Victoria Peak III
(via the northwest ridge)






July 3, 2020
 
Mountain height:         2587 m      
Total elevation gain:  1331 m
Round-trip time:         8:24
 
Scrambling with Dave and Brad.
 
Just over two months had passed since my first attempt at this route and with all the snow gone I was very excited to try again. The stars definitely seemed in alignment for the attempt as:
 
1. A perfect weather day was forecast.
2. Rob Schnell had recently completed the route and confirmed it was a moderate scramble (and also a totally awesome one at that!).
3. I would get to complete the 4 km approach on my newly purchased ebike (electric bike).
4. Dave and Brad were available and also excited to do the route.
 
After enduring a light-hearted and very humorous “ribbing” about my use of an ebike, we cycled the approach gas road (one of us with far more ease than the others!) and started up the treed slopes at the far end of the northwest ridge. In addition to making the approach almost effortless for me, the ebike provided plenty of fodder for my companion’s comedic routines – we all laughed most of the way up!     
   
Without the snow the ascent to the ridge and ridgewalk to the start of the scrambling was infinitely easier, and with clear skies infinitely more scenic. And of course, once the scrambling started, the three of us were in proverbial heaven, enjoying everything we collectively love about the mountains: the scrambling, the rock, the scenery, the company and camaraderie, the feeling of smallness amid grandeur surroundings, the appreciation of nature – its beauty and its brutality, and (for me) the oversized chocolate bar in my backpack!
     
We soon surpassed the point I had reached on my earlier attempt and continued up interesting terrain to the summit, each of us taking a slightly different route for the final push. Our summit stay was not excessively long, as we had already decided to try an alternate descent route. Having thoroughly seduced us throughout the ascent the long west ridge was not going to be denied a visit and it was clear that all three of us were smitten! The ridge would add a little extra distance, but it looked to be a straightforward route and would maximize the time we spent above treeline.
 
In short, this descent route was OUTSTANDING! (the grammatically questionable capitalization of the word hopefully conveys how outstanding it was). Endless ups and downs of fun scrambling on terrific rock (colour not quality) kept us engaged, challenged, and awed for several hours. In fact, our descent time ended up exceeding our ascent time, and we all agreed the west ridge would be an even better ascent route than the northwest ridge. Throughout, I was reminded of how honoured and blessed I feel to be able to spend a day in the mountains with Dave and Brad – two adventurous and like-minded individuals, with an intrinsic love of the mountains and not a milligram of ego between them. Thank you, my friends.     
 
Back to the trip. We soon were faced with the decision of where to leave the ridge and descend to the valley. Going all the way to the summit of Whitney Ridge was a possibility but would require about 150 m of additional elevation gain. We were all getting tired at this point and instead decided to descend treed slopes from the lowpoint of the ridge and follow the creek out. Though not a heinous route, it was far from a cakewalk and I would not use it as an ascent route in the future – better to go directly to the summit of Whitney Ridge first.
 
Eventually we arrived at the creek, hoping to find the same trail we used for the first part of the Whitney Ridge ascent. None was to be found and so a moderate bushwhack ensued. After that another round of ebike humor preceded an exhilarating bike back to the start.


 
Fantastic day and fantastic route – period! I’m already planning a return trip but in the opposite direction. Big thanks to Dave, Brad, and Victoria.    
 
Click HERE to see Dave’s excellent (and e-bike joke riddled) report!


Had to stop by Butcher Lake on the drive in to check out the objective (left) and the summits of Prairie: Storm, Sky, Fire, and Bluff



The aesthetic south side of Victoria Peak. Our ascent route would tackle the opposite side of the mountain.



Also aesthetic (and challenging) is the east face of Prairie Bluff



There's the new ebike - it's going to be a game changer for gas road approaches!
(photo by Dave)




Brad and I cycle the easy road. There's Victoria Peak ahead (photo by Dave).




Closer look at the northwest ridge of Victoria



The bushwhack after ditching our bikes. This section was brutal in April (photo by Dave).



Mount Gladstone



Mill Creek Mountain (left) and Mill Creek Peak



On the ridge and ready to rumble!



Brad and I head for the second treed section before the scrambling starts (photo by Dave)



Brad leads the way, with the interesting ridge ahead



Dave ponders existence before we start scrambling (or maybe he's just staring at Prairie Bluff, as I often do!)
 


Dave almost looks like he's floating up the mountain!



Classic Brad, smoking his pipe before the fun begins!



Dave and Prairie Bluff



Sizing up the fun ahead (photo by Dave)




Up we go (photo by Dave)



Classic Brad again - he's going straight up this challenging terrain



Dave has already circumvented the rock band and is looking down on us. I'm heading for the easy route after watching Brad go up (photo by Dave).



Big stretchy move for Brad to finish the step



Prairie Bluff was not the only mountain to ogle at - Windsor Mountain and Castle Peak are also Castle favourites
 


The fun scrambling continues (photo by Dave)







And Brad continues to pick the challenging lines (photo by Dave)



What is Dave photographing?



....me and Brad and the remainder of the route (photo by Dave)







Dave got a "bunch" of terrific flower shots throughout the trip (photo by Dave)



Dave and Brad detour over to the northeast side of the ridge. There was a very narrow, exposed ledge going across the face, however, after our Triple Divide Peak experience there was no way Dave and I were going anywhere near that ledge!


\
Instead, we would just breathe in the awesome view behind us!



At the base of the first major obstacle - my turn around point on April 25



My turn to find a route up the obstacle (photo by Dave)



The next obstacle



Brad finds an old, rusted piece of the metal - evidence of human traffic long before we got there (photo by Dave)



Another ledge, but for goats only! (photo by Dave)



Dave found a weakness in this rock band



Back on the ridge and checking out the next section of the ascent



Another detour over to the left to check out some colourful rock



This ledge would actually grant a route towards the summit, but so did the terrain on the other side. We chose the other side (photo by Dave).



The ledge was a great spot for a break



The colourful rock above (photo by Dave)



Resuming travel



Dave leads another rock step



This view is going to keep me mesmerized for some time


  
Dave and Brad tackle the steep rock band



I went around, but at least got a decent photo of Brad topping out



Still a ways to go



And still mesmerized!



Dave finds a cool little alcove in the rock face







Sections of steep scrambling for the upper section



Had to go to the right here



The small window (hole in the rock) is a feature sometimes encountered on the south face route
 


Dave (upper left) went hard right and gained the ridge via a steep couloir



Brad and I (because of my obsession with Prairie Bluff) stayed left 



At this point, we were both forced to go right



Brad picks his route



It was a steep one!



The Boys at the summit



Dave is already chowing down, getting some much needed energy for the long descent
 


Close-up of Windsor Mountain. Mostly flat Lys Ridge behind and Jake Smith Peak and Scarpe Mountain behind Lys.



Close-up of Castle Peak. The distinctive peak with the vertical east face, right of Castle, is Tombstone Mountain.



The other guys enjoying their summit stay (photo by Dave)



The Prairie's, in all their glory



Dave is keen to start the west ridge descent route



Brad stayed behind - no doubt to stare at Prairie Bluff!



The northwest ridge is the light coloured rock at the right and the long west ridge stretches from one side of the photo to the other



The view between the ridges



Brad and Dave look over to our ascent route on the northwest ridge



We've reached the point where you turn right (west) to try the west ridge or continue south to the summit of Victoria Ridge - one of the best ridge scrambles in the southern Rockies


Gladstone and the "up and down" west ridge



Looking back up to the summit and the ridge we are descending (there will be lots of that on the way down!)
 


What is Dave photographing now?



....me descending the ridge and the summit (photo by Dave)



Tons are easy downclimbing - that's why this ridge would make a great ascent route - tons of fun upclimbing!



Fun stuff! (photo by Dave)



More of the same (photo by Dave)



This ridge goes on and on and on, but who cares when the views are this good



  And of course, the views behind us are pretty darn good too



More photo magic by Dave (photo by Dave)



Rounding out another "bunch" of great photos by Dave (photo by Dave)



Brad is peering down the right side of the ridge



One of the highpoints along the Victoria Peak to Ridge traverse



 
Obviously, one of the rock bands I circumvented (I'm at the lower right), but again, this would be so much fun to upclmib (photo by Dave)



One of the more colourful sections of the ridge











More downclimbing for Dave



Approaching another "up" along the ridge







Dave takes the high road, Brad takes the low



Can't stop looking back. Boston would be disappointed!







Walking along the crest of the ridge was fantastic



Another Boston classic (the vocal harmonies are superb!)



Dave hits another highpoint



Quick food break at this highpoint. There are still several ups and downs to negotiate.



Gives me time to check out the cool rock



Careful downclimbing here (photo by Dave)



Same for Dave



Brad surveys the ridge ahead



Dave tackles yet another downclimb. Thankfully most were small and not significantly exposed.






Up again



Down again



And then across a semi-exposed section (photo by Dave)



The upcoming section of ridge was super cool (photo by Dave)



Dave leads the way



A very narrow slice of ridge. We avoided it on the right side..... (photo by Dave)



....but couldn't resist this tasty upclimb at the end



Above the upclimb the terrain continues to be interesting and challenging (photo by Dave)



Brad strolls over another highpoint, but it's not the last



Descending that one (photo by Dave)



Another perspective of the northwest ridge ascent route and Prairie Bluff



Dave and Brad hit a lowpoint...


Dave and Brad ascend to another highpoint....




....across the ridge....



...ogling at the rock...



....and down the other side (photo by Dave)



Finally, it's time to descend



Heading into the bushy section of the descent. It wasn't as bad as it looks (photo by Dave).



Down at the creek (photo by Dave)



Evil laugh, as I ponder how easy the gas road will be on my ebike! (photo by Dave)



Starting the last 4 km of a phenomenal day (photo by Dave)

The End

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