Chief
Mountain
– June 30, 2008

Mountain height:         2767 m
Elevation gain:            1100 m
Ascent time:                6:15
Descent time:              4:20

Scrambling with Raff.

After checking out Mount Custer and finding it too snowy to attempt, Raff pulled the idea of Chief Mountain out of the bag. We had no route information, no passports or birth certificates to get across the border, and no permits to go onto the Blackfeet Indian Reserve, but decided to give the mountain a go anyway. Several RMBer’s had reached the summit in October of 2005 and so at least we knew there was a scramble route to the top. Getting into the U.S. did prove to be the crux of the trip, as the custom’s officer insisted that we needed a passport or other proof of citizenship. After giving us a stern talking to, he did let us through with just a driver’s license. 

Given that we didn’t have permission to use the approach road on the Blackfeet Reserve, we used a longer approach, hiking along Lee Ridge Trail. After fording Lee Creek, we started up towards the west side of the mountain. The approach was quite scenic, but the oppressive heat sucked the life out of me and I didn’t enjoy it as much as I should have done. However, it was certainly a treat to see mountains we had never seen before and couldn’t identify without a map. The striking, lone form of Ninaki (Squaw Mountain, as referred to by others) was quite a sight. As well, the south face of Chief Mountain was a thoroughly impressive edifice of colourfully layered rock.

A labourious slog up annoying scree slog ensued. By this time I was so wiped out I just wanted to finish reach the summit so I didn’t have to repeat the ordeal again. Raff also was feeling the strain. Thankfully, the trip suddenly improved to an alarming degree. From a distance, the rock was impressive, but up close, the near vertical strata of blocky layers were outstanding! Our motivation increased immediately, traversing beneath the fascinating rock.

We initially tried the west side of the mountain, only to arrive at a dead end (actually a drop-off of several hundred metres!). However, again the scenery was fantastic and the diversion therefore worthwhile. A quick traverse back across the face revealed a weakness in the steep walls and a possible ascent route. It was in fact the way to go and we ascended the gully with increased motivation. Not only did the rock scenery continue to improve and impress, but there was actually some very pleasant hands-on scrambling. A short ridgewalk, with a couple of notches thrown in for excitement, ended an amazing ascent.      

 








The north face of Chief Mountain from the road


A plant


The northeast face of Chief


Raff negotiates the boulder field


The colourful south face of Chief


Same as above with Raff


Raff scrambles through the first rockband


Raff at the east end of the mountain; Mount Cleveland in the distant centre


Raff again


The correct ascent gully


These three boulders reminded me of The Three Sisters


From a different angle


Raff ascends the gully


Same as above


Raff on rubble


Raff prepares to cross a small snow patch; it may not look like much from this angle, 
however, a slip here would have sent you sliding down the snow and then clean off the mountain


Raff at the west summit, with the true summit to the right


Raff negotiates the crux of the summit ridge


The blocky summit


Raff with antlers at summit


Raff downclimbs fun terrain on descent


Another look at the stunning south face


...and one more, as we leave


Ninaki

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