August 4, 2021
Climbing with Dan.
Two years had passed since our last technical
climb, and so this trip was long overdue. Hoping to enjoy a similar experience
to Eisenhower Tower we chose the extremely popular, 13-pitch, 5.8 sport route up
Achilles Spire, on Mount Andromache. The fully bolted route was put up by Eric Dumerac, Sid Cupido, and Chad Casey in 2012.
With cloud-free skies predicted for the day,
the only question mark was going to be would the skies be forest fire
smoke-free? Unfortunately, the answer to that question, a resounding NO! The
air was smoke-filled from beginning to end, obliterating some potentially
awesome views in most directions. The “glass half full” argument, of course,
was that the views were secondary to the climbing. And the climbing was great!
The route starts with a long (by technical
climbing standards) but fantastic approach up to the valley between Little
Hector and Mount Andromache. I had not hiked this trail since ascending Molar
Mountain in 2007, so being back here was great, even with the smoky skies. As well, the 700
or so metres of elevation gain to the base of the climb certainly provided enough
cardio for the day.
We could see there was at least one other
party already on the route, but they were well on their way up and so we traded
boots for rock shoes and started up. Like Eisenhower, we had agreed to trade
leads, but also exactly like Eisenhower, once up the first couple of pitches, I
relinquished all the lead duties to Dan. I’m simply not that strong of a
technical climber and Dan is – our day on Ancient Art will forever be one of my
fondest mountain memories.
Without going into a 13-pitch play-by-play,
suffice it to say the entire route was super interesting, with tons of variety
and fantastic rock. The crux definitely felt like 5.8, but of course Dan led it
with ease, giving me the benefit of a comfy belay!
We eventually reached the top where two
parties were waiting for us to finish. They were extremely friendly, and we had
a nice chat before they started the descent while we waited.
Interestingly, the top of the route does not
end up at the top of the mountain. It didn't take long to figure out why. The
terrain between the top of the climbing route and the top of the mountain looked
very unfriendly in places and near impossible in others. I was hoping
that an easy route around the steep walls guarding the summit would reveal
itself but no such luck. As such, we both took a short nap, rappelled the route,
and hiked out.
Of course we all could have done without the
smoke, but a super fun outing nonetheless.
A dismally smoky approach
Achilles Spire is the big guy in the middle
Bow Peak - that was a cold day!
Approaching the base of the clmb
Almost there
Looking up the first pitch of the climb
Dan is ready to go
Many of the pitches start from wide ledges
Looking up another pitch
On a smoke-free day, this view over Hector Lake and the Waputik Icefield would be fantastic. The adventure scramble, Pulpit Peak, is there somewhere.
Dan is atop one of the cooler pitches of the climb and I am elated at the proliferation of rappel rings along the route!
Another shockingly smoky view
Dan at the top of the route, with Mount Andromache looming above
At least views of Little Hector and Mount Hector were respectable
Dan takes a well deserved nap, while we wait for the other parties to rappel
The Hectors again
... and with smilin' Dan
The first of many rappels
Dan led all the rappels too
Looking back up that really cool pitch
Looking back up the general route via the left skyline
Had to get one lichen photo!
Still rapping
And still missing all the views
All done rapping and starting the hike down
Looking back up to the Spire
Hector Creek is very scenic
This sums up the views, but the climb was outstanding
The End
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