warspite

Mount Warspite

September 28, 2008

Mountain height:         2850
Elevation gain:            1160
Ascent time:                4:30
Descent time:              2:45

Scrambling (mountaineering) with Mark.

Aside from having the coolest name of any mountain in the Rockies, Mount Warspite had been on our hit list for a number of years. The first time we attempted the peak, we ended up at the summit of Mount Black Prince instead.

To avoid the frustrating grovel up to the Warspite col, described in several trip reports, we were hoping that the ascent ramp would be sufficiently covered in snow; enough to allow kick-stepping, but not so much that getting caught in an avalanche would be a concern.

Upon completing the pleasant hike to the upper cirque beneath the east face of Mount Black Prince, we got our first look at the ascent ramp and it was in fact snow-covered. From a distance, the slope looked to be fairly steep and intimidating. However, that perception changed as we approached the ramp and suddenly it looked so quite manageable. Unfortunately, that also turned about to be an illusion that was soon shattered as put on crampons and started up. The middle and upper slopes were very steep. Kane’s warnings about the mountaineering nature of this ascent when snow-covered are most accurate and informative. When he says a slip would “launch you over the cliffs”, he means it and he’s absolutely correct!

The thin layer of snow was okay for step-kicking, but the dirt underneath was rock-hard. Without crampons, an ascent of this slope would have been suicidal. Also, one more heavy snowfall will probably create serious avalanche concerns. Mark led us up the entire slope and we were both very relieved to make it to the col. Not only because the most dangerous part of the ascent was over, but also because the views at the col were splendid, especially the continuation of the “British Military” ridge towards Black Prince.

Only the first section of remaining part of the ascent provided any challenge. After that there was only fun cramponing, interspersed with sections of easy scree. Throughout, we enjoyed great scenery on the ascent slope and fantastic views in every direction. As expected, the summit view was outstanding, the highlights of which were beautiful InvincibleLake with a striking unnamed peak above it, very snowy Mounts King George and Mount Joffre, and the Haig Glacier with its surrounding peaks.

The entire descent was remarkably easy. Admittedly, I was a little anxious about descending the ramp, but even that was fast and stress-free, as we just followed our tracks down. The scenic hike back through the cirque was a perfect way to end a wonderful day out.

Mount Warspite

Heading up the ramp; it looked like it would be easy at this point, but got much steeper higher up

Almost at the col

Mark at the col, looking to the Unnamed peak between Warspite and Black Prince

Same as above

Invincible Lake and the other unnamed peak above it

Same as above, with me

Unnamed and me

Mount Joffre (left)

Approaching the upper slopes

Looking back to Unnamed; Sir Douglas just right of centre

Mark gains the upper ridge and starts towards the summit

King George

A closer look at a real King (not Elvis!)

At the summit

Mark completes the ascent

Same as above; King George and Sir Douglas at either end

Me, looking a little pasty-white at the summit (perhaps one of these weekends
we should just stay at home to practice the proper application of sunscreen!)