Surprise Pass loop
March 3,
2019
Pass height: approximately 2480 m
Elevation gain: approximately 800 m
Roundtrip
time: 6 hours
Snowshoeing with Mark.
A year and a week after an awesome day on Saddle
Mountain, we returned to the Lake Louise area to attempt a similar trip in the outrageously
beautiful valley that sits south of the lake. A starting temperature of -34
degrees Celsius was not ideal, but the crystal clear skies were – I’ll take
clear and brutally cold over cloudy and comfortably warm any day!
The first part of the trip unfolded with splendid
predictability. No matter how many times you complete the ascent to Saddleback
Pass, the experience of watching Haddo Peak slowly appear over the horizon
on the final ascent slope is as thrilling as it was the first time. En route we
were passed by a solo snowshoer heading up Fairview Mountain and moving at Mach
3. This kid was fit and fast!
A spellbinding traverse across the south side of Fairview
Mountain followed. This was the first time Mark and I had traveled this deep
into the valley and more stunning it could not have been. In addition to the
striking and aesthetic form of Haddo Peak, Mount Aberdeen was soon to make a
grand appearance, its “normal” route up looking fierce! Farther up the valley a
duo of skiers caught up to us and after pleasant greetings we moved over; their
skiing speed being somewhat faster than our plodding snowshoe pace.
Perhaps one of the highlights of the trip was the hidden,
“surprise” ascent gully that leads to the pass. Amid the towering walls of the
unnamed peak southwest of Fairview Mountain and those of Haddo and Aberdeen
there doesn’t seem to be any route whatsoever to higher terrain. However, an
easy gully magically appears and once at the base, it’s a relatively short and
not too steep ascent to the pass. It’s also a wonderfully scenic ascent, with
beautiful walls of quartzite rock on the left side of the gully and impressive
views of Aberdeen to the south.
At the pass we caught up to the skiers and introductions
were made – Stephen Michalchuk and Alex Savignac, both with impressive mountain
resumes (yes, I Goggled them when I got home!). Check out some of Stephen’s amazing
mountain photography here.
The view from the Pass was a little disappointing – but
then Surprise Pass is really just a 15 m wide notch in the long ridge that
joins Fairview Mountain and Mount Aberdeen. Mounts St. Piran and Niblock were
visible to the north but not much else. Scrambling up to higher terrain to the
northeast looked mighty tempting and I’m sure we’ll return to give it a go on a
day when the air temperature isn’t more reminiscent of that on Neptune (-200
degrees Celsius for those looking for a unique vacation spot!)
After watching Alex and Stephen skillfully descend the
initially quite steep descent route down the north side of the pass, it was our
turn. Although the grade looked as though it may warrant boot crampons and an
ice axe, the crampons on our snowshoes were completely up to the task and we
descended the steepest section with relative ease. All was going very well
until one of Mark snowshoes suddenly went flying down the mountain. We
retrieved it only to find one of the straps had snapped and was irreparable. He
attempted to descend with only one snowshoe but the postholing with the
shoeless foot was quite severe. Fortunately, we were able to fashion a
makeshift snowshoe strap with the strap from my camera case – onward and
downward!
The remainder of the descent was easy and wonderfully scenic,
with stellar views of mounts Victoria and Whyte and then of course, the always
enjoyable tromp across frozen Lake Louise.
An outstanding day on an outstanding route.
The impressive east side of Fairview Mountain ALWAYS gets some photo attention
Mount Hector also gets some love
Mist in the Bow Valley. Pilot Mountain at the far right
The appearance of Saddle Mountain is another of the early highlights of the Saddleback Pass ascent
Mark and peaks of the Skoki area to the right
Another obligatory photo of Fairview's stunning east side
Here comes Haddo
The speedy snowshoer leaves us in the dust (powder). "Speedy snowshoer" - is that an oxymoron?!
He makes it into the Sun; Fairview Mountain dead ahead
Mark, with Saddle Mountain behind
My turn to enjoy the wonderful rays of the Sun
The mediocre view at Saddleback Pass!
Haddo Peak
Great traverse around Fairview
Looking back to Saddle Mountain
Could Haddo be more perfect?
Sheol Mountain - terrific Kane scramble
More traversing
An ascent of the southwest outlier of Fairview looked quite intriguing, although a winter attempt also looked quite insane!
Mark leads the descent into the valley
He's already down, while I continue to be mesmerized by Haddo
Travel now goes up the other side of the valley
Here comes Alex Savignac
Alex and Stephen pass us and lead the way to the pass
We settle for our slow, plodding pace!
Spectacular scenery all around
These gullies looked tempting too but they are considerably steeper than they appear
Alex approaches the Surprise Pass ascent gully; the slither of snow just to the right of him
That gully looks very inviting - when its not a major avalanche trap
Mount Aberdeen
Something else to be mesmerized by
Alex tackles the gully
Mark watches
The sweet quartzite walls
The gully in full; it's a surprisingly quick trip to the pass from here
Bare sections of steep ice on the lower part of the "normal" route up Aberdeen
The skiers make good progress up the gully
Mark and Aberdeen
Zoomed in view of Stephen (left) and Alex completing the ascent
Note the switchbacking trail and the trail that goes straight up
We did a combination of switchbacking and straight up
But mostly switchbacking
Me, Alex, and Stephen at the pass
Mark at the pass
The other temptation - scrambling up here towards the summit of Fairview's southwest outlier
Last look at Aberdeen, showing the entirety of the normal route
Alex gets first go, down the 700-800 vertical metres of skiing
Stephen follows
Stephen stops to photograph Alex skiing down
Mark leads the snowshoers down
There's an old friend. Failed twice to reach the summit of the Unnamed between Popes Peak and Collier Peak
Another group of skiers enjoying the long descent
We are enjoying it too - just at a considerably slower pace!
Another old friend - the north summit of Mount Victoria
Everyone joins in - Victoria South, Victoria North, Collier, Unnamed, Popes and Mount Whyte at the far right
No caption needed - one of the most familiar lakes and chateaus in the world
Guess the descent wasn't as effortless as was hinted
The famous Sickle of Victoria South (just right of centre)
Looking up the descent route; it comes down from the left side of the striking fang of rock
Victoria South and a chunk of Mount Lefroy at the left
Back on a beaten trail in beautifully snowy surroundings
Mark admires the other world famous feature of Lake Louise - the quartzite climbing walls at The Back Of The Lake
A short-lived detour onto deep powder at the head of the lake
The End
