Chief Lodgepole Peak
Painted Tepee
Peak
July 15, 2024
Mountain heights: 2345 m, 2332 m
Elevation gain: 880 m
Ascent time: 6:00
Descent time: 3:45
Lots of hiking
and a bit of intensely scary scrambling with Mark and Raff.
Talk about “a
sting in its tail”!!
An ascent of
Painted Tepee Peak, in Glacier National Park, is all hiking except the last 20
metres. However, that last section will likely have every hair on your body
standing on end, including the ones “you don’t talk about at
parties”! 
Thankfully we had our secret weapon with us, and his name is
Raff! (not Jack Nicholson)
Painted had
long been on our to-do list, as apparently it boasts a wide variety of your
classic Glacier National Park colours. Raff liked the idea too and by 8:30 am
we were off on our way, along the south shore of Two Medicine Lake. 
That last
time I had hiked any of this trail was back in 2010 en route to Sinopah Mountain.
There were
several scenic treats along the 10 km hike to Cobalt Lake, including a moose eating
in a marsh with her calf nearby, a beautiful section of stream, and the
fascinating and immense southeast side of Mount Rockwell. From the lake we
continued on the excellent trail up towards the Chief Lodgepole/Painted Tepee
ridge. The scenery and views here were spectacular and improved throughout.
Also
spectacular was the increasing wind speed. Although there was barely a wisp of
wind in the valley, once we hit ridge the gale-force winds came out to play!
This area is reported to be the windiest in the entire park and it was
certainly living up to its reputation. Nevertheless, the summit was Chief
Lodgepole (the highest point of the ridge) was reached with ease, via the clearly
defined trail.
We
didn’t stay
at the Lodgepole summit for long, now a little anxious about the
upcoming difficulties
on Painted Tepee combined with the ferocious wind. Using Blake
Passmore’s
directions we made our way to the far end of the ridge. This is where
the wonderful colours came out in full force. It was also where the
mountain pretty much
disappeared except for a super narrow and exposed ridge to the summit.
Horrified would
be the best way to describe our reaction upon seeing this section – 
an up and
down, haphazard conglomeration of precariously balanced blocks that looked like
a miraculous, horizontal Jenga triumph! Had Mark and I been alone we probably would have
called it a day here. Raff, however, was up to the challenge. We did have a
30-metre rope and a few slings so we decided it couldn’t hurt to set up some
protection along the way. If nothing else, it would prevent death as being the
likely outcome of a slip off the ridge – or lack of a ridge I should say!
Off Raff went,
as Mark and I watched with bated breath. It was a slow and cautious traverse,
but Raff skillfully negotiated the ridge and gave us a triumphant pose from
the top. I followed and Mark came over last. Even on belay we still both took
longer than Raff on lead! Our summit stay was short but rewarding. For a low
peak surrounded by significantly higher ones, the view packs quite a punch.
Getting back across
the ridge was also a slow and time-consuming process, but once down the remainder
of the trip was a veritable cakewalk. We did take a shortcut down to Cobalt
Lake, before the long hike back to the start.
What a fantastic
day on a fantastic mountain! Amazing scenery and views, colourful rock, and a
nail-biting finish. Once again, big shout-out to Raff for being the hero of the
day!
The kayaks at the Two Medicine Lake shore foreshadow the variety of
mountain colours we will soon see. Painted Tepee (small peak at the
left) and Sinopah Mountain (centre).
Rising Wolf Mountain on the north side of the lake. Definitely want another run up that one, but with clear skies.
All of the above
A marshy area with Rising Wolf above. Took a while to spot her, but there's a moose in the water.
There she is (assuming is a female because a calf was nearby)
The calf is just visible at the right
The folks in GNP know how to build trails. The trail system in the park
is magnificent! They also have some super interesting mountain names -
the peak at the left is called Never Laughs Mountain. "Never Laughs" is
a Blackfeet family name.
Another marshy area with a fine view
Crossing the suspension bridge over Paradise Creek, with the impressive east face of Sinopah ahead
Never Laughs and Painted Tepee
Close-up of the east side of Painted
Gaining elevation towards Sinopah (photo by Raff)
The route up Sinopah goes up the second gully from the right
Further along the Sinopah/Rockwell massif
The one place where the trail gets close to the creek is a beautiful spot
Me, Raff, the creek, and the massive southeast side of Mount Rockwell
We have now hiked way past the pinnacled summit ridge of Painted
Close-up of the ridge. The summit is at the far end (left side).
Cobalt Lake
The trail quickly gains elevation above the lake
Rockwell's summit at the left
Still hiking away from the objective
But who cares when the scenery is this good! (photo by Raff)
All part of magnificent Mount Rockwell
One with magnificent Raff!
Leaving the trail briefly to gain the Lodgepole ridge
Lots of cool red argillite (photo by Raff)
This slope was one of the highlights of the trip featuring:
...great views of Cobalt Lake,
...great views of Rockwell, with wildflowers,
...and tons of bright red argillite
Almost at the ridge
Arrived.
A cool quartet of mountains to the southwest: Statuary Mountain, Church
Butte, Vigil Peak, and Battlement Mountain.
Big cairn on the ridge, but it's not the summit of Chief Lodgepole
Raff gains the ridge
Minor elevation loss before heading up to Lodgepole
More wildflowers
Rewarding views to the south
Lodgepole is the bump just right of centre. The bigger peak at the far right is Grizzly Mountain.
Small lake below Mount Despair
Still enamoured with Rockwell
Mount Saint Nicholas (left) peaks out from behind Vigil
Mount Despair
Grizzly Mountain
Grizzly with humans (photo by Raff)
Cobalt Lake reappears
Close-up of Two Medicine Lake (photo by Raff)
The view of Rockwell, Painted, and the valley between them would be cause for many photos
Chief Lodgepole dead ahead and the trail to get there is great!
The final grind before the summit plateau
Surprising mound of snow hanging onto life
View from the mound
Mark and Raff stroll over to the snow
We all get our turn on the snow
Add Cobalt Lake to the view for some GNP magic
Raff checks out the view over the lake
No mistaking where the summit is!
Massive Rising Wolf behind Rockwell and Sinopah (photo by Raff)
Pretty killer summit view (minus the sketchy human)
Heading to Painted (photo by Raff)
Mark and Raff descend to the col
Lodgepole and Rockwell
There's lots of bright red argillite on Painted
And some green foliage
Grizzly Mountain is on the to-do list but not anytime soon. Rockwell first.
About time something yellow besides my yellow jacket made an appearance
Approaching the long line of pinnacles on the ridge (photo by Raff)
Short snack break before the fun starts
The first of many impressive pinnacles along the Painted ridge
The second
Mark's view of those ones
We stayed low on slopes but higher up would have been better
Same as above (photo by Raff)
Eventually we had to regain that elevation (photo by Raff)
Same as above
Aiming for that mushroom shaped rock near the right
The dark rock atop a band of red argillite is reminiscent of Mount Dungarvan's summit block
A striking block of layered rock
Mount Henry and Ellsworth Mountain, right of centre - a very memorable day
Below the mushroom
Raff leads the way to the summit ridge
I follow
Doesn't look very mushroom-like from this angle
Gearing up
Raff is ready to lead us to glory!
Off he goes
Mark waits to see how things are progressing (photo by Raff)
Raff is about halfway across the scary ridge. It's way more exposed than it looks!
Glory!
Raff gets another shot of Two Medicine Lake while Mark and I are trying to muster up enough courage to start the ridge traverse (photo by Raff)
Debating on who goes first (photo by Raff)
Guess it was me (photo by Raff)
Summit view to the southwest (photo by Raff)
Mark's turn (photo by Raff)
Hero of the Day!
Me and Raff at the top
Mount Rockwell stretched out in front of us
If you are going to scare yourself to death might as well do it on red argillite! (photo by Raff)
Magnificent view to the northeast
Same as above with Raff
Raff has already made it back across the ridge and we are again debating to see who goes first! (photo by Raff)
Guess it was Mark
My turn (photo by Raff)
Must learn to crawl before you can walk! (photo by Raff)
Raff on safer ground and that great view
Close-up
Two very relieved siblings! (photo by Raff)
Back at the non-mushroom rock
Leaving the non-mushroom (photo by Raff)
Grizzly framed between parts of Painted
Some of the coolest colours of the day occurred here
Same as above
We wisely decided to stay near the pinnacles on return
That's why
Same as above
Rockwell definitely won the "most photographed" competition
Henry, Ellsworth, and Raff got their fair share too
Wickedly cool summit ridge
Here, we went over to the other side of the ridge
Last look at Ellsworth and some sweet red rock
Heading for the shortcut descent route that goes directly to Cobalt Lake (photo by Raff)
Same as above
It's a steep but straightforward affair
Looking down the route
Wish this beauty was getting some direct Sun
Halfway down
Approaching the lake
No shortage of red rock here
Passing by a massive boulder
Mark and the boulder
Resting those numb feet
Back at that cool section of the creek
Same as above
Part of the long, but scenic and colourful hike out. Never Laughs Mountain at the right.
Rockwell Falls - a short and very worthwhile diversion
With Raff
Back across the suspension bridge
Aster Falls - also a nice diversion
Back at the start and the boats have now been turned over. The three of us felt the same way!
The End
LOG
