Whistler Mountain and “Frankie Peak” 

May 18, 2009

Mountain heights:                2214 m, 2375m
Elevation gain:                    1050 m
Ascent time to Whistler:       3:10
Traverse time to Frankie:    1:10    
Descent time:                       2:15                   

Solo scramble.

(Recently a friend asked me how I name unnamed peaks (unofficially, of course). After explaining my logical, but lacklustre method of using nearby peaks and combining their names, Nicole then asked why I don’t name them after people who are important to me. I had no answer and thought this to be a great idea. Since I often talk about how great my Mum is, I decided I would break from my standard naming methodology).

Craving a small degree of redemption, after a disappointing failed attempt of Bluerock Mountain 24 hours earlier, I drove south, hopefully to escape the terrible weather conditions plaguing the north half of the Canadian Rockies. I arrived in The Castle area to the dismal realization that the Southern Rockies were suffering equally. Not a single mountain was visible, as low-lying clouds blanketed the entire area. Nevertheless, one does not drive 3 hours to just turn around and so I set my sights on lowly Whistler Mountain, with the slim possibility of extending the trip to the few GR’s east and southeast of Whistler.     

The first part of the ascent was easy, but the lack of views quite frustrating. Eventually, many of characteristics that make The Castle, Waterton, and Glacier National Park (Montana) several of the most beautiful places on Earth, started to appear: twisted dead trees, bright green moss, distinctive mountains, and an amazing variety of rocks and rock colours. To enhance the scenery, there was actually a little clearing. In fact, I was to discover, there was no clearing – I had simply ascended above the cloud level – quite astonishing for an elevation barely above 2100 metres. 

With a sudden rush of increased motivation, I hurried to the false and then to the true summit of Whistler Mountain, to enjoy a wonderful cloud-filled panorama. The tops of peaks to the north, west, and south were visible, but a thick wall of clouds blocked everything to the northeast. However, the cloud formations were changing so rapidly I had no idea what to expect and so continuing on seemed like a good idea.

The traverse east to next highpoint was an easy affair, again highlighted by the surrounding peaks suddenly emerging from the clouds and then disappearing again. From the summit, I got a decent look at the next two highpoints, the closest one now having the unofficial title of “Frankie Peak”. The traverse to Frankie was visible only for a few seconds, before clouds consumed the connecting ridge.

After a short break, I started down to the col. This was the most eerie part of the day. I descended into the clouds almost immediately and suddenly visibility was down to several metres. The terrain was snow covered and were it not for the odd rock sticking out of the snow, I would have had no idea if there was solid ground beneath the snow. Throughout the traverse visibility ranged from 50 metres to a few metres. Almost an hour later, I could still see barely 3 metres in front of me. It seemed that the clouds had now consumed the entire mountain and I would spend the rest of the day in a whiteout.

Fortunately, fortune was still on my side and I reached the upper level of the clouds about 50 vertical metres from the summit. An attempt at quickly sprinting to the summit, before the clouds formed above me, lasted for all of 6 seconds and then I just slogged my way to the summit and one of the most unique summit panoramas I’ve ever seen. The cloud layer was absolutely astonishing – a thick and clearly defined blanket of whiteness. Whistler Mountain and the second highpoint were no longer visible. Only peaks rising above 2300 metres could be seen. This included the distinctive form of Castle Peak, Mount Gladstone, and Victoria Peak to the east, a ton of peaks in Glacier National Park to the south, Tombstone, Haig, and Barnaby Ridge to the west, and Darrah and Crowsnest to the northwest. The surreal views, mild temperature and windless conditions made this one of my most rewarding summits to date. And in tribute to the greatest Mum ever, I decided to call the 2375 metre mountain “Frankie Peak”.

Leaving the summit was particularly difficult. One experiences this type of meteorological phenomena very, very infrequently and, like the other two times (Loomis attempt and Middle Kootenay Mountain), I wanted to savour the experience for as long as possible.

I had already decided on an alternate descent route, but looking at it scared the heck out of me. That was because there was nothing to see. The descent slope simply vanished into the clouds. Luckily, a brief moment of clearing revealed that at least the initial part would be easy. That was in fact the case and though at times tedious, the descent route was straightforward.

A totally outstanding day on a decent mountain – Whistler – and a seriously cool mountain – Frankie.   

Typical views at the beginning of the trip

A brief moment of clearing

Barnaby Ridge and a tree

The remains of another tree

Same as above

Looking at the cloud bank to the west

Same as above

Clouds from the east pouring over the ridge

Another view to the west

Same as above; the block dot just right of centre is a bird that was circling in and out of the clouds

Red argillite

Peaks to the east poke above the cloud layer

Looking southeast to the next highpoint (left); Frankie Peak is just right of centre; Castle Peak to the right

The false summit of Frankie Peak (left) and Castle Peak

Unnamed (soon to be "Larry Mountain"), Frankie, and Castle Peak; the connecting ridge is shrouded in clouds

Approaching the second highpoint

The clouds thicken to the west

From the summit of the second highpoint; Whistler Mountain, at the left, is soon to be comsumed by the clouds

Mount Gladstone (left), unnamed, and Frankie

Mount Haig (right)

Gladstone and unnamed

A last look at Whistler before it disappears

Typical visibility on the traverse to Frankie

Approaching the summit of Frankie

Castle Peak

Whistler is now gone

Looking south, down the alternate descent route

Tombstone and Haig to the west

Unnamed and Gladstone

Cheesy ice axe photo

Cheesy self portrait, with too much sunscreen

Victoria Peak is barely visible to the right

A last look west before descending into the clouds

The namesake of "Frankie Peak"; that's Mark on the right; 
not sure who the odd duck on the left is, but I'm sure he grew up to be a 
remarkably intelligent and well-adjusted individual