Mount Jimmy Simpson III
September
6, 2014
Mountain
height: 2966 m
Elevation gain: 1000 m
Ascent
time: 5:20
Descent
time: 2:25
Scrambling
with Rob.
Not
only was I very excited to take another run up Mount Jimmy Simpson, but
thrilled
to have Rob along for the ride. Rob is a terrific scrambler, a terrific
musician,
and a terrific human being (I am also all three, but hesitate to apply
the adjective "terrific" for any of them!). I thoroughly enjoy Rob's
company.
We
would be attempting to gain the south ridge one of my favourite peaks in the
Rockies, Mount Jimmy Simpson, and follow it to the summit – a route reported to
be low 5th class. Since we knew we could descend the easy “normal” route,
the objective was to scramble up the harder route without any technical gear.
After
the typical awe-inspiring jaunt around the north side of Bow Lake, we left the
trail, taking the standard route up Jimmy. Once in the upper valley we took a
sharp right turn, ascending scree slopes to intercept the south ridge. The trip
immediately took on a more serious nature at this point. Confronted with a significant
rock step, Rob gave it a go but backed down about halfway up. We then took an
exposed line around the east side and scrambled back up to the ridge. Unfortunately,
even more challenging terrain lie ahead. 
With a rope and some protection we may
have tried, but neither was at hand and so we backed down.
The
good news was that we didn’t have to return to the normal route, soon finding a weakness
that brought us back to the south ridge, but above the difficulties. Once
back on the ridge, an easy and scenic hike led to the summit.
With
clear skies in every direction, the summit view was incredible – easily one of
the best in this neck of the woods. We stayed at the top for a very long time
before descending the standard route.
Not
getting up the south ridge proper was mildly disappointing, but everything else
about this trip was top notch – the scenery, the views, the challenges, and mostly
the terrific company! Hopefully not the last time I see this summit and/or
scramble with Rob.
Fueling up and checking the map at the Lake Louise gas station. Mount Temple at the left.
Bow Lake reflections on a cloudless day are "Simply the Best". RIP, the incomparable Tina Turner; I think she would love this cover from Schitt's Creek.
The Onion, Portal Peak, and Mount Thompson
Looking the other way, you get to see some of Crowfoot Mountain, Bowcrow Peak, Bow Peak, Mount Hector, and Mount Andromache
Jimmy Simpson behind Jimmy Junior
Mount Olive, St. Nicholas, and The Onion
The hike around the lake is so amazing
The north end of Crowfoot Mountain. The true summit is some distance away (photo by Rob).
A group taking a break below the southeast slopes of Jimmy
Portal and Thompson peaking over a ridge that leads to an unnamed summit west
of Jimmy Simpson. Mark and I accidentally ended up on that ridge and
summit on our first ascent of Jimmy.
Sometime later we are fighting through the brush to the hanging valley under Jimmy
The south ridge we want to ascend appears
The colour of Bow Lake is exquisite!
Rob in the hanging valley. The normal route goes to the col, just left of centre. We traversed way over to the right.
Better look at the route ahead and the south ridge (photo by Rob)
Not sure what my problem is here! (photo by Rob)
Much of the bulk of Crowfoot Mountain is revealed
The south ridge is at the right and we have to traverse over there at this point
Lots of stunning rock en route
Same as above
Same as above
Reaching the ridge, a beautiful tarn below Jimmy Junior is seen
Jimmy Junior at the right and the viciously steep walls of Jimmy Simpson's south ridge at the left
The contrasting colours of the tarn and Bow Lake contribute significantly to the grandeur of the views from Jimmy
Rob takes the final few steps to the ridge
We are immediately confronted with this rock step
Rob gets about halfway up before we decide it's above our pay grade!
Rob downclimbs the step
This view is going to get alotta' luv'!
The narrow ledge we are going to traverse to bypass that rock step
Took a break here to take in the great view (photo by Rob)
Easy does it here (photo by Rob)
Rob prepares to tackle the ledge
Heading up (left) and coming down (right) after reaching an impasse on the ridge
Passing under some big overhangs
Returning the way we came for now
View over to the Wapta Icefield
Found an easy route back up to the ridge
Here comes Rob
The route was bit of a slog but the rock scenery was great
Back on the ridge
And there's the summit (photo by Rob)
And there's Bow Lake
Both of the above
Mount Thompson looks formidable from here
The view just keeps getting better
Rob leads the first part of the final push to the summit
My turn, to get the stellar view behind
Same as above
Love the colours Rob captured here (photo by Rob)
Little snow bank to ascend
Mount Baker
Perhaps I love Mount Jimmy Simpson so much because the red/burgundy rock near the summit reminds me of Southern Alberta!
The multiple lakes and tarns are also a stunning feature of the trip
And of course the icefields
Last stretch to the summit
Rob at the top
Happy Days! (photo by Rob)
Rob's classic summit pose!
And again!
Rob signs the register
His entry (photo by Rob)
Summit panoramas
Summit views
My favourite pano
Mount Habel (centre) and Mount Rhondda (far left)
Descending
Time to make haste before darkness sets in
The descent route is also tedious in places (photo by Rob)
A fallen tree right out of a horror movie! (photo by Rob)
Late day reflections in the lake are rare so we are going to milk this one!
Last one and fitting end to an awesome day!
The End
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