Allen Mountain
    
 
June 30, 2019
 
Mountain height: 2858 m
Elevation gain:   1371 m
Ascent time:       5:30
Descent time:     4:10
 
Scrambling with Raff.
 
Having recently purchased several volumes of Blake Passmore’s terrific guidebooks for Glacier National Park, Montana, it was time to give them a quick workout. This five volume set is an excellent supplement to the informal “bible” of the area, Gordon Edwards’ A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park – as legendary a guidebook for the northern American Rockies as Alan Kane’s Scrambles is for the southern Canadian Rockies.
 
For the day’s enjoyment we picked Allen Mountain, via the Snow Moon Basin Route – recommended by both Edwards and Passmore. Here’s a summary of our day:   
 
Highlights:

1.   The amazing view of Mount Gould, Grinnell Point, Mount Wilbur and several others reflected in the still waters of Swiftcurrent Lake, near the trailhead.   
2.   A remarkable trail that traverses the seemingly untraversable north side of Allen. Many thanks to the goats who probably made the trail and deep bow to the humans who found it!
3.   Two beautiful lakes (Falling Leaf and Snow Moon), providing a terrific rest spot before embarking on one of the “lowlights”.
4.   Colourful rock everywhere.
5.   The exciting “Great Break route” up to the ridge.
6.   Outrageously stunning and colourful views upon reaching the summit ridge.
7.   Sweet mountain lakes everywhere.
8.   More outrageously stunning views while traversing the ridge to the summit.  
9.   A totally killer summit view with, yes, colouful mountains and beautiful lakes everywhere.
10.  Almost perfect weather throughout.
 

 
Lowlights:

1.   A long and very foreshortened slog to the summit ridge.
2.   An unexpected storm system that came out of nowhere. It actually snowed for a few minutes.
 
Glacier National Park continues to impress me in ways that I cannot effectively express in words. Fantastic route on a fantastic mountain. Thank you Dr. Edwards and Mr. Passmore.


Great start to the day - Gould, Grinnel Point, Swiftcurrent, and Wilbur reflected in Swiftcurrent Lake.



Raff ascends pretty stable scree on the north side of Allen



Interesting pattern in
Lake Sherburne



Three of my favourite scrambles of all time: Henkel, Altyn, and Appikuni



The goat trail around the north side is not without some exposure



Approaching Schwab Falls



Looks like it's going to be a colourful rock day



Approaching Falling Leaf Lake. The summit of Allen Mountain at the left.




Classic Glacier Park rock



A snow bank still covers the stream joining Falling Leaf Lake to Snow Moon Lake



Raff crosses the outlet of Snow Moon



The peak behind is an outlier on Allen's north side. As Dr. Edwards states Allen is a HUGE mountain!



The views start to open up to the northwest. Wilbur, Ipasha, and Merrit can be seen.



Hiking towards the summit block under increasingly cloudy skies



Colourful Cracker Lake below Mount Siyeh



What happened to the perfect weather forecast?!



Just before it hit the fan - ie. snow on the last day of June!



Thankfully, the storm passed by quickly and we were able to resume the ascent. Raff looking for a way up.



He picked this one



Love Glacier cairns! The storm is heading east very quickly



Typical scrambling terrain



Raff found a route on the other side of the ridge to circumvent some of the difficulties



Back to the right side of the ridge and again looking for a way up. Spot Raff on the face.



There is a little exposure to deal with here, but like Crypt Peak, the slopes look worse than they are



Mount Jackson, another GNP favourite, peaks over the ridge



Back on the upper ridge, the scenery is about to get lake crazy!



Siyeh, Jackson, and snow



5 visible lakes here to the north and northeast



Add another to the northwest



Summit (far left) is a super pleasant ridge walk away



Spot Raff on the ridge



Looking down on Falling Leaf and Snow Moon



Looking back along the ridge



The colourful, lake-filled view to the north and northeast was mesmerizing throughout



Awesome summit view. 6 lakes were visible on this side and 2 more around the corner



Mount Gould



Distant Heaven's Peak



Cracker Lake looking much better with the Sun shining on it



View to the southwest



Close-up of Heaven's Peak



Couldn't get enough of this view



Raff at the summit



Yellow Mountain. Every mountain we've ascended in Glacier is a favourite!!!



Part of the Grinnell Glacier, known as The Salamander (I think)



Raff is happy to be at the summit



Had to get a shot of Raff with the view to the north



Heading back



Usually I hate clouds, but the ones here were pretty cool









The north side of the summit block is very steep!






Raff descends the crux



A couple of awkward moves, but nothing too serious
 


Almost back at the lakes, this random chunk of red argillite caught my attention



Remaining snow made some of the descent fast and easy



More argillite at the lake



Raff is back at the intersection of the two lakes



Second last look at the summit block of Allen



Last look at Allen and Schwab Falls



Raff points out the super easy route we could have taken!

The End
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