Combo
Falls, something else, Chantilly Falls attempt – January 26, 2008
Ice climbing with Mark.
Kevin
Barton, having recently completed a number of first ascent ice climbs up
Evan-Thomas Creek and being very knowledge about the area, suggested this trip
to us: Combo
Falls
followed by a short step across the creek.
Having
completed Chantilly
Falls in 2007, we hiked past it, opting to save it for last if we had the time and
energy. Combo
Falls
started off okay, but didn’t finish well. Mark led the first pitch, up very
brittle ice. Beyond that pitch, the ice disappeared under a thick layer of snow
or in fact there was no ice. We slogged our way up the gully, but found nothing
to climb. We did eventually find a very short, but steep step to ascend, but we
still remained confused as to where the rest of the ice was. I took an easy
route to get above this step and then belayed Mark up. After that, we decided to
abandon any further attempt to find ice to climb up this gully. From this
vantage point, we could at least see the other piece of ice suggested by Kevin -
“something else”. It stood across the creek.
This very
small ice climb was terrific for us. Set in a scenic little canyon only a few
minutes away from Evan–Thomas Creek, the ice that made up this step was stellar.
Again, Mark led the 10m climb. We then set up a top-rope and did the climb a
couple of times each. In truth, I could have spent all day just going up and
down that little WI2 step and had a thoroughly satisfying day (perhaps an
indicator of how high my ice-climbing ambitions go!).
On return,
we reached Chantilly
Falls
again and since there wasn’t anyone doing the climb, we decided to give it a
go. Unfortunately, our waning levels of energy, and therefore confidence,
prompted us to bail about halfway up. Once again Mark led the first pitch and
most of the second, but when he discovered the ice was very unwilling to easily
accept ice screws, we both decided that turning tail was the best option.
Approaching Combo
Falls
Mark leads the
first step
Looking down the
first pitch
Me on the first
pitch
Searching for
more ice
The only other
ice step we found
At "something
else"
Mark leads the
step
My turn
On rappel one of
my crampons came off, so I just lowered myself
Mark
rappels
Re-climbing
The last pitch
of Chantilly Falls; we backed down here
LOG