Mount Wilson

April 15, 2009

Mountain height:         3260 m
Elevation gain:            2000 m
Ascent time:              8:30
Descent time:              3:45

Mountaineering with Ferenc.

Admittedly, when Ferenc suggested an attempt of Mount Wilson, I was pretty skeptical about our chances of reaching the summit. The ascent is long, requires about 2 kilometres of elevation gain, and spends a fair amount of time on avalanche slopes. However, Ferenc is extremely knowledgeable about winter travel in the mountains and he predicted that travel conditions would be perfect. He was absolutely correct.

Due to several unfavorable reviews of the long approach via Rampart Creek, we chose the shorter route that basically starts at the Saskatchewan River Crossing, ascending a long gully on the south side of the mountain. The approach to the ascent gully was relatively easy and an early start rewarded us with some great views towards Mount Sarbach. The main ascent gully was one of most beautiful gullies I’ve ever been in – fresh snow covering the spherical remnants of avalanche debris, gorgeous, steep rock walls all around, and the bluest of blue skies. And the snow was bomber - cramponing up it a sheer joy. Atop awaited a magnificent view of the expansive snow and icefields of Wilson. Like Mount Murchison, immediately south, Mount Wilson is an absolutely massive mountain, taking up a good 60 square kilometres of land.

The supposed crux of the trip followed: descending a 40 degree snow slope to the bowl below. Ferenc led the descent. Once again, the snow was stable and supportive and Ferenc provided an easy path for me to follow down. The pristine scenery on the way down and throughout the ascent continued to be a source of sheer amazement. And thank God it was, because the next 4.5 hours were beyond physically strenuous. I would not have had a hope in Hades of making the summit had it not been for the Ferenc’s determination and physical strength and stamina. He broke trail for about 95% of the remaining trip, while I suffered behind him, breathing as heavily as I ever have on any trip. The snowfields were extremely foreshortened and what appeared to be 15 minutes away was typically an hour in travel time.

Given the significant snow cover of the glacier, we opted to go unroped – perhaps a questionable decision, but since we still both here, also a moot point. Unfortunately the weather started to deteriorate as we approached the summit. Below the summit ridge, a huge slab of snow (perhaps 10 m in height) had broken off and slid down the slope – a chilling sight.

The actual crux of the trip occurred just before the summit. Here, the ridge steepened significantly, with an immense drop-off on the right side and a cornice on the left. Staying on the ridge was out of the questions due to the huge cornice and so Ferenc led us across and up the right side. An avalanche earlier on the 40 degree slope would have sent you less than 150 metres down into the bowl; an avalanche at this point could have sent you all the way down to the road – almost 2 full kilometres below. We were both happy that the section was short-lived and the snow again bomber.

A short walk brought us to the summit, 8.5 hours after leaving the car. With clear skies, the Wilson panorama would unquestionably be one of the premier views in the Canadian Rockies. Wilson is surrounded by a multitude of magnificent, statuesque peaks and enormous icefields: visible are the Columbia Icefield and almost every peak on it; the Lyell Icefield, home to the 5 peaks of Mount Lyell, the Freshfield Icefield, fantastic views of Murchison, Cline, Sarbach, White Pyramid and Chephren, and a breath-taking look at Mount Amery. Even with gloomy, overcast skies (a condition that typically elicits a flood of bad language from me), I found the panorama to be immensely rewarding.

Our descent was surprisingly fast, taking less then half our ascent time. Only the 150 m elevation gain back to the top of the ascent gully proved to be strenuous. Not wanting to spend a second more on that slope than was necessary, we powered up it in pretty good time. Ferenc then managed to glissade a good portion of the main gully, while I walked down.

Overall, an outstanding day on a stunning mountain. A big thanks to Ferenc for suggesting the trip and for breaking all that trail.

The south side of Mount Wilson; the ascent gully is just left of centre