Unnamed attempt II (between Popes Peak and Mount Collier) – July 3, 2006

Roundtrip time: 10:50

Climbing with Mark.

Two years after the unsuccessful attempt of this peak, in a stunning location of the Plain of Six Glaciers, we were back for attempt number two. The bright side is that we did make some additional progress up the mountain – a satisfying 1.5 metres, that is. At that rate, it will take us about 150 attempts to finally summit. I figure if we double the rate to 3 metres per ascent, we’ll be able to get to the top before my 110th birthday!

We perhaps tried this route a few weeks too early in the season, as lingering snow patches (really big ones, actually!) made the first part of the ascent quite a challenge. Whereas two years ago, we simply walked up to the start of the east ridge, this time we had to set up numerous belays on very unstable terrain. Meltwater from the glacier and snow patches caused the instability and on the way down a huge pile of large rocks above me and came crashing down on my legs. I thought for sure they would break my legs, but luckily I walked away unscathed.

We were four hours into the trip before even setting foot on the east ridge and were both concerned that the descent would be very slow. As well, as we started up the ridge, we encountered more snow in the ascent gully, further complicating matters and adding to our unease. We scrambled up to the first rockband (very enjoyable, steep scrambling on mostly great rock) and then looked for the easiest ascent route. In 2004, we spent 5 hours looking for a 5.4 weakness in the rockband and though a couple of spots looked feasible, both were beyond our comfort level and we retreated. I mistakenly thought that with a little more experience, more climbing gear, and approach shoes, instead of boots, those two places would seem less daunting. They weren’t – not even in the least.

The first was basically a blank wall, with nowhere to place protection and few good holds. After eyeing it up for several minutes, I backed down without even trying it. The second, about 50 m to the right, had more places to place pro, but after progressing up the band a few metres I hit an impasse, where I couldn’t find any decent holds above. Again, I backed down. We both decided at this point that since the descent was going to entail a good deal of careful downclimbing and then a precarious and perhaps unnerving escape route around the glacier, we would call it a day. That was a good decision, as there were several tense moments on the way down and by the time we were onto safer terrain, we were both relieved just to have made it down with injury or anything more serious.

As usual, the phenomenal scenery in the area helped to ease our “summit failure blues” and we both very much enjoyed the trip.   

On the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail

 

Near the teahouse, with Unnamed in the centre

 

This view of The Mitre (far left), Lefroy (centre) and Victoria (right) never ceases to amaze me

 

Mark ascends the snow/rubble gully

 

At the top of the gully, looking towards our objective (far left)

 

Sketchy terrain below the glacier. The gap seen between the snow and rock was a death-trap and was very deep. We had a set up a belay to get over it. 

 

Mark makes his way towards the glacier

 

The toe of the glacier

 

The south ridge of Mount Victoria; the infamous "Sickle" is the U-shaped drop along the ridge

 

Trying to get around the bottom of the glacier; again this terrain was cause for concern, as it was hideously unstable 

 

Great scrambling on the lower east ridge

 

More scrambling, as we approach the first rockband (the one we couldn't get up!)

 

Stuck on the rockband; I didn't get any higher than this point

 

The view towards Mount Whyte

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