Mount Edith Cavell
–
Mountain height: 3,633 m (11,033 feet)
Elevation gain: 1,659 m
Ascent time:
Descent time:
Climbing with
Mark.
WOW!! What a
fantastic day on a fantastic mountain! Achieving this summit more than makes up
for our string of recent failures, and I’ll have to classify it as our most
satisfying and enjoyable trip to date.
It’s easy to
see why Sean Dougherty calls this route a “must-do” and also why it appears
on the list of the “50 Classic Climbs in
We started at
the very “un-alpine” time of
After ogling
the Angel Glacier for a while, with the other million people on the trail, we
made our across the moraines (there is a very nice trail to the left, which
would have been far easier), and up to the col. From there, we scrambled up the
right side of the prominent gully up to the shoulder. The scrambling here, on
solid rock with easy ledges, was great, however, the section was deceivingly
long and took far more time and effort than we anticipated. By the time we made
it to the shoulder, where the real climbing starts, it was already after
From the
shoulder, the view of the rest of the ascent was stunning and quite unnerving
for me. It looked very steep, very long, and very exposed. Fortunately, such was
not the case and though there were some steep and exposed sections, they were
short-lived. I was right about the length, however, and since we decided to rope
up and belay each other there was really nothing we could do to shorten the
ascent time.
We started up
and were immediately struck by the amazing quality of the rock. This was our
first experience on quartzite and I was flabbergasted at how easy, fun, and
pleasant it was to ascend the rock. Handholds were numerous and solid and there
were ledges everywhere for your feet. Soon we caught up to another party - David
and Jarek from Edmonton. David had already ascended the first pitch of climbing
and as Jarek started up, I asked him if he were as concerned about the time
issue, as we were – he responded with a resounding “yes”. As soon as Jarek
was 5 metres up, we started up as quickly as we could without compromising
safety (which for us means pretty darn slow!). This pitch was fun and relatively
straightforward, although our sense of urgency detracted a little from our
enjoyment of it.
After the
first pitch, a short section of 4th class climbing took us to the
second and crux pitch of the ridge. This pitch was about 30 m long and steeper
and more exposed than the first one, however, placing protection was easy and
once again, the rock was great to ascend. Shortly after, we again caught up with
David and Jarek, who told us that they were going to finish the ascent and then
descend the west ridge. We went ahead of them, but agreed to wait for them at
the summit and descend together, as our turn around time had now long passed.
The remainder
of the ascent was easy, but the terrain was more loose and we were careful not
to knock rocks down on the party below. Soon thereafter, we arrived at the
summit ridge and a twenty minute walk, over two subsidiary summits, took us to
the main summit, where a significant celebration was in order. This was definitely
our sweetest summit to date!
The summit
view, tainted a little by hazy, smoky conditions, was nevertheless, phenomenal.
Numerous peaks of the Clemenceau Icefield, Fryatt Creek area, and
At
The classic photo of Edith Cavell's East Ridge
At the col, with the ascent gully behind
Very colourful rock, enroute to the shoulder
Looking down on Angel Glacier, and Cavell Lake
At the shoulder, with the East Ridge rearing up ahead
A closer look at the East Ridge; this view was almost enough to make me turn tail and run!
Ascending steep terrain, with meadows and trails far below
Setting up some protection on more steep terrain
Almost at the top
Mark, heading up to the second summit
Mark, celebrating at the summit
My turn at the top
A slightly hazy, but nonetheless spectacular view to the south
The hazy view to the west
Mark taking a rest and a magnificent view of the Edith Cavell's north face, as seen from the west ridge
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