Mountain height:
approx. 2650 m (we came up 100 vertical metres short)
Elevation gain:
1300 m
Roundtrip time: 9 hours
Scrambling with Mark.
Armed with mountaineering gear
and wearing the proper boots, we returned to take another stab at
With crampons, walking up
frozen Grotto Creek was much easier than using the trail we had followed
alongside the creek, earlier in the month. Two hours later, we started up the
long ascent gully on the east side of
As before, the highlight of the ascent was the beautiful fin of rock on the left side of the ascent gully – even more striking with a clear sky behind it. And we had plenty of time to check out that fin, as the gully was very foreshortened and took over an hour to ascend.
Upon reaching the ridge, we
quickly made our way to the slabby rockface that had repelled us last time. With
full-sized crampons, the step was easy to ascend. Unfortunately, this progress
was short lived, as vertical rockbands now barred the route to the summit. The
only potential route was to traverse snow slopes north and ascend a different
ridge. The snow on those slopes was deep and powdery and provided zero
stability. The slopes also appeared to have avalanche potential and we had to
abandon that idea too. We did continue up the scenic and sometimes narrow ridge
until we could go no further and then turned around for the second time in three
weeks on the mountain.
On descent we had the time to explore a few of the interesting features of the
peak, including a narrow and fairly exposed aręte. Needless to say, I inched my
way to the end of the aręte on my butt. Another exposed rock feature just
beyond the aręte also gave the trip a bit of an alpine feel, even though the
travel was straightforward.
Although the retreat was a little disappointing, the beautiful, winter scenery throughout was more than enough to make it a thoroughly worthwhile and enjoyable day.
Hoodoos and a cave alongside Grotto Creek
The east side of Grotto Mountain
Grable Peak
Mark starts up the ascent gully
Approaching the rock fin
Same as above
Same as above
The rock fin
On the ridge
Mark leads the ascent along the ridge
Mount Fable in the background to the right
The ridge and the rockbands that stopped us
Approaching the end of the line
More ridge
Mark tests the snow stability on the alternate ascent route
The end of the line; Gap Peak to the left
Mark belays me onto the aręte
On the aręte
Classic bum-shuffle technique
On descent; the aręte is at the left
The other mildly exposed rock step
Same as above
Same as above