Limestone Mountain Loop June 11, 2005

Limestone height:                                 2,173 m (7,127 ft)
           
Elevation gain:                          583 m
           
Ascent time:                 
           1:50

Ridge height:                                         2,347 m ( ft)
Elevation gain from Limestone:            approx. 100 m loss + 275 m gain 
           
Ascent time from Limestone
           
to highpoint at GR308353:       
3:20

Descent time:                                        2:40

Scrambling with Mark and Dan Cote.

More bad weather…more experimental routes. Having completed an ascent of Limestone Mountain and half of the higher ridge to the east of Limestone, earlier this year, our goal was to see if a loop route was possible and determine how far along the ridge, heading towards The Wedge, we could traverse before being stopped by the steep walls of the impressive mountain. We would also be enjoying the company of a colleague of Mark’s, Dan Cote, on his first scramble.

As before, we used the southeast ridge to ascend Limestone - a route that features some very pleasant and enjoyable hands-on scrambling, although it is far too short-lived. A brief summit stay and we were on our way down to find a scramble route down to the col between Limestone and the ridge. I thought that this would be the crux of the trip and so we had brought along a 60 m rope, in case we were forced to rappel down the cliffband, barring the way. Fortunately, such was not the case and after a short scramble down the first band, just below the summit, we were able to find a gully that split the second and steeper rockband, providing an easy route down and through it.

Surprisingly, the weather had held up to that point, however, at the col, the skies opened up and down came the rain. By the time we had reached the north end of the ridge, the rain stopped, although the sky remained cloudy throughout the ascent. The ridge traverse was definitely the highlight of the trip. Starting off as a fairly wide ridge, it soon narrowed and became more exposed and we decided to short-rope and set up the occasional belay. Although some sections could have been easily circumvented on the right side, we chose to stay on the ridge, enjoying a thrilling ridgewalk and stunning views down the northeast side of the ridge. At one point, a beautiful rainbow appeared, a considerable distance below us. It was quite an unusual experience to be looking down to see a rainbow.  

Dan was great. This is certainly not a beginner scramble, due to some narrow and exposed sections on the ridge, and he negotiated the tricky terrain with ease. Soon we came to the end of the line, where a steeper rockband blocked the route ahead. I continued on, a little ways up the rockband, but was soon on pretty steep terrain that could be ascended without too much difficulty, but may have required a rappel to get down (for me, anyway!).

Our summit stay was eventually cut short, as a nasty-looking weather front stormed over the Kananaskis Range towards us. We took a direct descent route from just north of our highpoint at GR30835, down scree slopes, aiming for the gully to the east of Limestone Mountain. An easy walk along Rocky Creek would then lead us back to the car. We were rained on for the first part of the descent, but lower down, the sky over The Wedge cleared, revealing some beautiful views of the ridge and the mountain.

Surprisingly, the crux of the trip came when we arrived at Rocky Creek. The creek was no longer the shallow and gentle flowing stream that I had boulder-hopped over several times earlier this year. The recent heavy rain had turned it into the torrent of deep and raging water, that was completely impassable. We stayed on the right side of the creek, but were soon stopped by vertical cliffbands blocking the route. For a minute, it looked like we might have to go all the way back up to circumvent the steep rockbands of the lower section of Limestone Mountain and then join up with our ascent route. A little searching and we were able to ascend a small gully and traverse above the rockband, eventually returning to the side of the creek.

A similar situation occurred a short time later, but this time there was no way we were going to be able to get above the rockface.  Luckily, Dan spotted a large tree that had fortuitously fallen across the creek, providing an escape route to the other side. Mark went over first, breaking off numerous branches that hindered his progress and Dan and I followed. I couldn’t believe the enormous volume of water rushing passed us, as we bum-shuffled across the tree. Falling into the creek could have been the end of it all.

Now on the left side Rocky Creek, we found the remainder of the return trip to be straightforward. A great experimental route, with some terrific hands-on scrambling and exposed ridgewalking. Mark and I are both hoping that Dan will be joining us for more of the same!  


The Wedge (centre), Limestone Mountain (far right), and the ridge on between them (photo by Dan)

 

Mark and I preparing for the fun scrambling on Limestone Mountain (photo by Dan)

 

Dan and Mark coming up the ridge

 

Dan tackles a fun scrambling section

 

Dan and I at the summit of Limestone Mountain, looking towards the ridge and The Wedge

 

Looking at the south end of the ridge, from Limestone summit

 

Dan and Mark, after scrambling down the rockband above

 

Mark and Dan coming down through the second rockband

 

Some interesting slab scrambling en route to the south end of the ridge

 

At the south south, starting up towards The Wedge, in the background

 

Dan negotiates exposed terrain on the ridge

 

More interesting scrambling along the ridge; North Kidd hides behind the clouds to the left

 

Taking a short break on the ridge 

 

Mark on the ridge (photo by Dan)

 

Mark's turn to take a break

 

Mark, scrambling up the ridge

 

A rainbow appears below us

 

Looking back at the interesting ridge and the rainbow; North Kidd at the far left

 

Dan and Mark, with the ridge behind

 

Dan carefully scrambles down a very exposed section

 

Dan and I stop at a nice, safe place on the ridge

 

More terrific views of The Wedge

 

More ridge

 

Almost at the end of the line; we stopped where the snow thins out

 

A little further exploration up a steep rockband just before The Wedge; I didn't make it too far up this section

 

Looking back at Mark and Dan; North and South Kidd at the right

 

A closer look at the summit of North Kidd

 

Clear skies behind the summit block of The Wedge, as we descend slabby terrain

 

A view of Limestone Mountain (right) and South Kidd (left) from the descent route

 

Dan and I negotiate the crux of the trip - getting across raging Rocky Creek 

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