Whirlpool Ridge

Whirlpool Ridge

October 11, 2009

Mountain height:         approx. 2600 m
Elevation gain:            approx. 1400 m
Roundtrip time:           10:50

Scrambling and some mountaineering with Mark.

I can rant and rave endlessly about the amazing and abundant visual wonders of the Rockies: red argillite, colourful lakes, waterfalls, striking peaks, awe-inspiring glaciers, and the entire winter season, to name but a few. However, none of these really compare to the best experience you can have in the mountains – to be above the clouds. This was our third (my fourth) time above the clouds and each experience has been utterly surreal and immeasurably satisfying (Loomis, Middle Kootenay Mountain, Frankie Peak).

After spending the night at The Crossing at the Saskatchewan River Crossing, we awoke to the very disappointing scene of cloud-filled skies. Thus we downgraded our original objective to something more modest – no point doing a big peak if there are no views from the summit. Whirlpool Ridge was close by and although we had passed on the trip 24 hours earlier in search of better weather further north, options at this point were pretty limited. Lacking a route description (from David Thompson Highway: A Hiking Guide), we used Bob Spirko’s account from 2008.

The weather was absolutely dismal, making it hard to enjoy any aspect of the initial ascent. In fact, I have never been as completely unmotivated in the mountains as I was for the first hour and a half of this trip. The already low and clearly defined cloud ceiling dropped even further as we slowly plodded up the lower slopes of the ridge. I wanted to go home. Even watching my hapless Rams getting slaughtered by the Minnesota Vikings would have beat this dreary drudgery.

At one point, while enjoying a fabulous view of absolutely nothing, Mark queried, “What are the chances of us getting above the clouds?” I replied “Slim”, but had that all-too famous quote, “When monkeys come flying out of my butt!” running through my head at the same time.

Eventually we did ascend into the soupiness of the clouds, where visibility dropped to about 50 metres. To add to our misery, the wind-chill was viciously cold. I can’t ever remember having icicles form on my eyebrows in early October! We continued up, for no other reason than to get some well-needed exercise (and because we were there, I suppose). Gaining the first highpoint would at least make the trip somewhat worthwhile.

Just before reaching that highpoint, a faint patch and blue sky did appear above us. With a glimmer of hope that Mark’s earlier question would have positive results we hurried to the top. I guess older brother does know best – the view was phenomenal! The tops of numerous peaks to the west and south were visible above another clearly defined cloud layer. The valleys below were swimming in dense, low cloud and the skies above, perfectly clear. A fresh and substantial layer of snow covered everything in sight. The scenery, as well as the temperature, were more reminiscent of those in January. Obviously, this more than favourable turn of events prompted us to continue the trip. The Whirlpool ridge and its summits were beautiful. Now this was better than watching the Rams lose!

As we followed the snowy ridge north, the clouds below in the valley to the west started to dissipate and the cloud ceiling to the east lowered, revealing a stunning skyline of unnamed peaks in the Ram Range. Mount Elliot eventually made an appearance, however, the two summits of Ernest Ross remained shrouded in clouds. As described in Bob’s report, most of the ridge was easy (and scenic) walking, but the parts that didn’t fit that description were quite treacherous. Long sections of unconsolidated snow on steep slabs were particularly hair-raising. Any slip down the west face could have been deadly. We opted to rope up, although it was only necessary for a few short sections.

Our luck with the ridge ran out a short distance after passing the centre peak. The ridge disappeared, leaving only steep slabs that abruptly ended and dropped off to the east. Without snow and with a good pair of very grippy boots or shoes, this section may have been possible, but was way too risky in its present condition, even with the climbing gear we had. The north summit of the ridge would have to wait.

We followed our own tracks back along the ridge for descent. Again, the traverse was replete with wonderful, wintery scenery and incredible views. The colourful rock of the ridge was also a delight.

A phenomenal day of breath-taking and ethereal beauty.

The very clearly defined lower layer of cloud