Eagle Lake Peak II and Rum Ridge
December
28, 2018
Mountain
heights: 2500 m, 2538 m
Elevation gain: 1634 m
Roundtrip
time:
10:03
Scrambling
with Doug Lutz, Ken Dalton, and Jason Minski.
After a
“glorious” day on Mount Gloria in July of this year I was quite certain that
Doug Lutz and I would be able hook up for another trip before year’s end. Some
back and forth messaging was required, but eventually we agreed on an ambitious
circuit route taking us to the summits of Eagle Lake Peak, Rum Ridge, and
Evangeline Peak, in the Ya Ha Tinda area. Doug had already completed Rum and
Evangeline and I had done Eagle two weeks prior, but we were both happy to
repeat any of the peaks. We were also very happy to be joined by Ken Dalton and
Jason Minski for the day – a big thank you to Ken for driving.
We left
the vehicle at around 7:30 am, with a starting air temperature of -22oC
– about 20 degrees colder than I was hoping for! The troops had graciously
agreed to attempt an alternate ascent route up Eagle that Mark and I had
spotted on our trip. Doug led the approach with his classic breakneck speed and
before long we were ascending the southwest ridge above Eagle Lake and enjoying
a beautiful sunrise.
All was
going exceedingly well until we gained enough elevation to see the entire ridge
leading to the summit – “Oh my!” was the polite reaction! The route was
littered with seemingly vertical rock bands that would stop us dead in our
tracks. Nevertheless, everyone was game for continuing on, Ken now leading the
group at his breakneck speed! Even if the route didn’t go, it looked to be fun,
very scenic, and we had spotted a potential route around the difficulties that
would unfortunately require a significant elevation loss if things got out of
hand, but looked straightforward.
No need
for that loss. To our delight, the rock bands were all easily scrambled or
circumvented on the right side. Ken even found a weakness through the biggest
rock band, but we talked him out of it when he was about halfway up.
With the
first challenge of the day behind us, we now faced the second and more serious
one – the cold. From here one in the wind was relentless and brutally cold. Within
the next few hours, not only did the hose from my Camelbak freeze, but the
entire 2.5 litres inside became a huge chuck of ice. Luckily I had a bottle of
Gatorade to keep myself hydrated. In time, even the Gatorade turned into an icy
slush and I had to put in inside my jacket to keep it from freezing thoroughly.
The rest of the group didn’t fare much better, frozen solid water bottles and
parched throats becoming the theme of the day.
Fortunately,
we were having way too much fun to let the minor inconvenience of “death by
dehydration” stop us! Clear skies, fantastic views, a stunning ridge, and great
company – that’s all a man (or women) needs!
Eventually
we did make the summit of Eagle (speedy Ken well in advance of the rest of us),
took the obligatory summit photo (thanks to Doug for setting that up and
exposing his bare hands to the cold) and then continued the trip towards Rum
Ridge.
The first
part of this beautiful, high level, up and down traverse would prove to be the
game-changer of the day. The wind was much worse here and even though we were
moving at a decent pace throughout, travel was thoroughly draining to say the
least. We all stopped at one of the many highpoints along the ridge to discuss
options: Evangeline or Rum, but not both. As the slow-poke of the group I had
already resigned myself to Rum only. Doug suggested Rum and everyone agreed
(phew for me!). I’m sure the Young Guns of the group (unfortunately I’m not one
of them anymore) could have made Evangeline, but they again, graciously chose
to hang out with the Old-Timers.
Turning
in a southwest direction towards the terrific northeast ridge of Rum, we were
pleasantly surprised to encounter a noticeable decrease in the intensity of the
wind. This made the already very enjoyable ascent to the summit of Rum even
more so. Everyone was pumped to reach the second summit of the day,
congratulations were extended, and another group summit photo was taken.
Getting
down the east and southeast ridges of Rum was not without its challenges and definitely
the highlight of both peaks. We bypassed the first section of the narrow, exposed
ridge, regained the ridge and then it followed over more sections of exposed
terrain to its end. The wind and dusting of fresh snow certainly added to the
exhilarating nature of this part of the ridge. Kudos to Doug, Ken, and Jason,
who took turns leading here, while I happily followed in their footsteps.
Beyond
the narrow ridge, much easier terrain led down to the valley below and with
some good navigation by Jason we were soon back on the Eagle Lake Trail,
hurrying to the trailhead so we didn’t have to get our headlamps out. We made
it! In near pitch black lighting, Doug took a very creative final group photo
using our headlamps to end a magnificent day with three awesome scrambling
partners.
But it
didn’t end there. On the way home, we stopped at the A&W in Sundre for
Chubby Chicken Burger meals – even more delicious than normal, having just
completed a 10 hour day with about 1600 m of elevation gain!
Thanks
Doug, Ken, and Jason for a super memorable and fun day out!
Click here to see Doug's excellent Facebook post
Epilogue:
to get an idea of how cold this trip was, in addition experiencing a completely
frozen Camelbak, and slushy Gatorade, I lost most of the hearing in my left ear
(the ear that was facing the wind) later that evening, even though I had a
balaclava, neck gaiter, and toque covering that ear. I imagine it was due to
swelling in the ear. Thankfully, the hearing returned by morning.
Jason checks out the pleasant colours of the sunrise
There they are (photo by Ken)
Great to be alive! (and out in the mountains) (photo by Ken)
Someone or something had fun on Eagle Lake! (photo by Doug)
Very cliffy on the right side of the ridge (photo by Doug)
Checking out Barrier Mountain (big one near the left) and Warden Rock (right of center) (photo by Ken)
Ken reached many of the highpoints first
Others, much later! (photo by Doug)
Maze Peak and the Eagle Lakes (photo by Doug)
Ken always waited for us - good guy! (photo by Ken)
Our first look at the very challenging looking ridge ahead (photo by Doug)
Jason and Doug check out potential routes to get up that ridge,
while I hang my head in resignation (photo by Ken)
Beautiful ridge to follow
Many stops to enjoy the view to the west, even though it meant facing into the wind (photo by Ken)
The Sun comes up on the vertiginous south side of the ridge
More great ridge stuff (photo by Doug)
The Downclimb. Ken led this and we all followed (photo by Ken)
Approaching the highpoint of the southeast ridge. Here, we turned north and ascended the ridge at the far left.
Cairn at the highpoint (usually a good sign) and the summit of Eagle just right of center
All difficulties on the ridge are easily scrambled or circumvented. We went up the left side.
Looking back to the highpoint, Maze Peak, and the slow-poke (photo by Doug)
Easy, but interesting terrain to ascend
Deciding on a route up
Ken tackles the most challenging of the rock bands (left). He could have made it to the top but we talked him out of it.
Watching Ken ascend the cool band (photo by Doug)
Above the band it's easier terrain to the next highpoint
Doug captures a Sun halo over Maze Peak (photo by Doug)
Onto the "normal" route
After circumventing the most serious step in the ridge, Ken upclimbs some of it
Doug gave it a go too
"Water, water everywhere
Nor any drop to drink"
Doug squeezes out a couple of drops, but that was it!
On the move again and heading up to the false summit
Jason descends to the lowpoint along the ridge before the slog to the summit (photo by Doug)
Jason at the lowpoint, with Rum Ridge behind
Doug on the final ascent slope to the summit of Eagle
Ken on the vast and foreshortened slopes
Rest time. Thankfully whenever I needed to catch my breath so did Doug
Doug takes the final few steps to the summit
Looking south along the ridge (photo by Doug)
Success for summit #1 (photo by Doug)
Ken and Jason start the long traverse to Rum Ridge
Looking down the snowy and steep east face of Eagle
Approaching the most tedious part of the traverse - loose rubble on steep slopes
Doug leads the gang into the unknown
Easy does it
Eagle and the tedious slope (photo by Doug)
Ken and Jason hit another highpoint
Rum Ridge (center) still looks distant (photo by Doug)
Only one way to get there!
Throughout, there was an impressive drop on the east and northeast sides of Eagle
There's another
And another!
Looking back to Eagle. There would have been much more snow
blowing over the ridge had the wind already not taken most of it.
Ken looks very small against the huge landscape of the mountain
Heading up the next highpoint. Huge drop off this one!
Is that a bottle of Gatorade in your jacket or are you pregnant? (photo by Doug)
Needed to get my "orange lichen on rock" fix!
Ken demonstrates the strength of the wind
Group meeting. Here's where we decided to go for Rum (photo by Doug)
The beautiful northeast ridge of Rum Ridge (photo by Doug)
Ken and Jason get ready to tackle the ridge
Evangeline Peak. Another day! (photo by Doug)
The boys on Rum Ridge
Fun scrambling that's easier than it looks
Will I ever catch up with them?
Almost there
Ken had his ice axe handy for hard snow and celebrations
Too lazy to get my axe, but it would have been nice for a couple of sections (photo by Doug)
Ken and Evangeline
His axe was perfect for this short section
Sweet summit #2! (photo by Doug)
Not sure if these peaks to the west have names, but they sure look inviting
The awesome and unexpectedly narrow southeast ridge of Rum
Looking back to Eagle Lake Peak. The low ridge right in front is
part of the alternate descent route Mark and I took off Eagle.
The wind made the first part of the traverse too sketchy, so we traversed below,
encountering this terrific wind-sculpted snow wall
Back on the ridge, Ken negotiates a tricky section (photo by Doug)
Jason does the same (photo by Doug)
A few pinnacles were easily circumvented
Doug leads a steep section of tricky but fun scrambling
Up he goes
Ken ascends the step (photo by Doug)
Stopping for a photo op and still trying to keep the Gatorade from freezing (photo by Doug)
The narrow ridge is surprisingly long
Jason takes over the lead here
At the end of the ridge looking back at it and Eagle, over to the right
Much wider ridge!
Took a quick diversion to see this colourful rock band and jokingly told Ken to climb it.
Apparently he hasn't figured out my sense of humor yet!
Great pose at the top!
Same as above, but from Doug's vantage point (photo by Doug)
Great set up and timed photo by Doug (although it wrecks my perma-tan!). Great times! (photo by Doug)
The End
