OX Peak

  
 
July 1, 2023
 
Mountain height: 2935 m
Elevation gain:    approximately 1200 m
Round-trip time:  9:05

Repeat ascents are no stranger to me. I’m into double digits for a few mountains and that list is likely to get bigger as I age and become more conservative in choosing objectives (a process that is already well under way!).
 
And then there’s the, “Glad I did it, but NEVER again” list. OX Peak, an unofficial outlier of unofficial OXO Peak has made that list, and will never see a repeat ascent from me (in this lifetime!). This is not to say OX doesn’t have any redeeming features: the approach is stunning, the ridgewalk to the top, very enjoyable, and the summit view is fantastic. Unfortunately, between the stunning approach and the enjoyable ridgewalk lies a “Whole Lotta’ Ugliness!”

An attempt of OX was inevitable, having already reached the summits of higher OXO and lower O – all unofficial summits of the massif east of Dolomite Peak. The easiest ascent route appeared to be a circuitous scree slog starting from near the pass west of OXO. However, I was hoping a more direct scrambling route would be revealed as I made my way up the valley. Unfortunately, all potential routes appeared to be blocked by vertical rock bands. I did eventually pick a promising looking gully and it did, in fact provide access to the upper slopes of OX, but a thing of beauty it was not, reminiscent of the challenging terrain on OXO. Steep, slick, hardened dirt inbetween the sections of solid rock took all the fun out of the scrambling here. I was definitely not coming down this route.

At this point of the day I was a little disillusioned, not only by the unaesthetic nature of the route but also by the unexpectedly less-than-perfect weather. All forecasts and satellite images had pointed to Canada Day of 2023 to be cloud-free in this neck of the woods, but a mix and Sun and cloud was all nature could muster up. Nevertheless, I wasn’t about to abandon ship yet.

Above the gully, the solid rock was replaced with tedious scree and rubble, still interspersed with the dirt - hardly an improvement. I eventually reached the ridge and started south, towards the summit. Not surprisingly, the summit wasn’t about to acquiesce easily. A slick downclimb that I dare not attempt forced me to backtrack, lose elevation and then side-slope across loose rubble back to the ridge. From that point to the summit was veritable bliss compared to what preceded it - a pleasant ridge walk, mostly on solid friction slabs with precipitous views down the east side. The summit view did not disappoint either, though obviously inferior to that from OXO.



After a very brief summit stay, I did attempt to see if there was a potential route down the south ridge, but that was short-lived. I couldn’t even make it to the end of the ridge due to several deep fissures. The only option was to return the same way. To avoid the steeper terrain encountered on ascent, I traversed far to the north, ending up on the lower portions of the OXO ascent route. Besides my waning energy levels, the remainder of the descent went with relative ease.

Three of the four sections of this trip were fantastic. Unfortunately, the hideousness of the third one will assure I never return to OX, as least by that route. But thanks for the memories!


First view of the some of OXO massif. OX Peak at the far and O Peak is the second from the right.
O is the only one I would repeat (in fact I already have!)


Another exhausting round of long exposure photos of the creek that goes to the OXO valley






















First view of OX



Looking back to Noseeum Peak



Not yet done with the long exposures!



Up and into the OXO valley. Left to right: an impressive outlier of Dolomite Peak, OXO, OX



Scowling at the cloud cover, but at least the one near the right looked cool



Close-up of the cool one



A very tenacious slab of snow hanging onto life and doing a great job of it!



Getting into the heart of this remarkable valley



The striking northeast outlier of Dolomite is going to get more photo attention than anything else on this trip. Let's call it "Dolly"!



The southeast shoulder of Dolomite Peak is a fantastic trip, described in Mike Potter's Ridgewalks in the Canadian Rockies. You can see the point where Mark and I stopped earlier this year - the steep drop-off, just right of centre.



Close-up of the drop



OXO at the left and OX at the right



Last opportunity for a long exposure photo! My ascent route would go between the summit of OXO and the wall of rock to the right.



Dolly



Another tenacious snowpatch in the main drainage



Dolly looking very aesthetic



If it wasn't a lowly outlier, I'm sure Dolly would receive some attention



View to the south includes Temple, Lefroy, and Victoria



Mount Hector



This looked like a good route



Unfortunately, the ugly moraine-like terrain negated the fun scrambling on solid rock



First glimpse of Cirque Peak



Looking over to the entire east side of Dolomite Peak



Onto even worse terrain. This slope is steeper than it appears and has zero redeeming features.



At least Cirque Peak still looks good



The summit of OXO and the wall of rock. At this point of the ascent I was only about 100 horizontal metres from the summit of OXO, but over a kilometres away from OX.



There's OX, but unseen is a tricky downclimb that prevented me from taking a direct route



View to the southeast



Southwest



West



Ready to side-slope to the col



Looking through a gap along the ridge



The east side of the massif is very steep



Another gap, and an unnamed tarn



Looking back to OXO. Clearly there used to be a glacier on the east side of the mountain.




Same as above, with more of the view



Mount Balfour



Mount Daly (left) and Vaux (distant right) still have glaciers



The summit cairn is close



Summit view from north to south



Summit view from southwest to north



South to west



OXO looks menacing, just like it's ascent route!



I think that's Recondite in the distant northeast



The Willingdons



Quartzite, Ramp and Mosquito. Still haven't been up Q or R!



Molarstone Mountain in the foreground and Cataract Peak in the distant centre



Noseeum and Hector



Still obsessing with OXO



The Willingdons again



Observation Peak and Mount Weed



Observation Subpeak in the centre, Patterson at the left and Forbes to the right of Patterson.



The north end of Dolomite and a small portion of the Wapta Icefield



Scenes on descent



Same as above



There are several colourful tarns in the valley southeast of Cirque







Cirque and two of the tarns




Back to the Dolly fixation



Looking up the start of the ascent route for OXO



Below the col and heading back



That snow bank in the drainage I saw earlier



Last long exposure photo



Last look at the unpleasant ascent route



At least Dolly is giving me some joy



Yes she is!



Glance over to O Peak



Pleasant hike out



Last look at OX



And Noseeum once again

The End

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