be the shortest and most viable route and there also appeared to be options to traverse to the left or right skyline, should it become necessary.

All started well, as we easily ascended an avalanche slope and then through treed terrain to open slopes above. Not surprisingly, the first part of the trip was very similar to that of our attempt of Mount Weed , two weeks earlier. Above the treeline, the scenery to the west was magnificent: the moon fading behind Mount Chephren and White Pyramid, the terrifying east face of Howse Peak , and Mount Patterson and Caldron Peak further south, were all spectacular.

As we gained elevation, however, the terrain steepened and those previous options to traverse disappeared. Also, the upper rockband before the summit became increasingly more daunting and would requiring circumventing or technical climbing. Soon, the crampons and ice axes came out. For a while there did appear to be a possible scramble route up, but it too disappeared when we arrived at a very steep and exposed snow-covered section that seemingly led to two significant drop-offs that would mark the end of the line for us. With a belay, I went up to check it out, but getting back down would have required a rappel and it simply wasn’t worth the risk. We unanimously opted to retreat, enjoying an easy descent under clear skies and surrounded by fantastic scenery. I expect we’ll return in the summer months to try again.