"The Ridge" (east of Mount Lorette ) – September 8, 2007

Mountain height:           2305 m
Elevation gain:              900 m
Ascent time:                  5:35
Descent time:                1:30

Technical scrambling with Mark.

I don’t know if the term “technical scrambling” is a legitimate one, but after completing two different routes in the past two weeks that sit right on the line between technical climbing and scrambling, I’m going to use the phrase to describe a route that can be scrambled without a rope, but definitely pushes the limits of what can be called scrambling. Mount Ishbel and The Ridge both fall into that category. Those who enjoy severe exposure and exposed downclimbing would probably find these routes to be very agreeable.

We got the idea from Mike Warren and Rod McAllister, both of whom had completed the route. The amazing quality of the rock was the first aspect of the route that came as a pleasant surprise. After gaining the ridge on steep, but solid and very “grippy” limestone, a wide ridgewalk followed. Once the technical scrambling started, there was little let-up all the way to the summit. Fortunately, the scrambling was fun throughout and the good quality of the rock remained constant. This was a very good thing, as there was a significant amount of exposure on the ridge, including several short, but exposed downclimbs and one severe narrowing of the ridge, where bum-shuffling across was the only way to go.

The second surprise was the length of the ridge. One false summit was followed by another and then another – not a bad thing, as mentioned the scrambling was terrific and the ridge a very beautiful one. Like Ishbel, the hands-on scrambling was not difficult, but felt a great deal more serious with significant drop-offs on both sides of the ridge. We scrambled the first half of the ridge and then short-roped the second half, setting up some slings belays for the more exposed sections. Placing other forms of protection was never required. The weather above us held throughout the ascent, while dark clouds filled the skies to the west north, west, and south.

Of course, the reward of making the summit of The Ridge is a fast and easy descent down the gully between it and Lorette. An excellent day on an excellent route. Thanks to Mike and Rod for suggesting it.           

Mount Lorette (left) and "The Ridge" (right)

 

Gaining the ridge of "The Ridge" at the south end

 

The easy section of The Ridge

 

The scrambling begins

 

Typical terrain near the south end

 

Same as above, with Mary Barclay Mountain to the right

 

Typical scrambling

 

Mark comes up the good rock

 

A very cool rock along the ridge

 

Same as above

 

Going the wrong way

 

Looking south

 

Clouds build up to the east

 

More fun terrain to ascend on the ridge

 

One of the downclimbs

 

Mark leads the way 

 

Mark sets up a belay where the ridge narrows

 

The most exposed section on the ridge of The Ridge

 

This section wasn't too bad, but you still wouldn't want to slip down either side

 

Approaching the summit (centre)

 

Almost there

 

Mark at the summit

 

The beautiful strata of the Lorette/"Skogan"/McGillivray Range

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