Mount  Wintour – June 27, 2009

Mountain height:         2700 m
Elevation gain:            900 m
Ascent time:                5:00    
Descent time:              3:10                   

Climbing with Mark, Raff, and Grant.

Mount Wintour may be one of the two runts of the Opal Range (the other being 2575 m Opal Ridge), but it is far from the easiest of summits to reach.

On the heels of a relatively successful reconnaissance up the east side of Wintour, we set out, with Raff and Grant, to hopefully finish the job. The hike around to the east side of the mountain was infinitely more picturesque than that of a week earlier, courtesy of a clear, blue sky. Especially noteworthy were the impressively, vertical limestone slabs of the east face, sunbathed in brilliant sunlight; below these slabs were several layers of different coloured rock, eroded by water into a beautiful curve of sloped land; and to top things off, the green of grass and trees outlining the slope  – outstanding!

Reaching the bottom of the ascent slope, we were treated to another outstanding vista: the majority of peaks of the Opal Range laid out to the southeast, east, and northeast.  As I’ve alluded to frequently in other trip reports, the Opal Range is unquestionably one of the most impressive and visually aesthetic group of mountains in the Canadian Rockies: from the jagged profile of Elpoca Mountain, to the rounded hump of Mount Blane, with the distinctive “Blade” attached to the south end, to the plethora of serrated connecting ridges between each peak, to the steep, grassy meadows eroded into shapely curves – the entire range is a geological marvel.

Back to the task at hand! Grant led the ascent to the ridge at a breakneck speed. All was going extremely well (perhaps too well) and we hoped that once on the ridge, an easy ridgewalk would lead quickly to the summit (“easy going to the summit” - the Green book). The news upon reaching the ridge was good and bad. The good news was that the ridge sported yet another wonderful panorama, featuring peaks around the Kananaskis Lakes; the bad: the ridge to the summit looked as though it might be “easy” for a mountain goat, but not for those of us with only two legs. There appeared to be several knife-edge sections and then a very steep looking wall right below the summit.  Nevertheless, we had climbing gear with us and a look at the narrow ridge was definitely warranted.

Mark and I decided to short-rope right away, while Grant and Raff headed north along the ridge unroped. Though there were many narrow sections and the rock quite loose, the scrambling was never too difficult throughout the first section. Mark and I soon caught up with Grant and Raff, who had negotiated the ridge with surprising speed and ease.

The second section of the ridge looked far more serious and Grant and Raff also opted to short-rope at this point. We also all switched to either approach shoes or rock shoes – good thing we brought them along – the scrambling quickly graduated to 4th and low 5th class, with a fair amount of serious exposure. Grant and Raff quickly made their way to the steep wall barring access to the summit. Thankfully, the wall was not as steep as predicted and the rock excellent. Grant skillfully led us up the face and then to the summit, a short distance away.

Needless to say, the summit view was terrific. The descent went very well and with the appropriate shoes we were all able to downclimb the crux sections. Yet again, Mark and I were impressed watching Grant and Raff negotiate the exposed ridge with ease.

An outstanding trip in one of the best areas of the Canadian Rockies.   


The Kananaskis Lakes, Sarrail (left), Warrior


Taking a break after slogging up to the southwest ridge


Beautiful limestone on the south side of Wintour


Raff ascends the southwest side of the peak, with an unnamed peak behind


The outstanding, colourful scenery on the southeast side


Same as above


A similar photo taken a week before in cloudy conditions


More limestone walls and colourful scenery


Looking east to Mount Jerram; Mount Burney is the non-descript summit at the far left


Approaching the ascent gully (not seen here)


Mount Blane and The Blade to the right


Raff hikes up a snow bank


My turn


Grant (barely visible to the right) leads the ascent to the ridge, Raff follows


Typical terrain


On the ridge looking to the south summit


On the ridge looking to the true summit; Grant leads the way


The view to the southwest


One reason why you wouldn't want to slip down the west side of the mountain


Traversing the ridge, with peaks of the outstanding Opal Range to the right


The latter part of the ridge, where we all short-roped


Grant and Raff  approaching the crux


Grant and Raff above the crux, while I watch


Me approaching the crux, while Grant and Raff help us with the route-finding


Climbing the crux (photo by Raff)


Belaying Mark up the crux (photo by Raff)


Another tricky section before the summit


Mark negotiates the final section of the ridge


Raff waits us for at the summit (photo by Grant)


L to R: Sir Douglas, French, Smith-Dorrien, Prairie Lookout, Murray


Mark and Raff at the summit


Pointing out the scary descent route Kevin and I took down Mount Burney


Grant at the summit


Mark at the bottom on the crux (photo by Raff)


Heading back along the ridge (photo by Raff)


Same as above


Mark on the ridge


Mark ascends a short step on return


Looking back at the ridge (photo by Raff)


Grant and Raff on the ridge


Raff and the summit block


Elpoca Mountain


Grant takes a last look at a ridge that will probably never see us again
          

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