Mount Jellicoe

Mount Jellicoe – March 22, 2008

Mountain height:         3075 m
Elevation gain:            approx 1450 m
Ascent time:                8:20
Descent time:              5:15

Snowshoeing and mountaineering with Mark and Ferenc.

Surprisingly, I’d have to classify this as one on our sweetest summits to date. Not to imply that the ascent was particularly challenging or some big achievement. A number of factors just seemed to conspire to make reaching the summit an unusually gratifying experience.

We got the idea for Mount Jellicoe from a trip report on the Ramblers website. It appeared to be a long but straightforward ascent in the astounding area comprised of mountains of the British Military Group. A very favourable weather forecast in the area was also a factor in choosing Jellicoe as an objective. Normally completed as a ski ascent in winter/spring, we chose snowshoes as our mode of transportation.

All started well, as we made our way up French Creek and onto the French Glacier under perfectly clear skies. Given that I had spent most of the previous day in bed with the flu, Ferenc and Mark graciously broke trail for almost the entire trip. In fact, Ferenc stormed up the French Glacier, breaking trail faster than Mark and I could follow in his footsteps.

We were a little disillusioned upon arriving at the Haig Glacier to see clouds streaming in from the west. It actually made for some very atmospheric scenery, but we were hoping for completely clear skies all day and wondered if the weather would worsen. As we plodded down the Haig Glacier to the southwest slopes of Mount Jellicoe, the weather did break down, and views were severely limited – an extremely frustrating turn of events.

At the bottom of the objective, we traded snowshoes for ice axes and crampons and started up the 35 degree southwest slopes. Thankfully, the snow on these slopes was stable. Higher up, however, the grade appeared to be steeper and so we made our way over to the gentler south ridge. More disappointment, as we ascended the south ridge towards the summit. It was quite apparent that the view would have been spectacular from this vantage point. Instead, we got a whole lot of nothing as clouds blanketed the area. Only the corniced south ridge and a precipitous drop over the east face provided some entertainment.

About 70 horizontal and 3 vertical metres from the summit, the ridge suddenly narrowed to an alarming degree. As well it was lined with a significant cornice and discerning where the rock ended became very difficult. Ferenc went ahead to check out the situation and pronounced it to be grim. Given the almost non-existent view, we really couldn’t justify risking the traverse and decided to call this point this summit for day. Well not quite…….

Two things Mark and I have learned over the years are: 1. looks are often deceiving and one should always at least attempt a difficult looking section before backing down; 2. if you can be on the summit of a mountain at 4 pm, do it – that is often when cloudy skies will clear.

It was 3:15 pm, Mark and I had a rope and a few slings, and nothing to lose by at least checking out the traverse. A few rock horns provided good anchors and Mark belayed me across the ridge. In fact, it was easier than looks dictated, although the exposure was daunting. At times, the ridge appeared to be no more than 15-20 cm wide. I wasn’t about to test that assumption by stepping out onto the cornice to see if there was actually rock beneath the snow. I thought the final few metres before the summit would be the crux, but again, it looked far scarier than it actually was. At 3:50, I stepped onto the summit and belayed Mark over.

To our surprise, Ferenc suddenly started to make his way over without a rope. He carefully negotiated the narrow ridge to the summit in a fraction of the time it took Mark and me. Mark asked Ferenc why he decided to come over and Ferenc said “Because you guys didn’t fall!” That’s as good an answer as any. The three of us were elated to arrive at this summit.

Though not perfectly clear, the sky had partially cleared out by this time and the views were some of the best we’d ever seen. Highlights of the panorama were the beautifully aesthetic south ridge and west face of Mount Smith-Dorrien, the huge forms of Mounts French, Robertson and Sir Douglas, the entire Opal Range stretched out to the east, with the Highwood Range further south, and innumerable snow-blanketed peaks around the Kananaskis Lakes. On a perfect day, this vista would have been unbeatable.

The skies continued to clear out as we made our descent. Slogging 140 vertical metres back up to the Haig/French glacier col was mind-numbing, though the outstanding scenery helped to alleviate the misery. In my depleted state, even descending the easy French Glacier seemed to take far more effort than it should have done. We arrived back at the car at 9:15 pm, for a roundtrip time of 13 hours, 45 minutes. An extremely rewarding day!

Ferenc passes by someone’s artwork; looks like a strong Cezanne influence

Taking a break, with Mount Robertson behind

Ferenc breaks trail up the French Glacier

Mark comes up the glacier; Piggy Plus, Commonwealth, and Burstall behind

Same as above

Me and Ferenc on the Haig Glacier, taking in the atmospheric scenery

Ferenc, with the summit of Sir Douglas just left of centre

More “atmosphere”

Heading down the Haig Glacier; Mount Jellicoe ahead

Stopping to look at a buried snow machine

Ascending the southwest slopes

Same as above

Ferenc heads for the south ridge

On the south ridge

Some impressive cornice scenery to distract us from the fact that we could see nothing else

Ferenc leads us up to the false summit

Ferenc waiting at the false summit

The “dicey” looking traverse to the true summit

Setting up an anchor (photo by Ferenc)

The second part of the traverse

Looking back at Mark and Ferenc

Approaching the crux (photo by Ferenc)

At the crux (photo by Ferenc)

Mark’s turn; Mount French behind

The final few metres to the summit (photo by Ferenc)

At the summit (photo by Ferenc)

Mark completes the traverse and Ferenc prepares to come over

Ferenc completes the traverse

At the summit, with Mount French to the left and Mount Smith-Dorrien to the right

Ferenc at the top

Mark at the top, with a view to the south

The beautiful west face and south ridge of Smith-Dorrien

Heading back over the ridge (photo by Ferenc)

Same as above

Same as above (photo by Ferenc)

Mark re-ascends the false summit, with the Haig Glacier about 400 vertical metres below (photo by Ferenc)

Ferenc leads the way back down the south ridge

Mark and Ferenc low on the south ridge; the long ridge of Black Prince, Warspite,
Invincible, and Indefatigable stretches south; Joffre is visible at the far right