Baldy South VIII
February 25, 2025
Mountain height: 2140 m
Elevation gain: 900 m
Ascent time: 3:35
Descent time: 1:30
Scrambling with
Mark.
With Mark
having a very rare weekday off work, we headed into the mountains to see what
trouble we could get into! Unfortunately, the weather was forecast to be nasty
everywhere, except for the northern front ranges. Though an ascent of
Kananaskis Peak would have been our first choice, construction around the
parking area took that objective off the table. We finally settled on sort of
an experimental route on one of the three peaks of Mount Baldy. 
The goal would
be to gain the col between the north and south peaks from Kane’s alternate
descent route and then attempt either or both of those peaks.
Many years had
passed since the two of us went up or down the descent route, so the trip
generally felt quite new. However, I had visited Baldy Crag several times since
then. I had also completed a very interesting route up West Baldy’s Northwest
side in 2016 – it was good to see the first part of that one, as well as the
5.6 Slabby McSlabface climb that I did with Evan, a few years earlier.
Past Baldy Crag
we made good progress up the drainage, eventually veering off and up towards
the col between the north and south peaks. This part of the route, though long
and steep went surprisingly well. We topped out on the ridge closer to the
north peak than the south.
After a short
discussion, we agreed on attempting the north peak. Success would likely depend
on an almost complete lack of snow on the route. 
From our vantage point things
looked to be favorable. Unfortunately, such was not the case. We were able to
traverse a narrow section of the ridge to a point near the base of the climb to
the summit. Here, travel moves to the right (east) side of the ridge and that
terrain was completely snow covered. We did have crampons and ice axes, but
decided the risk was too great. An unarrested slip down the east side would
likely result in serious injury or death. Later in the day, we would recall
that three of us had completed this route in reverse almost exactly 21 years earlier
and had rappelled the first section and then set up a rope as a guideline for
the section Mark and I were presently on.
While it was
disappointing to be denied the north (true) summit, we had both forgotten what
a wonderful traverse follows to get to the south summit. The last time Mark and
I stood on the south peak was two years earlier, however we approached it from
Baldy Pass (also a terrific route).
We had no
delusions about trying to make the very snowy West Peak from the South.
Instead, we used Kane’s alternate descent route, from the South/West col.
Like Horton
Hill, two days earlier, not the grandeur trip we were hoping for, however, even
after 24 years of various routes up the three summits of Mount Baldy, the mountain continues to
satisfy with remarkable consistency.
New sign for Baldy Crag
Mary Barclay's Mountain. Attempted it once by walking across Barrier Lake when it was frozen.
Approaching the fork in the creek. Right goes to the challenging route up
West Baldy, left goes to Baldy Crag and the alternate descent route.
The two summits of Skogan Peak
Baldy's amazing West Peak
The Sun lights up the west ridge of Baldy's true (north) summit
Same as above
Trudging up steep snow slopes
Same as above
The West Peak again
No snow on the upper slopes
Mark approaches the ridge
Step 1 is done
We went south first to this nearby highpoint
Checking out the essentially snow-free north summit
Not the most spectacular view to the southeast, but Moose Mountain is visible
Heading to the north summit
Short break
And onward
The South Peak looks very cool from the north
We were quite optimistic about the snow conditions at this point
Still optimistic
Uh-oh!
This section of the ridge is very narrow and going down onto the snow slopes seemed too risky
Turning around
Next time, North Baldy
Another short break
For me too
South and West summits
Typical travel for the first section to the South Peak
Approaching the exciting finish to the traverse
Care is required for a few steps
The exciting finish
More care; it's mildly exposed here
Almost at the top
The summit cairn and a big stick
Summit views
Descending
The West Peak and col
The ridge from the North to South peaks boasts a few very cool, near-vertical slabs
Last look at the North Peak
The route down is very obvious and straightforward
Back onto the trail we made going up
Looking up the wonderful 3-pitch sport climb, Cedar City. Evan Roberts dragged me up this one twice!
Pointing out a few other few sport climbs I did with Dan
That nostalgic look at the Northwest Ridge of West Baldy again
Minutes away from the car
The End
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