Moab IV - Day 5
Ancient Art
Hot off an amazing ascent of South Six-Shooter
Dan was pumped to give Ancient Art a go. He had cruised up everything he
touched so far on the trip and was in top form. Conversely, I had struggled up
everything I had touched and was not confident I could successfully ascend a
two-step ladder at this point! However, I was very confident in Dan’s abilities
not only to get up the 5.10+ or 5.8, A0 Stolen Chimney route on Ancient Art, but
also to get me up it.
This route is one of the most unique and sought
after routes, not only in Moab but in the entire of North America. The existence
of the bizarre form of wind eroded summit block defies logic – how did such an unusually
shaped rock form and why is it still there? Not that I really cared about this
– I only cared that it would still be there before and after our attempt.
The day seemed to unfold perfectly. The
weather was stellar and by the time we arrived at the base of the climb another
two-person party had started up and for now there was no one behind us. Dan got
us up the first and pitch with ease (maybe 5.5). The second pitch quickly wakes
you up after that, as you attempt to “pinch pebbles” up near vertical sandstone/conglomerate rock.
It goes at 5.8, A0 or free at 5.10+. Dan had already decided he would attempt to
free climb it and so he did – well done! Watching Dan skillfully ascend this
“impossible wall” increased even more my confidence in him.
While Dan wanted to free climb the route I
had already decided to aid the @#$! out of it. Climbing ethics were out of the
window for this day – get to the top by any means possible was the plan. As
such, I grabbed onto the quickdraws Dan had placed to pull myself up. Had I
been hooked up to an IV, I’m sure I could have free climbed the pitch in about
three days, but pulling on the gear was a much easier solution!
Pitch 3 and unknown territory. Evan and I had
made it to this point back in 2015 before bailing. This is the nameske part of
the route and goes about 35 m up a very cool vertical chimney. There are no
bolts but tons of cracks to place cams. Dan did exactly that until he ran out
of pro, whereupon he finished the chimney in more of an Alex Honnold “free
solo” style. Guess we’ll take doubles of everything next time! (which
incidentally, there never will be for me!). Atop the pitch is a beautiful big
ledge from where to belay. I followed (actually climbing the pitch without aid
- yeh!) and we took a break before the final two pitches. Once again we were
delighted to see that no one was below us and so we could take our time and
enjoy (??) the climb.
The free climbing crux of the route is Pitch 4,
a short but steep wall with minimal and small holds. I had zero doubt that Dan
could free climb it and he did – another well done!! Aiding the pitch with
about as much grace as a drunk cow trying to play Twister, I then joined Dan on
The Sidewalk. The Sidewalk is a narrow slither of rock that leads to The Diving
Board and then onto the Corkscrew summit. The exposure for this pitch is as
nail-biting as it gets, especially for the lead climber. A slip off The
Sidewalk or Diving Board would result in a serious pendulum fall, since there
are no intermediate points of protection. An unroped slip would result in a fall
straight down to the valley bottom, several hundred metres below.
There was one upside to The Sidewalk – taking
out my phone to snap a photo I was surprised to find I now had phone reception.
Awesome – I was able to Facetime my brother, sister-in-law, and best friend
(Nicole) to go over my last will and testament (yeh again!).
Needless to say, Dan was going to lead the
final pitch. He carefully walked across The Sidewalk, and without even a pause
belly-flopped onto The Diving Board without incident. He then climbed the
Corkscrew, clipping a few bolts and the ropes around the summit along the way.
Success!!! Dan kneeled on the tiny summit for the classic Ancient Art photo op
and started down. I was incredibly impressed with and happy for Dan, having not
only achieved the summit, but also for having led the entire without any form
of aid.
As Dan was making his way down I had decided
that I was content to call The Sidewalk my summit and not attempt the true
summit. However, the wheels in my head started turning: I would be on top rope and chances are I would never return to
try again. By the time Dan had returned, I had changed my mind.
I did make a couple of simple modifications to
Dan’s ascent: instead of walking The Sidewalk, I bum-shuffled across it;
instead of belly-flopping onto The Diving Board, I crawled under it; and
instead of kneeling or standing on the summit, I belly-flopped onto it (figured
there should be some form of belly-flopping at one point). Even so, the ascent
was far from easy – no way in heck I would have been able to lead it, or any
other pitch of the ascent for that matter, save the first one. I did have a
minor flash of major anxiety when I thought as Dan was lowering me I might lose
contact with the rock and then just be left hanging in mid-air, hundreds of metres
above the valley floor with nothing to grab onto. However, he was able to lower
me directly onto The Diving Board, where I was able to slither down onto The
Sidewalk and then bum-shuffle back to the belay station. At least we both had a good
laugh about my little panic attack!
Three
rappels put us back on solid (and wide!) ground, as happy as two people
can be. A huge shout out to Dan for leading the route and
an even bigger thank you to him for getting me up this super cool
route.
As memorable a day in the mountains as I will ever have!
Hiking through the phenomenal terrain around Fisher Towers
Ancient Art is the unusually shaped formation just right of centre
Almost at the start. Ancient Art is now at the far left
The other party makes their way up
....giving us some time to pose and explore the area. Castleton Tower can just be seen at the right, in the distance.
The huge tower behind Dan is Cottontail Tower
Knowing there was a pretty sketchy belly-flop onto The Diving near the summit, Dan gets some practice on less exposed terrain
Dan sizes up the challenging 2nd pitch and then climbs it
Dan has now climbed the chimney pitch and is ready to belay me up
Admiring the scenery before I ascend pitch 3. Parriott Mesa is back there
Dan is on pitch 4 and getting ready to tackle the climbing crux of the route above him
On The Sidewalk, with The Diving Board and the Corkscrew Summit dead ahead!
Dan and Corkscrew
Face-timing on Ancient Art - welcome to 2019! (photo by Dan)
Dan looks down some of the route we had just come up. It's a long freefall to the bottom!
After
a successful belly-flop onto The Diving and ascent of most of the
Corkscrew, Dan reaches the all important ropes around the summit
Looking down at me from the ropes (photo by Dan)
Sweeeeeeet!! Hero of the Day at the summit.
Click HERE is see a short summit clip
Dan back on The Diving Board. It's no easy feat getting off that thing either!
My turn. I get the luxury of a top rope ascent, which allowed me to climb under The Diving Board (photo by Dan).
Quick wave from the ropes (photo by Dan)
Click HERE is see Dan's, short, almost summit clip
Summit belly-flop for me (photos by Dan)
Looking down at Dan and views from the summit rope
The mighty Kingfisher lies immediately east of Ancient Art
Dan rappels the third pitch (left) and then the first and second together (right)
A couple of different views of Ancient Art while hiking out
Last look at the spectacular summit. Unbelievable day!
