Ptarmigan Peak





 
June 27, 2022
 
Mountain height: 3059 m
Elevation gain:    1400 m
Round-trip time:  10:35
 
Scrambling and some mountaineering with Mark.
 
Ptarmigan Peak had long been on my radar, give its earth-shattering, colourful, lake-filled summit view. Unfortunately, I neglected to consider the fact most of the lakes in the Skoki area sit at an elevation of around 2400 metres – 700 metres higher than already thawed Lake Louise. In addition, an unusually snowy and cool spring meant that many areas in the Rockies were in more of a mid-May condition than late June. Nevertheless, even without views of the colourful hues of the area lakes, this trip was a resounding success, and we couldn’t have asked for more.    
 
We biked the 4 km access road then starting hiking towards Boulder Pass, enjoying terrific views of the objective under clear skies. The plan was to approach the peak from a point close to Boulder Pass as opposed to the normal route via Hidden Lake.
 
Approaching the pass, a striking group of hoodoo-like rock formations caught our attention and so we left the trail to check them out. They were expectedly magnificent, and we took our first break here. From this vantage point we could see that Ptarmigan Lake was still frozen and still covered in a blanket of snow – no colourful lakes today!
 
The terrain and scenery above the rock formations were sublime – meadowy terrain, interspersed with rock outcrops, and all backdropped by beautifully snowy Ptarmigan Peak. Also, it quickly became clear that the ascent from this point one would be more of an alpine one than a simple scramble. The crampons and ice axes came out and up we went. Though never alarmingly steep, were a few sections that reared up to about 40 degrees. Thankfully the snow felt bomber throughout.
 
After a very foreshortened ascent we arrived at the ridge to find (not surprisingly) it was severely corniced – great for photos but not so good for travel. The crux followed in short order. Kane describes it as follows, “Just before the highest point at the east end, the ridge dips and narrows for 5 m directly below a long, narrow gully cleaving the south side.” Without snow this section would probably have been inconsequential, but there was snow and lots of it. We had a decision to make: call it a day and retreat or whip out the climbing gear and proceed. Fortunately, we had decided to bring harnesses, a rope, and a few slings with us. They worked perfectly. We were able to sling a few rocks, providing some level of security. A plod to the summit followed and then a short but very rewarding summit stay. The winter-like summit panorama was magnificent, it’s only shortcoming the huge cornice that prevented views down the east side of the mountain. Unfortunately, that meant the Skoki Lakes were not visible at all.
 
Retracing our steps back across the exposed section was much easier and we even managed to get a look at Zigadenus and Myosotis lakes (Skoki Lakes). We then traversed to another highpoint along the ridge that again boasted outstanding views – in some ways better than the true summit.


 
Except for one of my crampons breaking, the descent went without a hitch and the bike ride down was criminally easy.    
 
A most memorable and rewarding day out.   


End of the bike approach and start of the hike into the Skoki area. Mount Richardson, West Pika Peak, East Pika Peak, and Ptarmigan Peak are all visible.



Close-up of Ptarmigan



The Pika's, Ptarmigan, and Corral Creek



Looking back to massive Mount Temple



On one of huge boulders near Boulder Pass



East Pika, Ptarmigan, and the interesting rock formations we were drawn to



Mark leads us up to the rock



Taking a quick break at the base of the rock



Definitely a face in the rock above Mark



More cool rock



There's a face in there somewhere!



Traversing the base



Another face!



Interesting rock formations with an arch



Had to get a closer look



Looking up through the arch



Approaching the end of the formations



Taking a longer break



Tricky step requiring stemming snow and rock. Of course there was a super easy route around it!



Enjoying the stunning environs below Ptarmigan



Same as above



Mark and the east side of Redoubt Mountain



Nice, steppy terrain



Lots of snow for late June



Ptarmigan Lake is still snow-covered. Heather Ridge at the right.



Easy snow slopes to begin with



Mark is dwarfed by Ptarmigan



The terrain steepens



Checking out a small overhang of snow - foreshadowing!



Looking back to Redoubt



Crampons and ice axe time



Resuming travel



Above another small cornice



A short section of steeper terrain



Mark ascends the steep part



Back onto easier slopes



Hidden Lake is also snow-covered



Looking up the very foreshortened slopes



Mark leads the entire upper section



Mount Richardson




Typical grade of the ascent, but it does get steeper



Final few steps of the last steep section



East Pika (left) and West Pika



The other highpoint we would visit after the true summit



Finally at the ridge



True summit at the right and other summit at the left



Mark reaches the ridge



Close-up of the corniced ridge. The huge summit cairn is visible.



Staying well away from the edge



The magnitude of the cornices is now visible



They are big!!



View to the north



There's a cairn at the false summit



The true summit and severely corniced ridge. We used the rocks at the lower right and one near the false summit to belay.



Mark belays me from near the false summit.



Setting up a station for the second pitch



Mark at the third station



Looking back to me at 2



Easy plod to the summit after the exposed section



Success!



View to the southeast. Not surprisingly Baker Lake is snow-covered.



Hiking down the ridge to see if we can get a better view



Mount Douglas (left) and Mount St. Bride



View to the west



View to the north


Lake Louise and the giants around it



Molar Mountain and Molar Tower



Richardson, East Pika, and distant Mount Balfour



Back at the section where we used a rope



Scrambled up the rocks at the second station to get a view of the Skoki Lakes



There they are - Zigadenus is the half visible closer one; the other is Myosotis



As Alan mentions, the northeast face of Ptarmigan is basically straight down



Halfway across



The final few metres back to the false summit



Heading for the highpoint in the centre



Much better view of the Skoki Lakes



Same as above



Looking back along the ridge to the true summit



You could continue along the ridge but would eventually be stopped at the daunting east ridge of East Pika



Off the steep snow and taking an alternate route down



Same as above



The alternate descent route required another round of steep snow but it was straightforward



We even got some glissading in




Mark descends easier terrain through this magical area



Me and Redoubt



Yep - it's magical!



Stunning view to the east



We followed a drainage back to the trail



Nice curve!



Parting look at Ptarmigan and the area



Can't get enough of Redoubt



The creek that drains Hidden Lake and Richardson



Hiking out - lots of snow melted during the day



Another fast-flowing creek



Last look at Ptarmigan before the ridiculously easy bike ride down

The End

LOG