Wasootch Tower II

Wasootch Tower

October 18, 2003

Climbing with Mark.

It's official! Our first technical climb and after two previous attempts at this mountain, I think we deserved to finally reach the summit. The big difference was that I actually researched the mountain on the internet, and found out that there was an easy 5.4/5.5 climbing route up. At first it looked like we would suffer our third failure, as I struggled up the first section and then chickened out, when I couldn't find anywhere to place a protective sling. We wasted almost an hour when I found the section extremely difficult to downclimb without any protection.

Disappointed and dejected, we decided to try our last route on last week's failed attempt. However, on the way there I thought that a route just to the left and around the other side of the rock looked a little more promising. I started up and found it to be considerably easier, with goods foot and handholds. From there, an exposed couple of steps across a gully, and then a steep, but very narrow gully, took us to the first bolt, where I gladly clipped in our rope.

The second pitch was a little tougher, and at one point I had to step on Mark's shoulders to get up a steep section (I'm sure purists are shaking their heads!). After that section, it was only a short distance to the top, however, it was quite steep and exposed and it was more or less nervous adrenaline that propelled me to the summit.

We celebrated our milestone at the summit, under beautifully clear skies. Unfortunately, it was also extremely windy and Mark's helmet was blown off his head and down the mountain to meet its untimely demise. The descent was fantastic! Two rappels from bolts - the second one down a vertical 5.10a climbing route. One of our most rewarding days ever in the mountains!