Mount Baldy VIII - West Peak: west ridge  – April 23, 2005

Mountain height:   2,192 m (7,190 ft)
Elevation gain:      824 m
Ascent time:         3:55
Descent time:       1:50

Scrambling and climbing with Mark.

We needed something short and fast and what better mountain to provide that than good, old, reliable Mount Baldy. Having completed the Kane ascents to the north, south, and west peaks, we decided to give the west ridge of the west peak a go (this is not Kane’s alternate descent route, between the south and west peaks).

Starting from the road, just south of O’Shaughnessy Falls, we quickly found a good trail, heading towards the ridge – evidence that we were certainly not the first to try this route. The first several hundred metres of elevation were easily attained on grass and scree slopes. It was the upper ridge, however, that concerned us from the beginning. From lower down, it appeared that each steep section led to a drop-off that may require a rappel. We took along a full compliment of climbing gear to prepare for this eventuality.

Once above the treeline, the fun really started. The ridge steepened and narrowed a fair amount, making for some enjoyable hands-on scrambling. This part of the route also required a great amount of decision making. Often, the ridge would ascend steeply for a short distance, giving the appearance of a drop-off at the top. Ascending the steeper terrain was not terribly difficult, however, I, for one, was not at all confident in my ability to downclimb it, should that be necessary, or set up a rappel on the exposed ridge. Several times, we went straight up the ridge to thankfully find easier terrain at the top. At other times, we were able to bypass on the left, although, in retrospect, staying on the ridge throughout would have quite possible and provided a steep and somewhat exposed, yet thoroughly enjoyable ascent.

The crux came near the top, when the ridge further steepened and narrowed. Again, we convinced ourselves that there was a drop-off at the top and proceeded left, in search of an easier ascent route. We didn’t find one and after roping up, started up a steep ramp, alongside a vertical wall. The ramp was straightforward at the beginning, but again, steepened near the top to a grade that would have been very difficult, if not impossible, to downclimb. The fact that we couldn’t see what was at the top of the ramp (a drop-off or easier terrain) further exacerbated the tenseness of the situation. I went up slowly, placing 2 cams for protection, and was extraordinarily relieved to find a flat plateau at the top. Mark followed and we moved back onto the ridge, where, yet again, we were surprised to find out that there was no drop-off to speak of and that staying on the ridge would have been the easiest way up (difficult scrambling).

Everything after the crux was trivial and shortly after we arrived at the summit. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t fantastic and the low-lying clouds detracted from the normally terrific summit panorama.

While the ascent was challenging, rewarding, and a great deal of fun, the descent simply sucked. Like many before us, we chose to ignore Kane’s warning about a direct descent to the road and started down west-facing, rubble slopes, just north of the summit. The route down was often steep, on loose rubble, requiring enormous amounts of route-finding and detours, slow, and far from enjoyable. Eventually, we ended up traversing all the way back to the ascent route and onto more friendly terrain. That’ll teach us for not listening to The Master. I suppose that technically, there is a scramble route down, as we didn’t have to rappel or use ropes, however, it had absolutely nothing to offer and in the future, I would use Kane’s alternate descent route. Besides the descent, a thoroughly enjoyable and satisfying day and a great route to Baldy’s west peak.   

The west ridge route up the west peak of Mount Baldy, as seen from GR322538 (photo taken the following day)

Looking up at the ascent from near the bottom; the route follows the left skyline and is far steeper than it appears in the photo; the summit is actually the lowest-looking protrusion towards the right

Closing in on the upper ridge

Mark starts the moderate scrambling up good slabs

My turn up the slabs

Walking back along the ridge; the normal route up Mount Baldy to the right

More fun slab scrambling

Mark approaching the crux section

A closer look at the crux; we should have gone straight up the centre, but decided to look for an easier route to the left

Attempt number one at an easier route; I chickened out a little higher up and had to downclimb

Roped up, Mark starts the crux pitch that ascends below the vertical wall at the right and tops out where the wall and slab meet

Ascending the crux pitch; at this point the grade was quite manageable, but near the top it steepened to the point where placing protection was a good precaution

Mark comes up the crux pitch, just before it steepens 

Mark, scrambling up the final section of the upper ridge

Nearing the top of the scrambling section, with the summit to the right

Traversing over towards the summit

At the summit, with the north peak behind

Looking down one of the very steep drop-offs on the east side of the peak

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