Mount Babel attempt
July 21, 2019
Mountaineering with Mark and Dan.
Although Mark and I have looked longingly at Mount Babel for what seems
like an eternity, the lack of a relatively easy route to its summit has
prevented an attempt – until now. A published 4th class route in
David P. Jones outstanding Rockies Central guidebook gave us some hope we could reach the
summit without too much technical work. The described route avoids all the
climbing on the north ridge via a long 4th class gully on the east
side on the mountain. Joining us for the day was my good buddy and climbing
extraordinaire Dan Carrerio (see Moab IV).
The trip started with an easy hike to the Consolation Lakes. Given the
Sun had yet to reach the beautiful lake, we simply continued up, spotting the
ascent gully a fair distance uphill. Once the Sun did rise it certainly did highlight Babel’s daunting east side.
We
didn't bring a ton of climbing equipment, but did pack
crampons and ice axes. Good thing as the gully was snow filled from top
to
bottom. The firm snow provided solid footing, allowing us to make good
progress up the lower section. Our pace slowed a little for the middle
section – steeper terrain
and soft and increasingly thin snow.
Unfortunately, the upper section of the gully would prove to be too
sketchy. I made it within a few hundred metres of the ridge but was now on very
steep terrain covered in mushy snow that felt way less than stable. Looking up,
the exit onto the ridge appeared to be blocked by a huge wall of snow that
would have required burrowing through with an ice axe. It was a no-brainer and we turned around.
The consolation for the day (perhaps not surprisingly) was the
Consolation Lakes. On a clear day the views over the first lake are stunning, especially
the towards glaciated forms of Quadra Mountain and Mount Bident. We took an extended break at
the lake and then returned to the very congested parking lot.
A slightly disappointing day, but any time spent in the Moraine Lake area
on a perfect weather day is always going to be its own reward.
Arriving at the boulder field by Consolation Lake
Mount Bident (left) and one of the four summits of Quadra Mountain
The magnificent east side of Babel. The ascent route goes up the snow-filled gully just right of centre.
It's a heart-thumping grind up steep rubble to the gully
Mark at the vertical rock walls on both sides of the gully
Dan fuels up before the real work begins
Very interesting rock on this mountain
Up we go - crampons and ices axes mandatory
Dan takes the middle position
Mark and Dan. This photo gives a good indication of the steepness of the gully.
Onward and upward
Snow melting created this huge runnel that provided an ideal path to follow
Making good progress up the lower slopes
Dan in the runnel
Choosing the right fork
View across the valley to the Skoki area
There were some moats between the rock and snow that deserved extra care and attention
This small plateau provided a good rest spot
Dan takes the lead for a while
Mark and Dan ascends increasingly tricky terrain
The route ahead looks sketchy
....but you are always surrounded by numerous, towering spires
Approaching the end of the line. We turned around near the two patches of rock.
Back at the plateau for another food break
Careful downclimbing
Lit up by the Sun, the first Consolation lake looks pretty amazing
Looking back up the route
Back at the lake
Panorama Ridge
Leaving the lakes, with a great view of Mount Temple
The Tower of Babel is one of the "best bang for your buck" Kane scrambles
Moraine Lake and The Valley of the Ten Peaks from the Rockpile hike
Possibly the most scenic hike in the Rockies that is under 1 km
The End
