Highwood Peak II

Highwood Peak attempt II – July 3, 2007

Scrambling with Jodi.

With three days to contemplate the error of my ways, I returned to make another stab at Highwood Peak. My first attempt ended when the ridge I was on also ended (in a huge drop-off). Sticking to the route I had originally intended to use was the strategy for the day’s attempt.

I was lucky enough to be joined by Jodi Soare. We dragged along a decent compliment of climbing gear, but hoped that the intended route could be completed without a rope and protection. After a pleasant hike along the Picklejar Creek Trail and then into the scenic valley below the objective, we made our way to the bottom of a long and very unpleasant-looking scree/rubble ramp. The ramp led to a col between Highwood Peak and an unnamed peak due south. From the col we would work our way to the summit via the south ridge…..in theory anyways!

The rubble ramp was annoying right from the start and so we ventured to the left towards slabby terrain. Initially this seemed like a good decision, as the slabs were fun and relatively easy to ascend. Then they became a little steeper and more serious and then a little steeper still - and these slabs never seemed to end. Soon, we had ascended terrain that would be very difficult to descend. Taking out the rope would have been useless, as there was nowhere to place protection or set up belay stations. They were a few tense moments for both of us and a downright scary one when a large rock from above came crashing down the slope ramming into Jodi’s backpack. 10 cm lower and it would have nailed her right in the head. Even the helmet she was wearing would not have fully protected her from that rock.

As mentioned, the ascent slope was far longer than we anticipated and the grade constantly steep. Finally, we arrived at the ridge, both somewhat unnerved by the lengthy and exposed ascent. Unfortunately, there was more bad news at the ridge. A successful ascent depended on the ridge being flat and relatively wide. From below, several pinnacles and drop-offs lined the ridge and I had hoped they could be circumvented on the east side of the ridge. The ridge was narrow and downsloping on the west side and simply dropped off into oblivion on the east.

We made a half-hearted attempt to traverse the ridge towards the summit, but still a little shaken from the slab ascent, we both decided to call off the attempt. Even with the climbing gear, I didn’t think we had much of a shot at the summit and getting down what we had come up was already a concern.

The descent was painstaking and fairly miserable at times. We picked a slightly easier line (actually it was the only way we could go because a vertical rockband barred to the route to the original scree ramp we had intended to use). Most of the time we were able to crab-crawl down the slabs, but sometimes those slabs were scree covered and very dangerous. It took us as much time to descend the slope as it did to ascend it. Arriving back at the grassy meadow was a big relief.

A very interesting and, at times, “exhilarating” day out. On descent, I had decided that this would be a final attempt at the peak, but a day later, I’m thinking I wouldn’t mind one more go at it – what do we have to lose, eh??