Phantom Crag
June 20, 2021
Mountain height: 2335 m
Elevation gain: 970
m
Ascent time: 4:40
Descent time: 3:20
Scrambling and a little climbing with Mark.
This beautiful little peak had long been on our
to-do list. Cornelius Rott’s excellent trip report and a relatively recent
visit to the area doubly increasing our motivation to give the distinctive
mountain a go. Given varying accounts of the peak’s difficulty, from difficult
scrambling to easy climbing, we decided to treat the ascent as a technical
climb and would take with us an over-abundance of climbing gear.
The only unpleasant surprise of the day was
the condition of the access road. Reverting to its former self, the road was
pot-holed, bumpy and just not fun to drive. Fortunately, that was followed by a
pleasant surprise. At this time of the year, we expected to be able to make it
down the “Big Hill” but no further, due to braids of the Ghost River blocking
the way. None existed and we were able to drive several kilometres up the
valley, as we did for our Black Rock Mountain trip.
A “rookie mistake” (from two non-rookies!)
was made shortly after. We forded the chilly Ghost River, ditched our river
crossing footwear, changed into our hiking footwear, and continued up the
valley towards the ascent route; not realizing that the braided river was
exactly that! Confronted with another braid in the river, we were forced to
turn around, retrieve our footwear, and then complete another ford. As such, an
hour into the trip and we could still see our vehicle, not more than 400 m away
– oops!
Thankfully, that blunder was an isolated one (almost)
and what followed what simply wonderful! The canyon-like ascent drainage
provided amazing rock scenery and a neat little trail allowed us to gain the
upper drainage with ease. After circumventing a particularly steep rock band,
we should have returned to the drainage, but instead just went straight up,
through increasingly bushy terrain – that was Blunder #1.5 (not quite a
2!). Eventually we did regain the drainage and
then ascended easily to the ridge. Once again, the scenery was far better than we
were expecting.
Arriving at the crux of the trip, we decided to
use all the climbing gear we had dragged up the mountain – it simply didn’t
make sense not to. While steep and exposed, the crux rock band was also relatively
short, and comprised of incredibly solid rock, with great hand- and footholds.
It was a joy to ascend but would be quite challenging to descend without a rope
– a sentiment confirmed by the rappel sling we found at the top.
The remainder of the ascent unfolded with
ease, occasional views of the Ghost Lakes providing some pleasant views to go
with the already awesome views of the surrounding area. We took a long summit
break to take it all in and then made our way back to the crux. Rappelling the
crux very much reminded us of a similar mountain in the area – Devil’s Head.
Mark had managed to downclimb the crux on Devil’s Head, but both Raff and I rappelled
it and I would say that most scramblers would likewise rappel. As such, I would
characterize Phantom Crag (and Devil’s Head) as a climb, not as scramble.
Lower down we decided to take a little detour
over to the east side of the mountain for some additional views, but learning from
Blunder #1.5 we then traversed back into the drainage to avoid the bushwhack and
check out the seriously cool rock along the way. Another enjoyable descent of
the canyon followed and then, after picking up our river crossing footwear, we
simply walked across the river in our boots – the car was only a few minutes
away.
Going in, we did have high hopes for this ascent,
but clearly they weren't high enough! A totally awesome trip!
Phantom Crag, as seen from the access road...
...as seen from where we parked
Mark looks for the decent place to cross the Ghost River
Black Rock Mountain, on the other side of the valley
Mark crosses the chilly Ghost River. River crossing's remain our least favourite aspect of mountain trips!
Lots of impressive rock to gawk at in this valley
Approaching the canyon-like section of the ascent drainage
Still gawking
The great trail in the trees that gets you above the first difficult step
Looking down the ascent drainage and over to Black Rock
A cairn here and there is usually quite reassuring
The next section leads to another steep wall
Great water-worn rock to walk on
Mark leads the way around the steep wall
Emerging from the bush after Blunder #1.5
Slogging up the ridge, with the higher, western outlier of Phantom
looking very tempting (as a scramble around the north side, not
climbing right up it!)
Views to the north continue to open up. Devil's Head can now be seen, near the left.
The outlier and lichen on some remarkably solid rock
Mark and the outlier
The results of the fire that destroyed the forest around Black Rock Mountain, in September of 2020, is now clearly visible
Close-up of Black Rock
From this angle, the outlier looks super impressive
That's because it is!
Near the ridge and exploring a little around the base of the outlier
Same as above
There's Phantom Crag, also known as Devil's Fang
Mark and a big chunk of rock
With the outlier
Now on the ridge, the view to the south is revealed
Time to continue with the ascent
At the base of the climbing section
Checking out the rock on the crux, without a rope. It was super solid, with great holds.
Starting up the crux with a rope
And rock shoes! Overkill, but not!
Atop the crux
Approaching the summit block
Still some scrambling needed to get to the top, but again on wonderfully solid rock
Great view to the north and a big chunk of the ascent route
The Ghost Lakes and the bit of Lake Minnewanka finally show up at the left
The vertiginous north side of Phantom Crag
More scrambling
Followed by some ledge walking
Final few steps of scrambling
The summit cairn and view to the north
The southeast side of Phantom is a fascinating study in tiered rock layers
Still fixated on the Ghost Lakes. It appears that the eastern-most lake has all but dried up.
Close-up
More water scenery, with the Ghost River. That one hopefully won't
dry up anytime in the near or far off future, however, it's
interesting to see how wide the river was in the past.
As well as the awesome ascent route, the stellar weather kept us smiling throughout
Mark on the cairn
Mount Costigan. Phantom is essentially the eastern-most outlier of Costigan.
Orient Point to the south
Enjoying a last look before the descent
Mark rappels the crux
My turn
Orient Point (left), Saddle Peak (right), and the dried-up Ghost Lake
Traversing to the eastern edge
One of only a few remaining snow patches on the mountain
Heading to the far east side
Mark follows
Looking back at the summit block of Phantom
The eastern extension was home to some colourful rock
The other snow patch we encountered, back in the main drainage
Yet more awesome rock to descend in the drainage
A couple of small waterfalls...
...to cool off in
Back to where we took our first break
The impressive walls of the mountain continue to impress
Checking out a bolted section of rock
The burnt and blackened slopes of Black Rock
Hiking back to the river crossing
Going back across the Ghost
The End
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