Wasootch Tower III

Wasootch Tower III – September 16, 2007

Mountain height:     2350 m
Elevation gain:        900 m
Roundtrip time:       9:10

Climbing with Mark and Keri.

Wasootch Tower was our first technical climb and we’d always been looking for an excuse to return to make the enjoyable ascent again. Since Keri wanted some technical climbing experience this was the perfect time to do it. The climb is very short and not technicality demanding, though the exposure in places is exhilarating.

The first time we completed the 5.5 route, in October of 2003, we did the ascent in scrambling boots, with a 50 metre rope and no protection. This time, we would return with approach shoes (I brought my rock shoes too), two 60 m ropes, and a good sized rack of rock gear (I can’t decide if that is progress or not???).

On the way up to the col, I did some exploring around an interesting rockband to the north. Initially, this provided some good difficult scrambling, but soon I was on terrain that I was nervous about being on alone and I decided to back down. Another attempt to explore the terrain was fruitless and I ended up side-sloping a fair distance to join Mark and Keri at the base of the climb.

At the col Mark and Keri changed into approach shoes and I changed into rock shoes. . The first pitch is not the most difficult, but the most sustained. I arrived at the first difficult section and remembered how 4 years ago it took me about 20 minutes to psyche myself up to step over a very exposed gap in the terrain. It didn’t take 20 minutes this time, but the exposure was still thrilling. After that, it’s pleasant climbing up a narrow chimney to a double rappel ring belay at the top. Keri came up next and she did so with speed and ease. She hardly hesitated at all before stepping across the gap and was up to the belay station in no time – very impressive. Mark then came up and continued on to lead us to the crux pitch.

This pitch is actually quite easy except for one step but short step. I went up first making it look incredibly awkward and difficult even though it wasn’t. Above the step, it’s just a difficult scramble to the ridge and I didn’t feel any need to place protection. Keri had far less trouble with the crux than I and Mark even less. We celebrated Keri’s first climb in beautifully warm weather, with clear skies above.

The descent should have been the easiest part of the day but was far from it – at least for Mark anyway. Mark rappelled down the first pitch, but the rope didn’t quite reach and so we attached the other 60 m rope to it, to reach the double rappel rings. Keri followed. Again, she did remarkably well considering this was her first alpine rappel and there was fair amount of exposure. Soon we were all at the rings and we tried to pull the rope down. It wouldn’t budge. Mark volunteered to climb up a little section of the route to try to free the rope. He did, but still the rock wouldn’t move. Eventually, Mark ended up re-climbing the entire pitch without a belay.

At the top, he found the knot attaching the two ropes had lodged itself between two rocks. As the last to rappel, I should have checked that this wouldn’t happen. At least Mark got his money’s worth by climbing most of the route twice. He rappelled down and we started pulling the rope only to have it get stuck again. Up Mark went again. This time he was able to get the knot passed all the difficulties and finally we were able to retrieve the rope.

The second rappel was the fun one, down 25 m of vertical rock. Again, Mark went first followed by Keri. This was a pretty intense rappel, but Keri made it down without a problem – well done.

A very satisfying return to a fun, little mountain and a very pleasant route. Well worth a return trip.