Noseeum Peak

Noseeum Peak

July 17, 2011

Mountain height:    3002 m
Elevation gain:       1150 m
Ascent time:           5:30
Descent time:        4:20

Scrambling with Raff.

In truth, after three failed attempts at this summit, I didn’t ever intend to return to finish the job. Mark and I had come very close to the summit on our third attempt and had also visited another highpoint close by, which granted a pretty similar view to the true summit. Personally I was quite content to spare this summit of my footprints.

However, as Raff and I drove north with another objective in mind, clouds were building up. We decided the other objective would have to wait and since Noseeum was close by it became the new objective.

Hiking towards the waterfalls on the first headwall, I started to remember why Mark and I had been so persistent regarding this interesting mountain. The area is simply outstanding: beautiful rock, amazing waterfalls, and a small glacier on Mount Andromache are but a few of the wonderful features of the Noseeum Creek environment.

We quickly gained the top of the first headwall and then headed to the second. It proved to be a little challenging with a few moves of steep and exposed scrambling. Just beyond the second headwall the scenery hits you in full force, with a fantastic view of the multiple peaks of the Noseeum Horseshoe surrounding small but picturesque Noseeum Lake. Andromache and its glacier also continued to be a source of fascination.

Taking an extended break to soak in the scenery we now needed to decide on a route to the summit: direct or the long way. Unfortunately I didn’t have with me Graeme Pole’s route description, but several more or less direct lines to the summit looked feasible from our vantage point. Mark and I had completed most of the horseshoe route, so we didn’t feel the need to go the long way.

Raff led the ascent and did so with his usual expertise and excellent route-finding skills. In order to avoid putting on crampons we took a line up snow-free rock, as opposed to a nearby snow gully. A couple of steps of steep and exposed scrambling were cause for us to eliminate this as a descent route. Thankfully when we reached the ridge we did see that going down the nearby snow gully would probably be an easy affair.

If there ever was a ridgewalk to the summit of a mountain that was as scenic as it was easy this was it! The weather was far from perfect, but that did little to impair magnificent views in all directions. We strolled up to the top, cameras clicking and in great spirits. Raff immediately commented that the views from this obscure and unofficial peak were superior to many of the more than 40, 11,000 er’s Raff has already climbed. We stayed at the top for a full hour. I don’t even want to think about how many photos were snapped during that time!

Highlights of the panorama included a slew of 11,000 er’s, of which Hector and Willingdon were the most prominent, snowy Cataract Peak, the trio of Quartzite, Ramp, and Mosquito, and about a zillion unnamed peaks to the northeast, east, and southeast.

After begrudgingly peeling ourselves away from the summit we continued the loop route by following Mr. Pole’s horseshoe route but in reverse. Again, this was not without challenge. Some exposed down-climbing and tricky route-finding meant we wouldn’t be saving a huge amount of time by doing this route. However, it was wonderfully scenic and allowed us to see the small, but steep glacier on the east side of the mountain (unmarked on topo maps). The loop route is definitely best done in the direction recommended by Graeme. A pleasant hike back to the car ended a totally superb trip.

Mount Andromache and the Molar Glacier