GR344442

GR344442 – June 26, 2005

Mountain height: 2,419 m (8,157 ft)
Elevation gain:    830 m
Ascent time:       5:35
Descent time:      2:50

Scrambling with Mark.

This seemed to be a good opportunity to see if we could connect two routes on the north end of the Mount McDougall range, we had done earlier this year – GR338442 and GR345444. This would allow for a beautifully scenic and interesting loop route, taking in a number of highpoints along the way. Probably a good thing we didn’t pick anything more ambitious, as Mark was severely under-the-weather. The crummy weather was also a factor in the day’s choice.

On March 31, I made to GR338442, before turning back because of winter-like conditions and the simple fact that the easterly traverse to the next highpoint seemed to be blocked by near vertical bands of rock and tall pinnacles. With all the snow gone, the ascent was much easier, however, far less scenic. We did deviate from the obvious route up, to do some easy climbing, but that was all too short-lived, and soon we were back on the scree gully. Higher up, I was amazed at how easy the crux(?) was without any snow (easy scrambling, if that!). I was also surprised to find that the short sling I had left around a tree, to assist me in the descent, was no longer there. Throughout, the rock scenery was, once again, impressive, but didn’t really compare visually to my “blue sky, white snow, gray rock, green tree” ascent at the end of March.

By the time we arrived at my previous highpoint (GR338442), Mark was suffering miserably and confessed to almost passing out four times. I suggested that we retreat, but he was as curious as I about a potential route to GR345555 and so he insisted we continue. Although I initially thought that the traverse would require some roped climbing, we were both happy to find that all the rockbands could be circumvented on either side or scrambled up directly (easy to moderate scrambling).

Arriving at GR344442 (2,421 m), it was simply too much to resist extending the trip to the next highpoint, that could be easily reached by heading south towards the unnamed and highest and point of the range at GR356418, a good distance away (this peak is labeled Old Baldy Mountain on the older version of the Gem-Trek, but is unnamed on the newer one). Being the next logical extension of the trip, getting a closer look at the route was definitely in order, and since it didn’t involve any significant elevation losses and gains, Mark was up for the traverse.

The short ridgewalk to GR343438 (2,401 m) was probably the best part of the trip. Although quite innocuous-looking from the start, at two points the terrain suddenly dropped off completely on the right side and the ridge narrowed to the point where caution was needed. Looking back at the tremendous vertical slabs that created these drop-offs was quite spectacular. At the highpoint, we surveyed the long ridge towards GR356418. Although the visible parts looked to be quite straightforward, the upper section was difficult to see because of the gloomy weather and the sheer distance. Attaining that summit using this ascent route would certainly be a long and grueling day.

After admiring the good view (great if it was a clear day), and an interesting double rainbow that suddenly appeared to the east of us, we decided that a further traverse was pointless for today and headed back. Instead of using the same route for descent, we chose the easy northwest scree gully that served us well on the April 9 descent. Before that, however, I quickly ran up to GR345444 again (our highpoint of April 9) to take another look, and yet again, without the snow the summit and intervening ridge was not half as eye-catching as when covered in the white stuff!

The scree gully provided a fast and entertaining descent, but from the bottom of the gully to the road, alongside a creek, was long and very tedious. In retrospect, returning exactly the way we came would have been faster and more pleasant, which I guess brings us back to the point of the trip – a loop route is possible, best done in a north to south direction - a great trip with plenty of stunning rock scenery and interesting scrambling to keep you entertained.

Click HERE to see the first route to GR338442
Click HERE to see the second route to GR345444