“Big Rim Ridge” attempt – December 16, 2007
Mountain height: approx 2700 m (came up about 70 vertical metres short)
Elevation gain: 900 m
Roundtrip time: 8:20
Scrambling and a little mountaineering with Mark.
I’m sure
by now my recently acquired methodology for unofficially naming unnamed peaks is
becoming all-too transparent. This little gem of a peak lies between Big Sister
and The Rimwall. We spotted it on two recent attempts of “
The first
section was as easy as predicted, although we were surprised at how slabby the
terrain was. A summer trip might yield some very enjoyable slab scrambling. At
the first highpoint, the aforementioned rockband became visible and looked quite
daunting. Initially, the plan was to circumvent the entire block by going around
the left side. That plan was quickly abandoned when the mountain ran out on the
left side. The right side yielded far better results until, once again, the
mountain just dropped away. The rock on this side was absolutely beautiful and
looked to offer some very interesting climbing.
The only
option now was to find a route up the rockface and then head straight up the
ridge. Descending the right side, Mark found a feasible route, up a narrow
crack.
Just
before we reached the summit, the ridge suddenly narrowed to an alarming degree.
Though it was not knife-edged, it was snow-covered and the drop-offs on both
sides of the ridge were severe. We continued, but soon came across terrain that
was knife-edged and very snowy. This marked the end of the line for us, as an
attempt would have required far more climbing gear than we had with us and
snow-free conditions. We backed
down, with the promise to return in Spring or Summer. Despite not making the
summit, a great day out on a surprisingly interesting and enjoyable mountain.
Early morning light over Little Lougheed
Approaching the first rockband
Mark patiently waits for the sun to emerge from the behind the clouds; unfortunately it didn't
Part of the Sundance Range
Mark assesses potential routes around the block
Looking west to Old Goat Mountain (left) and Smoat Peak (right)
Mark starts up
I follow
More of the approach to the first rockband
Trying to warm my hands
Spray Lake
Some of the cool rock on the south side of the block
Same as above
More geometrically-pleasing rock
More slabby rock
Spray Lake again
More of the impressive walls
Lots of big cracks here for climbing; Smoat Peak behind
More redundant photos, but this rock really was cool!
Mark ascends the weakness; he had to take his backpack off to squeeze into a crack to his right
Approaching the second rockband
Looking for a weakness back up to the ridge
Mark tries the north side of the same rockband
Big Sister to the north
Clouds over The Rimwall and the first peak of Lougheed
The first peak and true summit of Lougheed
Big Sister again
Back on the ridge
Things looked promising at this point
Things looked interesting at this point
A little more interesting
Very interesting; the drop on the other side of the ridge was just as severe
Same as above
The end of the line, with the summit behind
Mark takes in the interesting scenery before we start down
A last look at The Rimwall