Cloudy Ridge – June 16, 2006

Mountain height:    2607 m
Elevation gain:        1100 m
Ascent time:           6:00
Descent time:         4:00

Scrambling with Mark.

Two of our most enjoyable ascents of 2005, were Mount Dungarvan and Glendowan, both via their south ridges. The excellent hands-on scrambling and outstanding scenery moved both trips into the top ten of all our scrambles of the past 5 years. Given the almost identical orientation of the south ridge of Cloudy Ridge and the fact that it was nicely sandwiched between its Irish cousins, we were hoping for a similar situation. Unfortunately, the hand-on scrambling was very minimal and much of it we bypassed because of brutal weather conditions. Fortunately, the scenery was terrific (although marred a little, again by the nasty weather), and the final push to the summit very interesting and rewarding. 

We started from the Red Rock Canyon parking lot, following a trail on the left side of the creek. Quickly, the trail disappeared and a miserable hour of bushwhacking and climbing over seemingly endless deadfall ensued (shades of Dungarvan all over again!). Next, we were forced to lose about 150 m of elevation, down steep, treed slopes, cross a very scenic creek at the bottom, and then trudge all the way back up to the start of the south ridge.

Though we were expecting high winds throughout (hence, our choice of a route that would be going with the wind on ascent and against it on descent), the dismally overcast skies and short, but violent periods of rain, snow and sleet, were completely unexpected. By the time we started the actual ascent, we were wearing our winter gloves and had on every layer of clothing we had brought along. Looking behind us, the summits of Mounts Blakiston and Anderson were shrouded in clouds and everything else to the west, shades of cloud white, gray and black.

As stated, the south ridge of Cloudy Ridge had only a few minor hands-on sections of scrambling, but the rock scenery, specifically the vertical south face, was entertaining. The summit block (which we didn’t know was the actual summit at the time) was very reminiscent of that of Dungarvan – a steep band of black, lichen-covered rock atop a striking band of burgundy argillite.

Soon, we hit the first major highpoint of the ridge and a terrific view of the mountain’s two summits. Here, we were surprised by two things: 1. the block we had been looking at was the first summit; 2. although the topo map indicated the second (most easterly) summit to be slightly higher, the closest (most westerly) appeared to surpass the other in height. That was fine by us because the two summits were separated by difficult terrain that clearly was not scrambling.

The traverse from the first highpoint to the summit was by far the most enjoyable part of the day. The burgundy coloured ridge was lined with interesting pinnacles and rock formations and although we continued to be pounded by a fierce west wind, the sky above us started to clear. At one point, we had to find shelter on the east side of the ridge, as a storm blew in and the wind and blowing snow threatened to knock us off the ridge. The storm quickly passed and on we went. Right before the summit, the ridge narrowed and significant vertical walls of rock reared up before us. Fortunately, after a little searching we found a good route around the summit block that led to easier terrain. We set up a couple of quick belays here, as a little snow remained on the east side of the mountain and a slip would have been very bad. We reached the summit shortly after and in very good spirits, given that during the ascent we had doubts on numerous occasions that we would make it to the top.

The summit itself was another pleasant surprise, for a day that had started off a little on the rocky side. Firstly, although the wind was howling around us, on the actual summit there was no wind to speak of – it was a most unusual phenomena. Secondly, the summit itself was a flat and grassy plateau – great for taking in the views and lounging around. Thirdly, the view was terrific and lastly, it was clear that this was, in fact, the true summit of the mountain. Even if it hadn’t been, this summit undoubtedly had a superior view to that of its easterly neighbour.

The descent was very easy, save for yet another attempt at an alternate route to avoid some of the bushwhacking and the tedious 150 m elevation gain. Once at the bottom of the south ridge, we crossed over to the south side of the creek, hoping for an easier route. The bushwhacking was actually worse here, and we ended up having to regain a huge amount of elevation in to escape the deadfall. In general, the alternate route was no better, but not much worse either. Although was actual scrambling, was somewhat of a letdown, when compared to Dungarvan and Glendowan, the overall trip was terrific.     

A quick look at Mount Galwey, on the way to the Red Rock canyon parking lot

 

On open slopes heading towards the south ridge; first highpoint is the point at the left

 

Negotiating our way around deadfall and over a stream, while losing about 150 m of elevation on ascent

 

At the scenic stream

 

Crossing the stream

 

Mark slogs up the south ridge, after losing elevation from the ridge behind

 

Trees 

 

Above the treeline, looking at the steep south side of the ridge

 

Interesting rock, but it was too windy to scramble up

 

The sky clears a little; the1st highpoint just right of centre and the summit at the left

 

Taking shelter from the wind on the south side

 

At the 1st highpoint, with the two summits of Cloudy Ridge

 



Me at the highpoint,  with our objective behind

 

Starting the scenic traverse to the summit

 

The ridge

 

Interesting pinnacles on the ridge

 

Checking the GPS, while taking shelter from a violent storm that was blowing in from the west

 

About halfway across the ridge

 

The summit block; the scramble route goes around the right side

 

Looking back to Mount Dungarvan (just left of centre)

 

The east summit of Cloudy Ridge

 

Searching for a route around the summit block

 

Mark traverses a wide ledge around the block

 

Checking out the east side of the block; no route up that way either!

 

At the summit, with Dungarvan to the right

 

At the summit, with the east summit behind

 

Looking north to the Castle area

 

 

 

Saying "Hi" to a friend in England - Jan Ridgeway (the perfect surname for someone who loves the mountains); sorry Martin, we ran out of rope when we got to the "T" and didn't want to abbreviate your name to "Mart" (guess we should have brought 60 m of rope instead of 30!)

 

(obviously not Cloudy Ridge!) 
Jan took the amazing photos (above and below) of North America's highest mountain, Mount McKinley (Denali)

 

 

 

The summit view south; Chief Mountain to the very distant left

 

Another view of the east peak of Cloudy Ridge

 

A good indication of the wind velocity on the ridge

 

Clearer skies as Mark heads back along the ridge

 

Looking back at the south face, on descent

 

More great colours on the way down

 

Mark rests before we head down to the creek for another 1.5 hours of evil bushwhacking

 

A last look at the south ridge and the summit block (left)

 

A waterfall

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