Mount Rutherford attempt August 8-11, 2005

Backpacking with Kevin Barton, and Jock Rutherford.

Kevin and Jock conceived this plan some time ago and the year of Alberta ’s Centennial seemed like perfect timing to execute it. Named after the province’s first premier, Alexander Cameron Rutherford, a first ascent of the unclimbed mountain, north of Jasper, would be a fitting tribute.

We budgeted 6 days for the trip, giving us one extra day for a summit attempt in case of inclement weather. Here’s how it went:

Day 1: Tedium

A 5 hour drive to the North Boundary trailhead, followed by a dull and tedious 17 km hike to Shalebanks Campground.

After 5 kilometres of hiking, you come to this interesting sign; 180 km on foot to Mount Robson??!! - no thanks!. I'll settle for an easy drive to the Berg Lake trailhead and then a 22 km hike (photo by Kevin)

Day 2: Excitement

We started the day by scouting out a location to cross the wide, deep, and fast-flowing Snake Indian River. During that process, Jock and I startled a grizzly at the water’s edge. Scared out of his/her wits, the poor animal bolted right past Kevin (who hit the ground like a ton of bricks), and into the forest. I thought for sure that Kevin was going to be mauled. Luckily, he was not and was he surprisingly composed after the close call.

After an hour of searching, we found a spot to cross, but even here, the river was dangerously high and very fast-flowing. We decided that a rope would have to be placed across the river so that we could get our backpacks over using an inflatable raft. Kevin was the brave soul who went first. With a belay, he slowly and cautiously worked his way over to the other side and fastened the rope to a tree. Jock also had an unenviable task – taking the first backpack over in the raft. He did remarkably well, until just before the shore, the raft flipped, sending the backpack into the water. Of course, it was tethered to the rope, but it still received a thorough soaking. Kevin and Jock then took turns taking the other packs over and I came last, releasing the anchor on my side of the river, and then being belayed over. The whole process took 4 grueling hours and after we had only enough energy to hike a few kilometers further and find a decent bivy site for the night. We were now on uncharted territory and there was no evidence that any human had ever been there. 

The easy banks of the Snake Indian River; the black shale explains the name of nearby Shalebanks campground

 

Another view of the Snake Indian River

 

Jock and I blowed up the raft before the 4 hour river crossing; this was the most "lip action" I had seen in some time, and I didn't even get slapped afterwards! (photo by Kevin)

 

 

Kevin leading the river crossing

 

Day 3: Bush and resignation

The goal of the day was to hike approximately 12 km, along the side of several mountains and find another bivy site, from where we could make a summit attempt the following day. We knew this would be the most trying day and we were dead right. The bush on the slopes was unforgiving. We were constantly going up and down, instead of across, in order to find a viable route, and progress was painstakingly slow.

Leading the way, Kevin had his second mishap of the trip when he ran into a wasp nest and was viciously attacked by the insects. He received 5 stings while Jock and I got away scott-free. I’m sure I broke a couple of speed records, running from the scene, when I heard Kevin scream “wasps”! Again, resilient Kevin was unfazed by the incident and we carried on.

Several hours later, upon checking GPS coordinates and the map, we were hit by the grim realization that we were moving at a rate of approximately 1 km every 2 hours. This meant it would have taken us 24 hours of continuous bushwhacking to make it to the base of Mount Rutherford . We continued on for a while longer, but there was no end in sight – endless kilometres of side-hill bush-bashing. I played the pessimist and suggested we cut our losses and turn around. Jock wanted to go on a little further, but Kevin was also not too optimistic about our chances and in bitter resignation, we turned around. Eventually, we found another bivy site and settled down for the night intent on making it all the way back to the car the following day.  

Finally out of the bush and onto the boulder slopes, we continued on for a couple of hours beyond this point (photo by Kevin)

 

   

Jock relaxes at our bivy site after we turned around (photo by Kevin)

 

Day 4: More excitement, more tedium, and relief

The easiest part of our last day was getting back to the river. Unfortunately, because of the heavy rain over the several days we had been out, the Snake Indian was now higher and faster. Getting the packs over on the raft was sheer hell (for Jock and Kevin, anyway – I just stood on the other side of the river cheering them on and thanking God it was them, not me!). During the crossings we had discussed the option of leaving the rope in place until we were all across and then cutting it from our side, thus losing the 60 m rope. As the last person over, I was called on to make that decision and I decided to play it safe and leave the rope in place. In retrospect, I’m totally glad I did. The river was over waist high at some points and very fast-flowing. Even with a belay from the other side, I think the current would have picked me up like a rag doll and the rapids not more than 20 metres downstream looked great for white-water rafting, but not for a solo swim without a life-jacket and tied to a rope – talk about a disaster waiting to happen! 3 hours after starting, we were all safely back on the other side of the river (but very wet!).

We arrived back at the campground at about 4 pm , took a short rest and then started the long 17 km hike back to the car. It was even more tedious and unenjoyable as the first time and I was so unbelievably relived to arrive back at the car 5 hours later. Not wanting to drive back to Calgary in the middle of the night and in a physically exhausted state, we stayed at a nearby campground and drove back the following day.

Epilogue: A great idea and a great plan of attack, but in the mountains, there are too many variables that you simply cannot predict. First-hand experience is the only way one will ever know – and now we know! When we return to try again, we’ll know what to expect and we’ll be prepared physically and mentally for it.

Though we didn’t get near the summit of our intended destination, the trip was a very positive experience for me. Jock and Kevin are great guys to go with. We all got along extremely well and there was no friction between anyone, even when individual opinions differed. No summit, but a great character-builder! 

Looking down at the area for our return trip across the river (photo by Kevin)

 

Jock ferries one of the packbacks across the river (photo by Kevin)

 

Me, coming across the river; without the rope, I would have not been able stay upright at this point (photo by Kevin)

Click HERE to see Jock's webpage for the trip

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