Mount Hood II

Mount Hood II – January 12, 2008

Mountain height:           2903 m
Elevation gain:               1300 m
Ascent time:                  6:20
Descent time:                2:55

Snowshoeing, scrambling, and mountaineering with Mark and Ferenc.

When Ferenc suggested a January attempt of Mount Hood, I was at first a little surprised by the idea, but then thought, “What the heck, it’s worth a try”. Any opportunity to summit or even see one of the Opal Range’s magnificent mountains in winter is time more than well spent. I had visited the summit in the summer of 2004, but found the idea of seeing these spectacular peaks covered in snow extremely alluring.

Initially, Mark and I left our snowshoes in the car but quickly decided to return to get them just in case. Good thing too – the snow up the north fork of King Canyon was deep and unconsolidated. We took turns breaking trail, as it was fairly strenuous. Along the way Ferenc shared with us accounts of his successful ascents of the two more difficult peaks of the Opal Range: Mounts Brock and Blane. His harrowing story of the night he spent on Mount Brock prompted me to quickly strike that one off the “to-do” list.

Several hours after leaving we broke tree line to a breath-taking vista, below the west face of Hood. While Mounts Brock and Blane were thoroughly impressive, the colourful rock of Hood, surrounded by a blanket of snow was absolutely striking. As well, the luscious (first adjective that came to mind!) form of Mount Packenham to the north brought back some fond(?) memories.

After trading the snowshoes for crampons and ice axes, we started up the west face of Hood. The common ascent route, up a gully in the centre of the face, was out of the question due to the huge amount of snow in the gully. Therefore, Ferenc led us up the left side of the face, with the intention of traversing into the centre when above the steep, snow-filled gully. This route was not without a few intense moments, especially as we traversed snow slopes back to the centre. A slip here or causing an avalanche would have been disastrous. Fortunately the snow felt quite stable and eventually we were onto easier terrain. Again, Ferenc led and did so with remarkable ease and agility. I’m sure his ascent time would have been at least an hour shorter had Mark and I not been lagging behind.

The scenery throughout was thoroughly engrossing. It was a good thing that Ferenc also shares our obsession with catching every moment of an ascent on film (figuratively, not literally, given the complete absence of film cameras between the three of us). We stopped all too frequently to attempt to capture the beauty of our surroundings.

Another stunning view waited at the Hood/Brock col: that of the north side of Brock and the narrow connecting ridge. Having seen several of the ridges that connect peaks of the Opal Range, I’d have to say that they are as daunting and spectacular as the peaks themselves. This range truly is one of the marvels of the Canadian Rockies.

At the col, I happily announced to the troops that the summit was only a 20 minute plod away – that’s how long it had taken on my previous ascent. Well, perhaps that’s true in summer conditions, but the snow on the east side of the mountain made things significantly trickier and slower. At one point, Ferenc took out a clinometer and measured the angle of the slope to be a dangerous 37 degrees – prime for a slide. Fortunately, the snow was bomber. The only real concern was slipping and plummeting down the steep east face of the peak. The ascent from the col to the summit took an hour, yet again with Ferenc leading the way and arriving there well before Mark and me.

Needless to say, the summit panorama was outstanding, even though it was cloudy to the west. Mountains to the east of us (Glasgow, Cornwall, etc.) were almost bone-dry, while peaks to the west were plastered in snow. In between, the Opal Range had enough snow to make it that much more visually impressive, without completely covering some of the striking colours of the rock and its almost vertically, tilted strata.

Following our tracks in the snow made easy work of the descent. An outstanding trip – challenging and visually stunning – the best of both worlds. Thanks for suggesting it and leading the way, Ferenc.

(Also, a trip not recommended for those without mountaineering experience)

Approaching the base of Mount Hood

Mount Wintour

Mark and me snowshoe up to the base, with Mount Brock behind (photo by Ferenc)

A closer look at Mount Brock

More snowshoeing (photo by Ferenc)

Ferenc looks to the north; Packenham Junior is the small peak above his head,
Grizzly Peak and the south end of Opal Ridge to the right; Inflexible and James Walker at the left