Mount Victoria (North summit)
August 6, 2005
Mountain height: 3,388 m
Elevation gain: 1,660 m
Ascent time: 8:05
Descent time: 6:20
Mountaineering with Mark and James Wright.
Talk about getting thrown into the fire!
Previous to the day’s attempt of the North summit of picturesque Mount
Victoria, James’ only other mountain experience was an ascent of Mount Rae, via
the Kane scramble route, with Mark, Holland, and Dan, two weeks earlier.
Apparently he enjoyed that experience very much and therefore eagerly accepted
the far greater challenge of a glaciated 11,000er.
We got the usual mishap of the day out of
the way, right away, when I left my crampons at home. We therefore had to wait
until 9:00 am in Lake Louise, so I could rent a pair from Wilson Sports - another
great alpine start of 9:15 am from
the parking lot. After an enjoyable and scenic hike to the foot of
glacier, under perfectly clear skies, we roped up and stepped onto the
glacier.
What started off quite tamely, quickly turned into the often
awe-inspiring and
sometimes frightening lure of glacier travel, as gapping and twisting
crevasses
scoured the landscape. They may be dangerous, but glaciers and
crevasses are one of the many unbelievable wonderments of nature – each
completely
unique, mysterious, and deadly. I have yet to be on a glacier that
didn’t
incite complete awe in me – fantastic!
Although, one or two crevasses did require
small diversions and extra care to get around, the glacier travel was
straightforward and fortunately, James was not called upon to employ one the
potential lifesaving techniques that we hurriedly tried to teach him on the
walk up (a day later, I’m sure he doesn’t remember a single thing we said – I
should stick to teaching math and music!). Halfway up the glacier we ran into
another party making their descent. They soberly informed us that the summit
was still about 4 and a half hours away. This was not good news as it was now 1:30 pm and the considerable heat
was softening the snow rapidly. Nevertheless, collectively, we thought we could
make better time than 4.5 hours and therefore continued on (in truth, I thought
we had a glacier’s chance in hell of getting anywhere near the summit!).
The second part of the trip involved
scrambling up the fairly long black rockband, with stretches of steep snow
interspersed, to the Victoria/Collier col. Some of the terrain was quite steep
and I was immediately concerned that the descent might be very tricky. The view
from the col was outstanding and as well as far too many stunning peaks to
mention, included a beautiful view of the snowy ridge towards Collier Peak.
Part three consisted of a somewhat exposed
snow ridgewalk to a rock step, ascent of the rock step, and then easier terrain
to the summit. The ridgewalk was exhilarating, sporting significantly drop-offs
on both sides, the rock step actually quite easy, once I got over my initial
fear of some intense exposure on the left side, and the final push to the
summit, again easy, although since we had ditched our mountaineering boots, in
favour of our approach shoes for the rock step and summit, we were all a little
unnerved about the return – an involuntary glissade on these slopes would send
you hurling down the awesome glaciated and fractured north face of the mountain. We arrived at the summit at 5:30 pm, needless to say, to a
stunning panorama. The long ridge towards the south summit of Victoria was particularly
breath-taking.
Throughout the ascent, Mark and I were
thoroughly impressed with James’ performance. He had no problems with exposure
and glacier travel, was not in the least apprehensive about tackling more
difficult terrain, endured a long and very physically strenuous ascent, and
very much appreciated the awesome beauty of the area. Having never rappelled,
James was obligated to do so, on descent, and again had absolutely no problems
– a naturally-gifted mountaineer!
Due the lateness of the day, our summit stay was
short. The first part of the descent was slow, but easier than we were
expecting. The same can be said of the black rockband. We happened upon a
rappel station halfway down, but actually found an easier descent route (than
our ascent route) and were able to downclimb the whole band. The remainder of the
descent was much faster, but we were still all thoroughly exhausted by the time
with made it back to the car at 11:45
pm. Another absolutely magnificent day in the mountains, with
fantastic company (and James and Mark weren’t bad either!).
James and me at the head of Lake Louise. Mount Victoria dominates the background.
The summit of Victoria North is just visible right of centre.
Checking out the stunning view of mounts Lefroy and Victoria
Checking out the view Unnamed bewtween Collier Peak and Popes Peak - an objective we failed to reach twice!
Finally off the Plain of Six Glaciers trail and heading towards the Victoria Glacier
Almost at the glacier
There it is - glorious Mount Victoria. Both summits of Victoria are visible. Our objective is the highpoint at the right.
James is geared up and ready to step onto a glacier for the first time.
Here we go
Looking down into the first crevasse we encountered
Easy travel on the lower section
Heading towards the black band
Very cool snow and ice formations
Onto much steeper terrain
And far more serious crevasses
Thankfully, most of the crevasses were open and easy to get around
Looking back to Lake Louise
The wondrous details of a glacier - sad to think this may all be gone by the end of the 21st Century
Taking a break and admiring Mount Lefroy
Mark enjoying the view too. Collier Peak behind
Steep snow to the black band
Off the snow and onto the rock
Looking up, with concern, at the upcoming climbing. Aberdeen, Haddo and Sheol in the background.
Of course the snowy giant near the right is Mount Temple.
James is not concerned at all :)
Manageable angle low down
Steep snow to gain the ridge
On the ridge and heading happily towards the summit
Looking back at James, Mark, and Collier Peak
The 5.3 rock step
James ascends the step
Getting close!
The final few steps to the summit
James and Mark complete the ascent
Celebration at the summit
The steep east face of Victoria. The pointed peak near the left is Deltaform Mountain.
Looking along Victoria's long ridge to the South summit. Mount Biddle at the right.
Starting the long trip back
Rappelling the rock step
The ridge and Collier Peak are both incredible
More descent
Mark starts down the black band
Lots of crevasses to get around still
Mark prepares to and then jumps over a crevasse that still has a weak snowbridge over it
Crampons mandatory!!
The Sun is setting but we are almost off the glacier
The End
