Mount Nelson



August 24, 2011
 
Mountain height:    3315 m
Elevation gain:       1990 m
Ascent time:           6:45

Descent time:        3:15
 
Scrambling with Raff.
 
Like Mount Fisher, four days earlier, I really didn’t know what to expect from Mount Nelson. With a height approaching 3353 m (11,000 feet), the summit view was bound to be pretty decent and with an elevation gain of almost 2000 m the actual ascent was bound to be pretty tiring! Those were given, everything else was TBA. Sonny, Kerry and Blanka had completed ascents of Nelson, but I couldn’t remember the details of their reports.  
 
We found out right away the other commonality Nelson shares with Fisher is a good trail right at the beginning that just goes straight up. This one was even better than the Fisher trail and within one and a quarter hours we had already gained 700 of the required 1990 metres of vertical elevation. The trail then dropped down a little into the valley between Nelson and Sultana Peak, due west of Nelson. This is where the trip, fairly dull up to that point, took on a new and wonderful life.
 
The valley was very cool right from the start and only got better and better in terms of scenic opportunities as we made our way up. First came the striking and multi-coloured form of a southern outlier of Sultana. A lush, green foreground and deep blue sky turned this into a totally killer view. A little further up the valley the foreground became red flowers and a small stream. This view was beyond killer! I must have taken as many photos of this outlier as of Nelson itself.  
 
Next up was the rocks. The variety of rock types and colours in the valley was absolutely staggering. Shales, dolomites, quartzites, volcanic intrusions – you name it this valley had it! Near the stream I encountered a magnificent shale (or maybe it was argillite) that was so vibrantly multi-coloured, it defied belief (although perhaps only in my small mind!). The rock continued to be a source of amazement throughout the trip.
 
Further up the valley, enter snow and a variety and huge boulders, haphazardly strewn across the valley floor. For many of them you could see exactly where they peeled of the mountain high above. Nearing the end of the valley and the start of the Nelson ascent, the highly pinnacled and serrated-looking connecting ridge between Nelson and Sultana took centre stage, again with less than subtle hues aplenty to ogle at.
 
I, for one (and I suspect Raff too), was completely mesmerized by this remarkable valley. I’m sure a geologist would have had a total meltdown!

 
The actual ascent of Nelson, though mostly a scree slog, was enjoyable on many other levels. Foremost, the scenery and views were phenomenal throughout. The glacier on the east face of Sultana soon popped into view and would become a more than welcome sight when we stopped to catch our breath – which was quite often – for me anyway! Nelson is the gateway to “Glacier Heaven” – everything to the west of the mountain appears to be more or less glaciated, while Nelson itself and everything to the east is dry.
 
The route was steeper than it appeared, especially near the bottom, requiring some route-finding skills. Of course, encountering a string of cairns wrapped in a light green flagging higher up ended that need.
 
Arriving at the summit block, we were both surprised to find the route to the top lacking in both exposure and difficult scrambling. A few moderate scrambling moves on ledgey rock and then some easy slogging did the trick. And then paradise! A thoroughly engaging summit view kept our butts planted and cameras clicking for more than an hour. Even the clouds to the west weren’t enough to damper in any way our enjoyment of the marvelous vistas. Several of the Purcell’s 11,000ers, Delphine, Farnham, Jumbo, Commander and Karnak stood close by, while other notable peaks in the Bugaboos were some distance away. Like Fisher, my inability to identify most of the surrounding peaks was actually a good thing. It was great to see new mountains in such an awe-inspiring setting.
 
Reluctantly, after a wonderful stay at the top (the summit view may have actually been more enjoyable than consuming my ritual Tangerine Fanta!), we started down. The descent was very easy, taking less than half the time of the ascent and barreling down the steep trail, a pretty decent way to end an incredible day in the Purcell Mountains.    



Moss on trees


The first view of Nelson, just left of centre


The first view of the very impressive southern outlier of Sultana Peak


Flowers



The outlier and flowers


The "macro" version of the above


The outlier from a slightly different angle


Vegetated terrain gives way to colourful, rocky terrain


.... and of course a pleasant stream to complete the scenery


It's a fair distance to the end of the valley, where the ascent begins, but the scenery en route is OUTSTANDING!


A variety of rock types start to appear


Brilliant colours and shapes in the rock


Same as above


Same as above


This rock was totally mesmerizing!


More colours, different rock


A little bland compared with the previous photos, but still elevated my heart-rate!


blah, blah, blah


Same as above, with Raff just visible at the left


Same as above


Raff makes it onto the snow


.....and then more cool rocks




The south wing of Sultana garnered as much attention as Nelson itself


Raff is way ahead now, because I couldn't stop taking photos


He very patiently waited for me here!
 

Starting up the actual mountain; of course, a big, multi-coloured rock stopped my progress again!
 

The rockwall at the side of the ascent gully


Same as above


Raff leads the way


More varieties of rock higher up


The glacier on the east face of Sultana makes an appearance


Raff atop the scrambling section of the summit block





The view to the west


Same as above


A little further north; the big peak in the distant centre is Mount Farnham


The view to the southwest


The famous aluminum cross at the summit


The view to the northeast


Same as above


Raff and the west view



Unusual clouds, as we head down

    
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